Some of my inlaid bowls

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Graigmerched

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Here is a selection of my inlaid bowls. Then I'll stop posting. As a newbie to the forum I just wanted to give a flavour of the variety of things I do. The inserts are all made by hand from Polymer clay or scroll sawn laminate and then set into a mixture of car repair resin, ground rice and childrens powder paint. Please feel free to ask any questions.

Regards

Steve
 

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  • Jewellery box with resin inlay.jpg
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  • flowers and leaves inlaid.jpg
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  • Padauk inlaid bowl with clay feathers.jpg
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Steve,

these are very attractive and interesting.

I know nothing about such inlay techniques - I presume the white speckles are the ground rice and that the inlay is "poured" in hot? How do you get a smooth finish?

How deep is the inlay?

Thanks for the pics

Dave
 
Hi Dave,

The inlay is about 3 sixteenths of an inch deep (Showing my age here). Not poured in hot exactly, the resin is car repair resin you can buy from halfords. You add an accelerator and pour it in the recess before it sets. I then use my scroll saw bed to vibrate it to get rid of any bubbles.

Best regards

Steve
 
Steve

You make it sound much easier than I'm sure it is.

I really like your work. Very much in the Folk Art vein.

Lovely.

Steve
 
Steve,

I very much like the second and fourth - the contrast between the pale wood and the bright colouration I find particularly appealing. Having said that, all of the bowls are excellent. You must have enormous patience and some considerable artistic skill!!

Mike
 
Indeed, some lovely original and inspiring work there Steve. (I gave up on the Halfords resin front, not having much success, obviously I wasnt trying hard enough :oops: )
Welcome to the forum and I hope you share more with us in the future.
 
In reply to Nev. The resin has a very small window in which it is turnable after it has set. If you leave it too long it breaks out and if you turn it too soon it moves away from the inserts and leaves cracks. The right time is just after it reaches room temperature after it has cured. It heats up rapidly as it cures and then cools down again slowly. All depends on the room temp as well. It's damn cold in my shed sometimes. :p
 
Graigmerched":36jqsmsv said:
In reply to Nev. The resin has a very small window in which it is turnable after it has set. If you leave it too long it breaks out and if you turn it too soon it moves away from the inserts and leaves cracks. The right time is just after it reaches room temperature after it has cured. It heats up rapidly as it cures and then cools down again slowly. All depends on the room temp as well. It's damn cold in my shed sometimes. :p


See, this is what the forum is all about, knowledge gleaned from practice and perseverance, shared for the benefit of all those interested. I shall try again in the future.
Thank you Steve. =D>
 
Yes Steve makes some lovely work - he did a demo last year on making the petals he sets into the bowls, the detail in them is incredible!

Can you take a close-up of one to show mate?

All the best

Dan
 
Sportique":mpcv0dxp said:
Steve,

these are very attractive and interesting.

I know nothing about such inlay techniques - I presume the white speckles are the ground rice and that the inlay is "poured" in hot? How do you get a smooth finish?

How deep is the inlay?

Thanks for the pics

Dave

I forgot to answer your question about the smooth finish. I sand down to 240 grit then use the Beale buffing wheel system. That takes out any sanding marks in the resin, which look quite bad even down to 600 grit. I've found that the only way to get it smooth is the buffing wheel system. The white speckles are the ground rice.

Regards

Steve
 

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