kinsella
Established Member
Colleagues
I received a Startrite saw a while back and it came with at least 20 blades. All of which we dull and needed resharpening. Up until now I've sharpened my saw blades by hand using a diamond file. Obviously a little inaccurate, and I also didn't fancy doing circa 20 blades by hand.
I decided to build my own jig after watching Matthias Wandel’s version (click link to see his version https://youtu.be/5L3XekKIEd8) I noticed at the end of his video he mentions that his jig is unable to do the back of the teeth. As some of my blades are older solid versions and don’t use carbide, I would need my jig to be able to be adjusted to do the back of the teeth.
The following images are work in progress so far. Most of the build is done. I now need to add stops to register the teeth into the same place for each and every tooth. That is next week’s problem.
The only item i had to purchase was the diamond disk from Screwfix. I had everything else. The mini grinder is old and needed replacing anyway. I made a base from pine to fix the grinder to. Then using two bolts fixed this base to a ply base. One of the bolts acts as a pivot and the second then rotates and locks the unit in place. I will weld a round bar to the nut to act as a level next week. You can see the nut I'm referring to just under the middle of grinder. By allowing the grinder unit to move allows me to grind the front or the back of the teeth by simple rotating it on its pivot. The bolts are M10 and sturdy enough to hold it tight. The slide to mound the blade is made from cutting strips of wood at 72 deg and then fixing them loosely together and then fixing them alternatively to the top or bottom. The top section of ply then gets a dowel matching the bore of the blade and is simply screwed to the sliding piece of ply so that the tooth is parallel to the blade.
Note: Carbide dust is not good for you so if you copy this, you will need to make sure you use a mask and have plenty of ventilation.
I received a Startrite saw a while back and it came with at least 20 blades. All of which we dull and needed resharpening. Up until now I've sharpened my saw blades by hand using a diamond file. Obviously a little inaccurate, and I also didn't fancy doing circa 20 blades by hand.
I decided to build my own jig after watching Matthias Wandel’s version (click link to see his version https://youtu.be/5L3XekKIEd8) I noticed at the end of his video he mentions that his jig is unable to do the back of the teeth. As some of my blades are older solid versions and don’t use carbide, I would need my jig to be able to be adjusted to do the back of the teeth.
The following images are work in progress so far. Most of the build is done. I now need to add stops to register the teeth into the same place for each and every tooth. That is next week’s problem.
The only item i had to purchase was the diamond disk from Screwfix. I had everything else. The mini grinder is old and needed replacing anyway. I made a base from pine to fix the grinder to. Then using two bolts fixed this base to a ply base. One of the bolts acts as a pivot and the second then rotates and locks the unit in place. I will weld a round bar to the nut to act as a level next week. You can see the nut I'm referring to just under the middle of grinder. By allowing the grinder unit to move allows me to grind the front or the back of the teeth by simple rotating it on its pivot. The bolts are M10 and sturdy enough to hold it tight. The slide to mound the blade is made from cutting strips of wood at 72 deg and then fixing them loosely together and then fixing them alternatively to the top or bottom. The top section of ply then gets a dowel matching the bore of the blade and is simply screwed to the sliding piece of ply so that the tooth is parallel to the blade.
Note: Carbide dust is not good for you so if you copy this, you will need to make sure you use a mask and have plenty of ventilation.
