Screws for oak, outside

UKworkshop.co.uk

Help Support UKworkshop.co.uk:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

pe2dave

Established Member
Joined
2 Oct 2007
Messages
2,191
Reaction score
727
Location
Peterborough, Cambs, UK
I'd normally choose brass, drive a steel first and then put in the brass.
Have the modern screws caught up yet please?

I note comments on scewfix about stainless ones snapping off?

Advice please?

Dave
 
I used some cheap stainless ones on an oak garden chair I made - probably from Screwfix but could have been from Toolstation.

They were not very nice - not as strong as ordinary steel, and a lot less than Spax or similar. Some did break if the pilot hole was not deep enough, or if I tried to power drive them in too fast. I am sure better ones must be available.

I think they are ok now they are in though, and probably as strong or a bit stronger than brass.

Also, beware of brass plated steel screws - they will definitely rust!
 
AndyT":pqwstis4 said:
I used some cheap stainless ones on an oak garden chair I made - probably from Screwfix but could have been from Toolstation.

They were not very nice - not as strong as ordinary steel, and a lot less than Spax or similar. Some did break if the pilot hole was not deep enough, or if I tried to power drive them in too fast. I am sure better ones must be available.

I think they are ok now they are in though, and probably as strong or a bit stronger than brass.

Also, beware of brass plated steel screws - they will definitely rust!

Thanks Andy. I'm fearing trying to drill out a screw in oak.
Screwfix do Spax. Axminster have some horribly expensive stainless ones.
I'm after about 45mm, which are expensive at 22 per box of 200.

Kreg do stainless too, but not countersunk. No idea what quality they are.

I guess due care with the pre-drilling is the key.

Dave
 
Modern steel woodscrews are hardened, stainless and brass are not. This is why people complain about them snapping its just that we have become used to driving modern screws with powertools, a traditional slotted steel screw would also snap at around the same loadings as stainless.

If you want to use stainless then pilot and countersink.

Jason
 
The Kreg ones are stainless and are excellent quality. I use their system and if any thing you mustn't be over zealous power driving in materials such as plywood. Not used them in oak though, that stuff has done in some expensive tools in its time :)
 
Project now complete. Stainless used. Driven in with a power driver into pre-drilled holes. No loss of screws, no real problems at all!
Only downside was the cost of the stainless screws!

Should be good for a long time.

Dave
 
I concur with that, lots of outside work with oak and stainless fixings. They can be a bit brittle, however the only time I have had a problem is when the pilot hole is too small.

No problem with Screwfix stainless screws coupled with the right sized pilot hole. When driving long screws into outside work, where finish is not a major issue, a few drops of oil to lubricate works well too. Screwfix 150cm stainless screws into oak raised beds ... no problem

hth
 
Make sure you use Stainless Steel screwdriver bits with Stainless screws or your get microscopic particles off the steel ones that will rust in the head
:D
 
chippymart":1eyykzpu said:
Make sure you use Stainless Steel screwdriver bits with Stainless screws or your get microscopic particles off the steel ones that will rust in the head
:D


Heck that's a bit subtle! No I didn't. Have you evidence of this from experience? Leaving
bits of my screwdriver bit around seems a bit over zelous ?

Dave
 
Yep have seen rusty heads where people haven't used the correct bit. Surprising also the amount of people who use the wrong type of fixings into hardwoods outside and now I see everywhere stains running down the oak.
 

Latest posts

Back
Top