Shallow coping saw availability?

[ColeyS1]

On the hunt for a decent stiff coping saw I recently bought one from workshop heaven.
I'm cutting 3 inch oak with it but even so the thing still bends like a goodun.

My quick fix us to cut a piece of wood in between.

It's a heck of alot better ! Other than knew concepts offering is there any other decent coping saws that don't bend as much to cause the blade to be a floppy banana ? I realise I'm asking alot cutting timber this thick but the wooden spreader has helped massively. The blade can actually be plucked now.
A coping saw with only 3 inchs depth of cut would help massively, the only thing I can find that closely resembles what I'm after is very fine jewellers saws.

Cheers

Coley

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[Trafalgar]

Not sure what you're making but it looks like a cut for a backed saw of some sort - gent's, dovetail, or tenon. Is there a curve being cut that is obscured by the angle of the photo?

When cutting thick stock with a coping saw arrange the blade to cut on the pull stroke and it will flex a lot less -- almost none at all if you let the saw cut at the rate it wants to cut.

That said, good workaround.

 

[bugbear]

...there any other decent coping saws that don't bend as much to cause the blade to be a floppy banana ? I realise I'm asking a lot cutting timber this thick but the wooden spreader has helped massively. The blade can actually be plucked now.
A coping saw with only 3 inchs depth of cut would help massively, the only thing I can find that closely resembles what I'm after is very fine jewellers saws.

Someone has posted a design of a small frame saw, sized to suit coping saw blades, which generates awesome tension; I'll search for it in a mo'.

Edit; here it is;

post594765.html?hilit=%20loads%20of%20tension%20on%20#p594765

BugBear

 

[ColeyS1]

It's just the ends of jambs for windows. I've done the mitre cut on the chopsaw it's just the last bit that needs cutting.
In hindsight probably getting a scriber made for the tenoner would have been quicker, but I kinda enjoy a little bit of chiselling and chopping

Think last time I tried morticing out the bulk, sawing is much quicker though.
I'll try your switching the blade around on the next joint.

Cheers
Coley

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[Carl P]

When cutting thick stock with a coping saw arrange the blade to cut on the pull stroke and it will flex a lot less -- almost none at all if you let the saw cut at the rate it wants to cut.

Thanks for that, the penny finally dropped as to why it's better on the pull, it's anchored to the handle so less flex, excellent. Incidentally
I'm sure there's a rather tenuous actress and the bishop joke in there somewhere if I could be bothered to think it through,

Cheerio,

Carl

 

[Cheshirechappie]

A job for a bow saw rather than a coping saw, perhaps? Bigger teeth, longer cutting stroke....

Still, as in most real life woodworking, you use what you have; and the frame stiffener lash-up is a cracking piece of lateral thinking!

 

[Trafalgar]

Beautiful work Coley.

 

[ColeyS1]

A job for a bow saw rather than a coping saw, perhaps? Bigger teeth, longer cutting stroke....

Still, as in most real life woodworking, you use what you have; and the frame stiffener lash-up is a cracking piece of lateral thinking!

I'll have to Google that- I think I know what you mean, just not 100%

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[Cheshirechappie]

A job for a bow saw rather than a coping saw, perhaps? Bigger teeth, longer cutting stroke....

Still, as in most real life woodworking, you use what you have; and the frame stiffener lash-up is a cracking piece of lateral thinking!

I'll have to Google that- I think I know what you mean, just not 100%

Sent from my SM-G900F using Tapatalk

The wooden H-frame jobbies with the twisted string and tensioner; modern ones are usually about 12" blade length, though vintage ones crop up at all sorts of odd lengths. They look a bit ungainly, but they're actually surprisingly light and easy to use.

Flinn's do one - though the price is a bit eye-watering - http://www.flinn-garlick-saws.co.uk/aca ... G-SAW.html - or there's always the good old 'bay of course!

 

[ColeyS1]

Beautiful work Coley.

Thanks, I do like hand tools instead of relying 100% on machines.
Here's a few pics of the finished batch that got fitted last year- I'm making the remainder now.

I thought I'd struck gold a while back on the quest for a non flexing coping saw

Picked up that bad boy at the bootsale, only to find i could only get junior hacksaw blades to fit. It's a beast though and doesn't flex even when I really try bending it !

Cheers

Coley

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[bugbear]

The wooden H-frame jobbies with the twisted string and tensioner; modern ones are usually about 12" blade length, though vintage ones crop up at all sorts of odd lengths. They look a bit ungainly, but they're actually surprisingly light and easy to use.

Flinn's do one - though the price is a bit eye-watering - http://www.flinn-garlick-saws.co.uk/aca ... G-SAW.html - or there's always the good old 'bay of course!

Some helpful person, long ago, fulfilled the need, and posted a proper plan:

http://www.woodworkinfo.site88.net/bowsaw.html

BugBear

 

[ColeyS1]

Thanks for the extra info guy's, it certainly looks much better suited to that type of job.
Must admit my only concern is the blades. Hopefully they might be all the same length and readily available.
Thanks

Coley

 

[MattRoberts]

Hefty price, but apparently this is the nuts http://www.workshopheaven.com/tools/Kne ... oCejXw_wcB

 

[bugbear]

Thanks for the extra info guy's, it certainly looks much better suited to that type of job.
Must admit my only concern is the blades. Hopefully they might be all the same length and readily available.
Thanks

Coley

Just use bandsaw blade, cut to length, and drill a hole in each end.

Either old ones from a mate, or splash the cash and buy a roll for a lifetime supply.

BugBear

 

[MIGNAL]

Somewhere I have a couple of blades for those turn/bow saws. What's slightly unusual about them is that they aren't much deeper than a coping saw blade but they fit my turn saw, so 12" from pin to pin. They can't be more than 1/8 th depth. My other blades are more like a 1/4". I'm not sure where I bought the 1/8th blades but Fine Tools in Germany springs to mind.

 

[ColeyS1]

Thanks for the extra info guy's, it certainly looks much better suited to that type of job.
Must admit my only concern is the blades. Hopefully they might be all the same length and readily available.
Thanks

Coley

Just use bandsaw blade, cut to length, and drill a hole in each end.

Either old ones from a mate, or splash the cash and buy a roll for a lifetime supply.

BugBear

That's a good idea but I think it might be too wide.Smallest I've seen is 1/4 inch which wouldn't turn quick enough.

Coley

 

[ColeyS1]

Somewhere I have a couple of blades for those turn/bow saws. What's slightly unusual about them is that they aren't much deeper than a coping saw blade but they fit my turn saw, so 12" from pin to pin. They can't be more than 1/8 th depth. My other blades are more like a 1/4". I'm not sure where I bought the 1/8th blades but Fine Tools in Germany springs to mind.

I spent a good time researching last night and found this
https://www.toolsforworkingwood.com/sto ... T-BOW12.XX
It mentions the narrow blades you speak of. I also notice they sell a 10tpi blade - that along with correct tension and a longer stroke I think would be superb.Now I just need to decide whether to order parts to make one or just buy one. The part about breaking a new bow saw by over tightening definitely got my attention !
Cheers

Coley

 

[MIGNAL]

Yes, they are the blades. Same here:

http://www.fine-tools.com/gramercy-tools-bow-saw.html

 

[bugbear]

. The part about breaking a new bow saw by over tightening definitely got my attention !

If you want maximum tension, just use stronger stock in the saw - they're commonly made very light, but they don't have to be.

BugBear

 

[AJB Temple]

I fiddled around with different coping saws for years (when I was making more musical instruments) and got frustrated with how difficult it is to get accurate clean cuts in thickish hardwoods. I eventually bit the bullet and bought a Knew concepts saw and high quality blades. I know they are quite expensive, but they are properly rigid and handle much better than I expected. I have used it for cutting very fine abalone inlay shapes at one end of the scale (though I also use an ancient jewellers metalworking saw sometimes) as well as 25mm neck headstock patterns (which I could do on my bandsaw, but don't as a rule) as it is not worth the hassle of a blade change. Might be worth biting the bullet?