Sharpening wooden rebate plane

[matt_southward]

I just bought an old brass soled rebate plane off eBay and as its my first I just wanted to double check grinding angles before I refurbish the edge. Do these follow the normal(ish) convention of a main bevel at 30° with a 25° secondary? Or are they treated any differently?

 

[matthewwh]

Once you've got it square and true, it's probably easier to hone it as you would a profiled moulding plane by working the flat face only.

Don't tell anyone though - otherwise they'll all be buying moulding planes and prices will go through the roof.

 

[bugbear]

I just bought an old brass soled rebate plane off eBay and as its my first I just wanted to double check grinding angles before I refurbish the edge. Do these follow the normal(ish) convention of a main bevel at 30° with a 25° secondary? Or are they treated any differently?

Those angles sound fine; more generally, I posted this a while ago;

http://swingleydev.com/archive/get.php? ... t_thread=1

BugBear

 

[Vann]

Do these follow the normal(ish) convention of a main bevel at 30° with a 25° secondary?

Umm. I think the convention is a main bevel at 25° with a 30° secondary #-o, though I'm not sure what's appropriate for a rebate plane. Both Stanley & Record recommended a 35° bevel (no secondary or micro bevels) on their plough plane irons - but I'm not sure that's appropriate for a rebate plane either.

Best wait for an experienced user of wooden rebate planes to tune in. Professor...??!!

Cheers, Vann.

 

[Jacob]

I just bought an old brass soled rebate plane off eBay and as its my first I just wanted to double check grinding angles before I refurbish the edge. Do these follow the normal(ish) convention of a main bevel at 30° with a 25° secondary? Or are they treated any differently?

What you describe isn't normal(ish) at all. All the old rebate planes I've ever seen (and subsequently sharpened) have a rounded bevel with an edge about 30º. They are narrow and are honed only - no need to grind unless they are chipped etc. I'd expect your new plane to be the same unless it has been got at recently be one of the new (misinformed) sharpeners.
I've never seen one with a double bevel, let alone hollow ground. There would be no point at all - just sheer ignorance.

 

[matt_southward]

Sorry, yes of course I meant primary at 25 and secondary at 30! Though I did say that in deference to the majority(? - don't really know if that's true, just a guess - so don't quote me :? ) on here that sharpen in this way - I just wasn't sure if skewed rebates were treated in a different way.

Jacob, you'll be pleased to note that I honed it freehand. I recently started free handing my plane irons with good results and saw no reason not to try a convex bevel on this rebate. I did have to grind it first (and haven't completely flattened the back as it was butchered). But after a run through the oilstones, water stone (I don't have a super fine oil stone) and strop it was already giving half-decent results on some test cuts and so once I've finished flattening the horrible rounded over corners and realigned the skew I'll have a very nice user. The brass sole is nice as it gives a good registration against a knife/chisel wall which helps stop the skew from wandering.

Bugbear, thanks for the link - looks like a useful thread as I have a few of the same issues to contend with.

 

[woodbrains]

I just bought an old brass soled rebate plane off eBay and as its my first I just wanted to double check grinding angles before I refurbish the edge. Do these follow the normal(ish) convention of a main bevel at 30° with a 25° secondary? Or are they treated any differently?

What you describe isn't normal(ish) at all. All the old rebate planes I've ever seen (and subsequently sharpened) have a rounded bevel with an edge about 30º. They are narrow and are honed only - no need to grind unless they are chipped etc. I'd expect your new plane to be the same unless it has been got at recently be one of the new (misinformed) sharpeners.
I've never seen one with a double bevel, let alone hollow ground. There would be no point at all - just sheer ignorance.

Hello,

This is a good point, Jacob! All the used ones I've seen have had irons as dull as hoes and their skew absolutely no where near conforming to the sole. The condition we find old tools is the perfect reference for how they should be continued to be sharpened and maintained. We sharpen and fettle them purely out of ignorance and an insane desire to make them functional. Thank The Lord for your good sense preventing us from erring towards betterment.

Mike.

 

[Jacob]

The condition of old tools may well be a good reference as to how they should be treated as the previous owner might have been a competent tool user - especially if a tool is worn and shows signs of a lot of use. It may be an arrogant mistake to assume that the previous owner was an silly person and that you know better.

 

[woodbrains]

The condition of old tools may well be a good reference as to how they should be treated as the previous owner might have been a competent tool user - especially if a tool is worn and shows signs of a lot of use. It may be an arrogant mistake to assume that the previous owner was an silly person and you know better.

Hello,

I know a plane with a pitted, dull iron, not conforming to the sole is absolutely useless. I make them work by sharpening them and fixing them and funnily enough, I am a craftsman. Go figure.

Mike.

 

[Jacob]

You have to use your brain woodbrain. Yes some tools are wrecked but some tools, even if pitted with rust since last used, may have been in the hands of a competent person, even one as competent as yourself woodbrain, if such a thing were possible. :lol: