Spelch & Running A Rebate Through The Moulder

[pollys13]

I must follow through the end of the work piece with some kind of backing piece to prevent any spelch?
That said,I'm thinking the correct way to go is allow an inch longer on the timber, then saw off to correct length removing the spelched bit at the end?
Cheers.

 

[ColeyS1]

If you were moulding end grain then yes. Machining WITH the grain, you'll get hardly no tear/break out.

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[ColeyS1]

Forget to mention- just try using your spindle moulder !!!!!! Seriously, please. Set the height, set the depth, check everything's tight and spins freely, put on roller feed and just put a bit through !

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[pollys13]

If you were moulding end grain then yes. Machining WITH the grain, you'll get hardly no tear/break out.

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Ah, right again Coley

 

[ColeyS1]

This must have been covered in the spindle moulder course you took ? Did they not demonstrate machining an actual length of timber ?

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[custard]

Forget to mention- just try using your spindle moulder !!!!!! Seriously, please. Set the height, set the depth, check everything's tight and spins freely, put on roller feed and just put a bit through !

Coley's right.

You're treating spindle work as some abstract, mental exercise. You've done the right thing and undergone basic training, so now's the time to consolidate that learning with some simple real life machining operations. Get some push sticks and machine a small rebate, then try the same thing with your power feed, repeat that for a groove cut, make a simple sled and cut a rebate and a groove in the end grain, move on to mouldings, tenons, curved work, etc, etc.

It's time to leave the nest polly!

 

[ColeyS1]

Forget to mention- just try using your spindle moulder !!!!!! Seriously, please. Set the height, set the depth, check everything's tight and spins freely, put on roller feed and just put a bit through !

Coley's right.

You're treating spindle work as some abstract, mental exercise. You've done the right thing and undergone basic training, so now's the time to consolidate that learning with some simple real life machining operations. Get some push sticks and machine a small rebate, then try the same thing with your power feed, repeat that for a groove cut, make a simple sled and cut a rebate and a groove in the end grain, move on to mouldings, tenons, curved work, etc, etc.

It's time to leave the nest polly!

Absolutely spot on Custard ! I suggested making a sample single glazed window (like the how to one I posted ) The amount of confidence and things he'd learn from that, would be well worth him spending the money on some softwood. A 2ft square one would be big enough. Trying to make an entire batch of windows for his own house without having a practice run, is just asking for trouble imho.

Coley

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[RobinBHM]

If you are machining window sections, they will mostly be cut to length and tenoned first so when you rebate / profile they will already be to length. Breakout is not an issue with the grain. However a wiggle at the end is, which is prevented by correct fence position, correct power feed set up.

If you machining a moulding that you will cut to length after always make overlength by a foot or so in case of any wiggle.

When making joinery, establish a routine, always mark each piece, always follows same checklist on spindle, always stack you pile of parts with the same orientation. That way when feeding the machine, you are able to just pick up, feed through, put down methodically.

 

[pollys13]

Forget to mention- just try using your spindle moulder !!!!!! Seriously, please. Set the height, set the depth, check everything's tight and spins freely, put on roller feed and just put a bit through !

Coley's right.

You're treating spindle work as some abstract, mental exercise. You've done the right thing and undergone basic training, so now's the time to consolidate that learning with some simple real life machining operations. Get some push sticks and machine a small rebate, then try the same thing with your power feed, repeat that for a groove cut, make a simple sled and cut a rebate and a groove in the end grain, move on to mouldings, tenons, curved work, etc, etc.

It's time to leave the nest polly!

 

[pollys13]

Yes, I mentioned to Coley that I will be having a go, several goes in fact at making up his single glazed window. Also practicing rebates and other stuff.
Though don't rush me please,I'm very slow moving by nature I'm still very new to all this. Things that seem perfectly straightforward and easy to you guys. Can be quite mind boggling for me, to get my head around understanding joinery terms. So is a snails pace at the moment one step at a time.
That said though guys, thanksloads for all the helpful, advice and encouragement and...... no taking the P..S

 

[PAC1]

Yes, I mentioned to Coley that I will be having a go, several goes in fact at making up his single glazed window. Also practicing rebates and other stuff.
Though don't rush me please,I'm very slow moving by nature I'm still very new to all this. Things that seem perfectly straightforward and easy to you guys. Can be quite mind boggling for me, to get my head around understanding joinery terms. So is a snails pace at the moment one step at a time.
That said though guys, thanksloads for all the helpful, advice and encouragement and...... no taking the P..S

The alternative view is that maybe the spindle is not for you. I was trained to use the machine over 3 years and even after that you were rarely let loose on your own without someone overseeing your set up (a good practice for someone to check you really did tighten the fence). Even now, 38 years later, I still have the heebie jeebies using it. You need to be very sure and very respectful of this machine. if you are this unsure, lacking in knowledge, inexperienced and on your own, then I would question the decision to use a spindle.

 

[Chrispy]

I think we should all arrange a meet up at pollys place and watch him switch it on for the first time, a bit of encouragement sort of!