Solid wood advice needed

[JustBen]

Hi folks,

I've scanned the forum/Internet and various books that I've got for the answers but can't find the correct ones.

Hopefully some one can help.

I'm looking to build some oak furniture for my house. Bedside cabinets, wardrobe, chest of drawers, shelf unit etc.

I've had a look on oakfurnitureland for some inspiration.

I have 99% of the machinery needed, I have the skill and I have the wood but what I lack is the correct answers to some questions.

I have managed to find a localish hardwood supplier at what I think are fair prices (£32+vat character oak ft3) and that I can choose which pieces I want.
The difference between prime and character is knots, checks and a big price (£32+ vs £48+?) the 2.5m piece I got had 1 knot 3" from the end. Bargain.

So here goes...

1. I noticed on oakfurnitureland and other shops that most of their furniture is made up of small strips glued together rather than 1 large piece. Is this because the wood is more stable when the smaller pieces are jjuggled around in regards to grain growth orientation or is it because its cheaper for them to buy small sized timber and have less offcuts/scrap?

2. When building a shaker style door or panel, does an expansion gap have to be left and can it be glued? If no, would a small strip of foam in the groove stop any rattles and still allow for expansion?

3. Similar to question 1, I saw their legs are make from 4 90deg pieces rather than 1 2" leg, is this for stability of the wood or cheapness.

4. Are there any unwritten rules of things to avoid or 'do not do' when working with all hardwood.

I have fitted many kitchens, doors, windows etc and built many cabinets but never out of hardwood. They were always composite timbers or softwood which is easy to manipulate.

I'm sorry if these questions have really simple answers but I can't seem to find them.

 

[woodbrains]

Hello,

Oak furniture land ( I almost cannot type it without choking) if I remember right, imports its furniture from Vietnam and is made from reclaimed wood. If not this exactly, it will be the same explanation. This is why the furniture is made from finger jointed short bits of wood. Furniture has been made out of solid wood for millennia, so stability is not the reason for short ends.

You do need expansion gaps in frame and panel doors and the panels should not be glued in the frames. They should be made well enough not to rattle without resorting to foam fillers.

Mike.

 

[JustBen]

Thanks for the reply.

I did get the feeling it was down to cost so wasn't too far off.

I didn't really want to use bits so glad it's onto a stability issue.

 

[Jacob]

................
1. I noticed on oakfurnitureland and other shops that most of their furniture is made up of small strips glued together rather than 1 large piece. Is this because the wood is more stable when the smaller pieces are jjuggled around in regards to grain growth orientation or is it because its cheaper for them to buy small sized timber and have less offcuts/scrap?

It's industrially made rubbish using low quality timber

2. When building a shaker style door or panel, does an expansion gap have to be left and can it be glued? If no, would a small strip of foam in the groove stop any rattles and still allow for expansion?

Yes to expansion gap across the grain. Definitely no glue. No they won't rattle if they are just a neat push fit.

3. Similar to question 1, I saw their legs are make from 4 90deg pieces rather than 1 2" leg, is this for stability of the wood or cheapness.

As above

4. Are there any unwritten rules of things to avoid or 'do not do' when working with all hardwood.

Yes loads and loads, too many to mention. :lol:

....
I'm sorry if these questions have really simple answers but I can't seem to find them.

You just have to get stuck in and learn by the mistakes.

 

[Phil Pascoe]

Often a panel was glued using just a dab of glue in the centre of the end grain sides, just to keep the panel central.

 

[Peter Sefton]

Hi
The knots in any timber can be very attractive (if you like them) but they do bring with them problems, swirling grain which can be difficult to machine and hand work, weak if in or near joints, and they cause the timber to move more as the timber has tension around them and they knock the hell out of your tools.

I agree with you that smaller bits of wood glued and formed together are generally more stable than larger planks unless the planks are quarter sawn, but the big boys do it to save money and we would not do this as it’s hard work and not as attractive as full boards.

I would not use foam to stop rattle but spot glue the centres as Phil said you can polish and wax panels prior to glue up to avoid them being glued by mistake as glue squeezes out. More detail in this article http://www.peterseftonfurnitureschool.c ... rticle.pdf

As for things to avoid when working with hardwood, I would say if making furniture try to make sure the timber is dry or it will just move all over the place

I hope this helps Peter

 

[JustBen]

Hi thanks for the comments.

In regards to knots. I don't plan on having any for the reasons you mentioned but was surprised at the sawmill with the grading.

The board I picked up had one small knot 3" from the end. I asked the guy if this was a character board or a prime board.
He said it was character because of the knot.
If he had chopped off the last 3" of the 2.5m board, he could have charged me for prime because that was the only flaw.
Hey ho, that's life.