Seasoning Holly

[jimi43]

No...not Christmas....

I have some HUGE holly trees in the garden forming the southerly defences against the thieving g*ts but one or two are getting a tad out of hand and need chopping.

I guess they are quite a few inches in the stem and I was reading how holly makes an excellent carving wood and I need some for guitar inlay....so...guys...

What do I do to dry/season this stuff?

I hear tales that you have to leave the bark on for some reason?

Any help would be gratefully received before I burn the giant!

Jim

 

[hanser]

some info https://www.ukworkshop.co.uk/forums/holl ... ight=holly

 

[jimi43]

Cheers mate...I never thought of searching this forum for other references...much appreciated...I won't be so lazy in future! :wink:

I have read that washing out some woods it a great pre-seasoning trick...in fast running water...unfortunately there is no suitable stream nearby...

Spalting...now that is interesting...another thing to Google!!

Any other tips not mentioned on that previous thread would be gratefully appreciated..

Cheers guys

Jim

 

[Paul.J]

Hello Jim.
I'm no expert Jim but i've been trying different drying methods out with some Holly logs i have had,but for turning purposes,so not sure if it would be of any help to you if you want to plank it.
I know it is very difficult to season without splits but i have now left some logs outside for about eightenn months,stood on end and they have spalted,which looks lovely when turned,and which also takes some of the tension out the wood.
But i would also like to season some to keep the lovely natural whiteish colour the Holly has,so have been trying some part turned pieces with some fresh Holly that was cut down a few weeks ago.
So as i say it is all just trial and error with it at the moment.

 

[jimi43]

I heard that part turning was one way of working it....when fresh...

I don't think I will be turning any...although it is a possibility...I want to string it out to inlay strips...probably max 1/2" wide and deep...absolute max...and then thinner pieces.

Spalding sounds fun..I think I will do that.

Cheers mate

Jim

 

[wills-mill]

If you halved the stems with a bandsaw and sealed the ends you'd have a much better chance of lessening drying cracks and splits in the timber.

 

[klooker]

You want to slow the drying process.

One trick is to put it in a plastic bag. After a couple of days, the inside of the bag will be wet with condensation. Remove from bag, turn the bag inside out (so the wet side is out) then put the piece back in the bag.

Repeat.

As the wood dries, it will take longer for the bag to become wet.

 

[matthewwh]

If you do end up burning any of it, it's useful to know that holly, like ash, can be burned green.

 

[jimi43]

Some great ideas here chaps!

I will let you know how I get on...I am going to try all of the suggestions...

Excellent!

Jim

 

[markymark12]

Only way to plank to end up with white timber, is to cut down when the sap is at its lowest and plank it and then find someone with a vacuum kiln the next day, only way, maybe the day after the day :wink: . Like everyone else in the real world however i have dried it to a reasonable white, but no perfect by planking as above, sap low,and end rearing straight away. Try anything over 1.5" and you are in rocking horse droppings country.
Good luck

 

[Bean]

Holly is wonderful to carve green, one of my favorites for spoons. But it can crack and split easily

 

[jimi43]

AH...perhaps I should clarify.

I don't need anything like 1.5" at all and nothing that could be termed.."planks".

I think my first priority is white stringing...1/2" would be the absolute maximum for that.

Carving-wise....I am talking more about 2D than 3D...thicker yes but as more of a flat carving.

Part carve green then wait...is one way I could perhaps go.

Jim