Split section wardrobe advice please

[Woodmonkey]

My next project will be a wardrobe for my brother. The alcove it will fit into is big, but the access into the flat is poor so he's asked if it could be made in 3 sections which can then be somehow attached together in situ. (Doesn't want built in as might be moving at some point so would like to be able to take with).
So I was thinking 3 simple boxes, bottom one with drawers, middle for a hanging rail and top one shelves, but he wants it to look like one wardrobe so I need to find a way of putting two doors that will close over the whole lot. Something like this

So my questions are:
a) What would be a good way of attaching a frame to the front of the boxes that I could hang the door from, but would still be easy to disassemble if required? I'm scratching my head how to do it without it blocking the drawers.
b) Best material for construction? I was thinking 18mm mdf (he wants it painted white) Is it possible to get pre painted mdf? Don't really like the look of the melamine faced stuff it looks a bit cheap to me..
c) good way of attaching the three units together (again, easy to take apart when needed)

Cheers in advance for any ideas

 

[nathandavies]

a) use blum 170 deg hinges, zero protrusion, with a gap between the drawers you can fit them in
b) use mfc, more than just white available, it won't look half as cheap as the chipped tired looking painted mdf in 3 months.
c) either screws through the top/bottom depending on which way you may see them, or pocket screws on the outsides

hth

Nathan

 

[Woodmonkey]

Thanks Nathan. Construction-wise, will glue & dominos be sufficient with the mfc or would you use screws as well?

 

[nathandavies]

personally I use dowels and screws, no glue to allow for taking apart, which in your case sounds like you may be doing at some point

 

[Berncarpenter]

Check out my latest post for some design and making ideas , its a similar job to yours.

Cheers Bern

 

[MrYorke]

Would much prefer MDF.......MR (moisture resistant) MDF to be precise.

Painted properly you won't have any problem chipping.

MFC on the other hand is a pain in the a*se to cut unless you have the correct tools to do the job......if not, THAT will defiantly chip!

Agree with using soft-close concealed hinges.

What height is the wardrobe in total as you may struggle to get the door out of a length of MR MDF.

Good luck

 

[RobinBHM]

I think a timber foil mfc such as oak looks good for an interior of a hand painted cabinet.

I tend to make wardrobes with the carcase flush to the inside edge of the front frame. Then battens are screwed to the back of the front frame 18.5mm from the inside face. Make these battens about 21mm leaving the batten 10mm from the edge of the front frame. Finally 9mm mdf side cheeks can be fitted, these could be neatmatch bead n butt if preferred.

I screw the carcase together with confirmat screws.

If you are using adjustable feet, I find these are best fitted to a base board, put this in place and level. Then tilt and slide the robe into place.

For drawers, these can be made in an extra carcase and slide into the wardrobe when its in place. The drawer unit usually has to be narrower to clear concealed hinges. The gap can be filled with another front frame, or 2 vertical battens (setting the carcase sides back by the batten thickness).

If you need to take it upstairs you may find making the whole thing flat pack is easier.

This construction allows a built in to be taken away, replacing side cheeks, plinth and cornice when it goes to its new home in the future.