Sliding mitre saw tear-out

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moosepig

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Hi folks,

Apart from using sacrificial wood behind the cut I can't seem to get my CSMS to produce anything like a clean cross-cut. It's an Evolution Fury 3XL (a great big heavy monster of a thing) and I've fitted it with Evolution's 255mm 40-tooth "wood blade" but still I get a fair amount of splintering at the back of the cut (blade exit). I would normally start by replacing the blade with one that has a lot more teeth - however it has a 1 inch bore and I've struggled to find any replacement blades more suitable than the one already fitted.

I've tried lowering the blade more slowly, sliding through the cut instead of chopping downwards, nothing seems to make much difference. I'm just cutting bog standard construction softwood, 2x4s mostly.

Any ideas?

Cheers,
Ian
 
Hi Ian,
I find cutting slower can reduce tear out. Another option is to use a sacrificial fence setup so it supports the material more closely to the cut.

Cheers
Mark
 
I know of these, and the people concerned just love 'em, Is it likely you have hit some stone and damaged the teeth at all? I know that some evo's are multi material, and very good too, but this may not be you'rs, can you post a pic
of the blade you're using?
I can't find a x cut blade for the fury 255, if it's like the one I have found with "wood" written on it, (link below)
then it's the wrong one, it has rip saw teeth and will do just as you described, tearout and maybe even snatch a little.
Regards Rodders

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/like/12176252 ... ue&ff13=80
 
That's the one, Rodders - and mine is brand new. Gah! It does also snatch a bit occasionally. I'm just starting to delve into the enormous subject that is circular blades, there seem to be a daunting number of different blade types. I only bought this one as it was clearly suitable for the saw, being on the manufacturer's website and all. What sort of blade should I be looking at for the cleanest possible cross-cutting of softwood?

Looks like GrahamF's suggestion of using a reducing bush will be the way to proceed, so long as I can get one the same thickness as an appropriate blade.
 
moosepig":ekk79oca said:
Looks like GrahamF's suggestion of using a reducing bush will be the way to proceed, so long as I can get one the same thickness as an appropriate blade.

Make sure to get one sent with the blade. I dealt with Ben at Scott and Sargeant, good advice and service, prices were also competitive.
 
I know its a bit of faff - but could you not just make a small cut with a saw at the exit point to sever the fibres for critical cuts? or even just using a marking stanley knife?
 
Roughcut":3l3ow9ue said:
I'm surprised the sacrificial timber behind the workpiece isn't solving the problem.
It is, but I'd like not to have to use it. Plus it keeps getting shorter and shorter for some reason :mrgreen: Also I have to make sure my sacrificial timber is flat and straight so I can make repeatably orthogonal cuts, and that often means taking time out to prepare a planed and thicknessed piece only to then turn it into sawdust.

I guess this query comes from watching YouTube videos where people with huge chop saws with million-toothed blades make perfect, clean cuts without anything sacrificial behind the workpiece, and wondering if I could be doing the same.
 
What wood are you cutting? some are more splintery then others.

Pete
 
It's a faff, but you can make a more permanent... er... sacrificial... fence and save your sacrificial bits getting shorter. Your fence may have holes in it for mounting a sacrificial fence already. There's plenty videos on the tube that'll give you the jist of things.
 

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