Sash cramps

[Lofty]

Hi,

I have been lurking for a long time and never feel I have anything to contribute but I do find it very interesting and informative. I have a question that I hope someone may be able to answer.
I picked up some Record sash cramps at Corby during the week. They are the type with a flat bar as opposed to I or T section. Unfortunately the movable head (the one you locate with a bolt) is missing. I originally thought I could make one good one out of two by using the head driven by the screw. Now I am thinking it is a shame to do that if I could either buy some of the proper parts or make something that would do the job. Has anyone any ideas?

By the way I bought a load of table tops to make into a bench inspired by Schultzy's post. Amazingly enough, when I went to collect the first lot I met him there. How about that for a coincidence! I have just finished gluing up the last batch and its looking god (and very heavy!)

Mike

 

[Paul Chapman]

Irwin/Record still make those sash cramps, so you could probably get the moveable head as a spare part. Worth contacting the company.

Cheers :wink:

Paul

 

[wizer]

I'm not sure why you couldn't make them? Should be pretty simple and a good way to use up some hardwood scraps. Make sense to me.

 

[Lofty]

Thanks for the quick response.

Paul, yes I should have thought of that. I have sent them an e-mail.

Wizer, I wondered myself if wooden ones would be any good. I might have a go. I am just a bit concerned wood will not be strong enough.

Mike

 

[Chris Knight]

Lofty,
Wizer's idea is a good one, a bit of hard wood of reasonable size should be plenty strong enough. I'd make them a bit bigger than the metal ones having regard to where the principal stresses on the part will act - mainly in the vicinity of the rod through the block/rail. Oak, beech, maple etc would all be fine for it.

 

[Woodcrafts]

Some years ago I needed a couple of replacement heads. Record(Irwin) didn't supply direct but my local tool shop could get them; at the time they had an offer on 18" cramps which worked out far cheaper than just replacing the heads. I bought several of the 18" cramps which have proved to be an extremely useful size but no longer seem to be available.
I have also made replacements from timber - would suggest using birch ply (15 or 18mm)for the "cheeks" to avoid the risk of splitting.

 

[wizer]

Yes I guess ply makes sense. The minor added bonus is that wood is kinder to wood than metal, so no need for a timber spacer.

 

[joiner_sim]

This isn't exactly what you're after, but with a little modification could be useful I suppose.

http://www.machinemart.co.uk/shop/produ ... amps-vices

 

[Shultzy]

Just a question - I have a set of cramp heads and will be making the bars out of beech. The thickness has to be 1", but whats the recommended depth for strength and how long should I make them to be most useful without being overly long.

 

[joiner_sim]

On my link it says 25x38mm.

I wouldn't know about the length. I would have thought around about a metre?

 

[wizer]

I have a set of cramp heads and will be making the bars out of beech.

:idea: :idea: :idea:

Now there's an idea. Thanks Shultzy

 

[Paul Chapman]

Just a question - I have a set of cramp heads and will be making the bars out of beech. The thickness has to be 1", but whats the recommended depth for strength and how long should I make them to be most useful without being overly long.

Hi Shultzy,

Here are some of mine

Some of the bars are in soft wood some in hard wood. A couple of inches deep would do. Do several in different lengths.

All sash cramps bend a little. However, if you shape the cramping blocks, as in the picture above, the pressure is directed through the centre of the workpiece, making sure that the joints are cramped up square.

Hope this helps.

Cheers :wink:

Paul