Router Table Fences - why are they split sometimes?

[The Shark]

Hi all, hopefully someone out there can help me.

Whilst looking at router tables, I have noticed that some have a fence that extends the complete length of the table, and others are split into 2 halves. What are the benefits/drawbacks of each method?
I particularly can't work out the logic behind having a split fence, and would appreciate being enlightened regarding this.

Many thanks in advance for any replies received

Malc

 

[Fred01]

The split fence is for the times when you are removing material from the contacting surface. The left fence can be brought in/forward to make up for the removed material and give support. As when you are using the router as a jointer. I hope this helps.

 

[BradNaylor]

Fred is quite right. It is so that you can use your router table as a planer or jointer.

However, I have never used this facility, and I doubt whether many others have either.

I imagine that this design had its origins in spindle moulder fences, which are also constructed this way. What most people do though, is to bolt or screw in place a false fence made from ply or MDF right across the front of the two adjustable fences with as small a notch as possible cut out to accommodate the cutter. This ensures that the fence is always dead straight.

The split fences, both on router tables and spindle moulders, while no doubt having their purposes, are in general use a right pain in the neck.

If you want the best possible results from your router table, fix a second false fence of 6mm MDF or similar to the first false fence while the whole fence structure is positioned forward of the cutter. Then VERY CAREFULLY push the fence back into its cutting position with the router turned on so that the profile of the cutter is machined into the 6mm false fence.

This ensures that you have zero clearance between the cutter and the fence, ensuring greater accuracy and quality of cut. It sounds a bit dangerous but is fine so long as you are sensible. This is standard spindle moulder practice.

I would recommend that if you are buying or making a router table that you make sure it has sufficient adjustment backwards and forwards in the fence to allow the installation of false fences.

Cheers
Dan

 

[OPJ]

A lot of split fences router tables are also adjustable so that you can close the aperture around the cutter, often eradicating the need for a false fence, as described above. They're not too tricky to make.

 

[The Shark]

Thanks very much for all the replies, especially Dan who has cleared the muddy water!

Malc

 

[Lee J]

Hi mate, I use a split fence when using my router. I set the fence up so the gap is big enough to extract the sawdust. I replaced my MDF split fence with some aluminium ones I had made in my works engineers workshop.

 

[moose007]

I replaced my split fence with a ruddy big oak one with a 90mm hole in the middle to take my panel cutter. I clamp perspex to either side to reduce the gap. A split fence was taking me ages to align correctly....... but I probably wasn't doing it correctly in the first place. :roll:

 

[Jake]

I use the offset but only very occasionally. A bullnose was the last thing I used it for, where the whole of the face of the timber against the in-fence was being removed by the cutter. It was easier to set up that way and take a bit more off than to get the cutter lined up so it took nothing off the very apex of the nose, as it were.

 

[George_N]

I built my split fence following Ron Fox's plan on the Wealdenwebsite. As already said, a split fence lets you adjust the aperture to the size of the bit you are using, so that you get maximum support for your workpiece. I have also used the router table as a jointer on occasion, by shimming the outfeed side of the fence. I have a couple of pieces of laminate that I can slip behind the movable fence face, depending on how deep a cut I want to take. I have used this method to dress the edges of melamine faced chipboard when I have struggled to get a clean cut otherwise...the MFC is hard on router bits though, so I have invested in a replacable tip 50 mm x 1/2" bit, also from Wealden.

 

[The Shark]

Thanks for the replies, guys.

Malc

 

[wizer]

When I get round to it I want to build a Steve Maskery (Woodworking Superstar) RT Fence

 

[Wood Monkey]

I had a split fence and junked it and replaced with a one piece fence.

Much better.

Jon

 

[Waka]

I have two fences on my router table, the main one is the Incra without the split fence. The other being the Veritas that has the split fence, this is used mainly for the style and rail bits which need to be recessed into the fence.