Scribing Technique

UKworkshop.co.uk

Help Support UKworkshop.co.uk:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

jedmc571

Established Member
Joined
28 Mar 2005
Messages
404
Reaction score
0
Location
Chester
Hello,

I'm after some advice on the best way to tackle a job fittng some skirtinng board covers.

My curret skirting sits below a floated enginered floor (just over 20mm) it's an open plan room so everything is the same.
The gap between the flooring and the skirting (which would normally be covered with quarter round) is at the worst point, 35mm :shock: To compensate for this, the skirting has been built out at the bottom with two trim pieces and looks quite nice, but it's a little old fashioned looking, and miles away from the contemporary look I'm after.

I'm afraid i'm no good with drawings, and I'm trying to organise putting pics on (been a long time since I've done anything like that) so I'll try and expain my quandry.

I intend to box it in, so it's litterally an "L" shape covering it up, I've already cut all my 12mm MDF to size, which is 100mm high x 65mm deep.
What I'm debating is........do I fit it a piece at a time, and scribe it? or glue the two pieces together as a full 90 degree trim, and then scribe both?

I'll try and get some pics up, as it probably won't make much sense here? :lol: but I can't do it till tomorrow.

Hope someone can advise?

Jed.
 

Attachments

  • 20130409_145517.jpg
    20130409_145517.jpg
    173.7 KB
  • 20130409_145745.jpg
    20130409_145745.jpg
    141.1 KB
I would fit the skirting up in two sections, as in upright section scribed and fitted first and then scribe and fit the top section
Trying to scribe in to the floor and the wall at the same time is going to drive you round the twist !

Good luck
 
I think I would do it in two steps too. First scribe the bottom edge of the vertical against the floor and fix in place by screwing or glueing to the existing skirting. Then sit the horizontal part on top of the vertical, scribe the back edge to the wall and glue down onto the vertical part. The trim off the remaining overlap at the front of the horizontal part, using a plane or a bearing guided router cutter to leave the front corner spot on. I'm hoping you left some spare width in the horizontal so that it will need to be trimmed back.
 
Thanks for the replies.

I just need some reassurance on this. I watch scribing on tv and it looks so impressive, and then I balls it up! I like the idea of trimming it back. I left some meat in both pieces to scribe, I have the little Bosch palm router and it's just small enough to do it.

A couple more things........which router bit? Downshear bit with bearing sound right? Rather than a straight bit?
And just confirm my technique.........piece on the floor, spirit level on top, shim up low end till level, scribe to the largest gap (plus my extra that I left on) Sound ok?
Would you suggest doing all the vertical first and then all the tops?

Any tips LOL

Many thanks

Jed
 
If I've understood it correctly - I'd plant on a board the height of the skirting, packed out enough to cover the gaps, then plant a 'lid' on this, but projecting over the new skirting with a half round, rather like a stair tread and riser. It'd look more purposeful than merely boxing it in, which always looks like a bodge. The projection also covers the join.
These would both have to be scribed as necessary, but with a new floor I wouldn't expect there to be much to adjust. I wouldn't use mdf - normal redwood would be much easier and also a bit bendy and could save on scribing. Easier to scribe too.

PS You don't need a spirit level for scribing. The idea is to get it to line up visibly with the floor and/or wall, whether or not these are straight and level. The appearance of straightness, good fit, etc is what you are after, not actual spirit level accuracy.
And I really can't imagine how you would scribe with a router. I'd use axe and block plane. Surform plane and rasps could be good alternatives
 
As an alternative to cover the expansion gap, why not use some of the 'flat' edging strips. Looks smart IMO.
 

Attachments

  • Untitled.jpg
    Untitled.jpg
    84.7 KB
I had considered that "F" moulding, but I need to cover up the hideous old skirting :lol:

Cheers

Jed
 
FrikkinDust":9z2hmx00 said:
As an alternative to cover the expansion gap, why not use some of the 'flat' edging strips. Looks smart IMO.

dumb question, but what do i need to search for to find this product online?
 
marcros":139yvi2d said:
FrikkinDust":139yvi2d said:
As an alternative to cover the expansion gap, why not use some of the 'flat' edging strips. Looks smart IMO.

dumb question, but what do i need to search for to find this product online?

Not dumb, I googled for a while before finding it! I literally searched for 'flat' floor edging trim.
 
I sat down in an empty dining room on Friday evening, I was wheighing up the job ahead, and the more I looked at it, the more I realised I was creating work. I went to bed and lay thinking about.

Saturday morning, I ripped the lot off, old skirting, and architrave LOL I realised it would be less hassle, and imposing to just do a straight skifrting board. 2 sheets of 18mm MDF and a TS55 will sort that.

I started the first wall with hammer and chisel..........to much effort...........I broke out the Fein Multimaster and a magnet, the magnet finds the nails, and I cut round them and they pop straight off! They were fixed with cut clasp nails..........not easy to remove, but easy to sink home when everythings gone.

Moral of the story?

Keep it simple, and buy a Muntimaster, they're frikin great!

Thanks for the input everyone, pasrticularly Jason Ballamy, who dropped me some great advice by PM

Cheers

Jed
 
Not started yet Mick :D

Ordering materials tomorrow for the "big ripdown" over the weekend, I'm not promising pics by then, but I will do when it's done.

Cheers

Jed
 
Back
Top