Sorby Spiralling Tool problems

[tekno.mage]

Does anyone know the trick to get a Sorby Spiralling Tool to cut consistant spirals - rather than just putting a vague spiral texture on the wood? I've set the thing up as they suggest in the supplied instructions and am having big problems getting anything sensible out of it! I had better luck with my first ever attempts to use a thread chaser - and at least with chasing I could see what it was that I was doing wrong, but I can't work out what the problem is with this spiralling tool. (BTW the cutter is brand new & sharp, and I am using the spiralling cutter not the texturing one!)

 

[Bodrighy]

Possibly a silly question but have you got it the right way around? If I remember correctly it is beveled on one side only and so only cuts properly the one way. My memory may have got it wrong mind haven't used mine for a while.

Pete.

 

[tekno.mage]

I think it's the right way round - I have it fitted the same way ropund as shown on the Sorby instruction sheet.

 

[Richard Findley]

Hi Kym

I'm no expert with it but as I understand it, you need to adjust the angle of presentation to ensure that in a complete rotation of timber you get the teeth to meet up back at the start... if that makes sense? So its no good if after 1 rotation of the wood if the tooth of the tool doesn't locate back in the groove. By adjusting the angle, it lengthens or shortens the size of the spiral, allowing the adjustment you need. Much easier on small dense spindle stuff than edges of platters, although both are possible with practice. Mick Hanbury's DVD shows it well.

HTH

Richard

 

[loz]

I had trouble with my Crown version, make sure you are bang on centre line, and have the tilt set very slight ( for practice ) -

Held stationary, the cutter should spin ( drop lathe speed down to 500 or less )

Then move left to right, lift and back, left to right,

there are sorby videos on you tube

 

[Spindle]

Hi

I started by using the cutter with about 3mm gaps, I set the incline to the first mark from horizontal and aimed to cut just below centre, (the bevel goes up by the way), once the cut began I altered the angle until the cut sounded 'right'. I didn't try to traverse the tool straight away, I practised cutting stationary. This produces a really short spiral. Once I'd mastered this I moved on to traversing the tool very slowly, I cut the spiral to about half depth on the first pass and finish on the second. I began with oak spindles of about an inch in diameter.

It's quiet easy and satisfying when you get the hang of it.

Regards Mick

 

[Dalboy]

Have a look at these

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NTKLkJorTYE
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gGDtL1LyM_A

Like yourself I am still playing and learning using my tool. Some woods are not very good at taking a spiral.

 

[tekno.mage]

Thanks for all the advice and info everyone - having watched the videos I think I was moving the tool too quickly along the rest compared with the guy in the video - I'll have another go tomorrow

 

[tekno.mage]

An update - I couldn't wait until tomorrow so nipped out to the shed for another go - and yes, by keeping the tool stationary, it worked - nice short spiral cut Then I tried moving the tool along a bit, re-enaging with existing spiral and going again, etc etc - now I have a longer bit of spiral Tomorrow I'll try traversing the tool very slowly as well. It obviously requires a bit of practise to use well, but at least now I get the idea it's possible!

Sorby's instructions (as supplied with the tool) could be a lot more explanatory - and a mention of the link to those videos in the printed instructions wouldn't hurt either!

Being a female with small hands, I think it could do with a longer and heavier handle on the tool to help with holding it firmly as it cuts - I managed to get an interesting chatter pattern on one spiral due to not doing this!

My other slight crirticism is when changing the wheels over - getting the washer that fits behind the cutter in the right place is really fiddly!