Shallow coping saw availability?

[ColeyS1]

Thanks for the extra info chaps [WINKING FACE]

Might be worth biting the bullet?

To be honest I'm now not sure if it'd be much improvement. I think the bendy blade help disguise the issue of not having much travel. I reckon a blade twice as long with coarser teeth would definitely make it a better sawing experience. I've seen bow saws alot, just never realised how good they might be for certain jobs.

Coley

 

[AndyT]

It's been discussed before (as BB said) but an option which gets you a nice saw for very litle work is to find an old unloved small turning saw and shorten or replace the central bar so it's the right size for standard coping saw blades:

 

[Trafalgar]

Coley, those windows really strike a chord with me. Damned nice.

 

[matthewwh]

I couldn't agree more, beautiful work!

I can see where you're coming from, it would be damned convenient to be able to cut really thick wood efficiently with a coping saw. I'll talk it through with the blade manufacturers and see what they think.

 

[ColeyS1]

I couldn't agree more, beautiful work!

I can see where you're coming from, it would be damned convenient to be able to cut really thick wood efficiently with a coping saw. I'll talk it through with the blade manufacturers and see what they think.

Matthew, I was looking on your website last night looking for a bow/turn saw and blades. Is it something you don't sell?
I shouldn't be, but I'm always a little wary ordering stuff from outside the U.K.


Coley

 

[ColeyS1]

Just remembered, I did spot that you sell 10tpi pegas blades. I've currently only got 14tpi, every little help (I couldn't find 10 tpi on your ebay)

Coley

 

[matthewwh]

Hi Coley,

I am currently between bowsaw suppliers, we have a few bits here but nothing with a really narrow web that would meet this requirement.

I have however had a chat with the guys at Pegas and through their prototyping process they may be able to make me a small run of very aggressive coping saw blades, slightly shorter than standard so they will be a pig to fit (but possible) to give maximum tension.

As the other guys have said, it's outside the realms of what you would normally do with a coping saw. But it's fun to rise to the challenge and if we don't push the boundaries we will never know what is possible.

10tpi blades are available here: http://www.workshopheaven.com/tools/Pegas_Coping_Saw_Blades.html

 

[ColeyS1]

Thanks for researching it Matthew. I switched from 14tpi Bahco blades to 14tpi eclipse blades and the difference in cutting was quite astounding- I wouldn't recommend Bahco blades to anyone as they just don't hold an edge, at all !!!
I think your 10tpi pegas blades would be as good as I could expect from a coping saw.The tension and extra length could only be had from a bow saw which I think would be where I'd see the most difference.


Coley

 

[MIGNAL]

Alternately make yourself a mini bowsaw, similar to the one that Andy has shown. It doesn't have to be fancy. You can also use a threaded bar and wingnut to provide the tension. I've made a couple but they have been a 12" version and a much larger frame type saw. One day I'll get around to making one that is coping saw sized. I should have done it years ago, especially considering that I have the same problem with standard metal coping saws not tensioning the blade sufficiently.

 

[ColeyS1]

Quick update. Thanks to Mignal for kindly suggesting a suitable bow saw via pm, I'm now the proud owner of one ! Will update with pics later. I've also acquired some really 'tuff' bowsaw blades which I need to open up and have a goosey at tomorrow. I'm trying to keep calm and it's probably a bit sad but I'm really excited !!!!! I feel the coping saw may get used a lot less now :lol:

Coley

 

[rafezetter]

On the hunt for a decent stiff coping saw I recently bought one from workshop heaven.
I'm cutting 3 inch oak with it but even so the thing still bends like a goodun.

My quick fix us to cut a piece of wood in between.

It's a heck of alot better ! Other than knew concepts offering is there any other decent coping saws that don't bend as much to cause the blade to be a floppy banana ? I realise I'm asking alot cutting timber this thick but the wooden spreader has helped massively. The blade can actually be plucked now.
A coping saw with only 3 inchs depth of cut would help massively, the only thing I can find that closely resembles what I'm after is very fine jewellers saws.

Cheers

Coley

Sent from my SM-G900F using Tapatalk

I had noticed the same problem myself just the other day cutting a 45 bevel into a chopped slot in MDF, and I had the same thought, using a stiffener bar - glad to see it will work as I hope.

Never even thought of turning the blade around, seems so obvious now

 

[ColeyS1]

I've been cutting glazing bars in most of the day. That little piece of wood creates so much tension! I must get the bowsaw cutting and do a proper write up. The one tuffsaw blade I tried sliced through 85mm oak like it was softwood !!!

Coley

 

[furnace]

This is my solution. Easy to adjust/remove and gets great tension. £2 on eBay. The ends were originally eyes and I cut them in half to make the "U" shape

 

[ColeyS1]

This is my solution. Easy to adjust/remove and gets great tension. £2 on eBay. The ends were originally eyes and I cut them in half to make the "U" shape
View attachment 20160517View attachment 20160517

Looks like a smart solution ! Do you reckon you'll ever go back to a wibbly wobbly saw without tensioner? Out of curiosity if you pushed it right up to the corners (so you can cut really deep ) does it tension the blade enough?


Coley

 

[furnace]

I'll try tomorrow. I use it mostly for cutting the bulk of the waste between dovetails so don't need much depth. I will report back after further testing!

 

[n0legs]

This is my solution. Easy to adjust/remove and gets great tension. £2 on eBay. The ends were originally eyes and I cut them in half to make the "U" shape
View attachment 20160517View attachment 20160517

That's a bloody good idea =D>

 

[furnace]

I tested it at the upper edge of the frame (at the beginning of the bend) and it works just as well. Normally I only tighten the turnbuckle by hand, but in the test I popped a screwdriver through it to add leverage and I overdid it a bit and the pin in the (Eclipse) coping blade fractured! I never use the saw without the turnbuckle: it's just too wibbly.

This is the item I bought:

www.ebay.co.uk/itm/251004485041?

M