Ripping by Hand - I'm f'in knackered!!!!!!

UKworkshop.co.uk

Help Support UKworkshop.co.uk:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

kinsella

Established Member
Joined
2 Dec 2006
Messages
380
Reaction score
13
Location
Dagenham, London
Colleagues
I found myself splitting some pine down into thinner boards at the weekend. I put my table saw blade up as far as I could, and I did two passes top and bottom, which still left a few inches in the middle to cut out. I’ve been building up my hand tool collection recently. My power tool collect is well equipped for hobby work. But a rip saw is not one of them. I found out to my detriment.
But you can imagine the sweat and pain trying to split wood with an ordinary jet cut Stanley. I've just about recovered. Never again!
My mate says he has one in the garage from his granddad. Well come to papa!

You live and learn as they say.
 

Attachments

  • photo 4.JPG
    photo 4.JPG
    55.1 KB
  • photo 3.JPG
    photo 3.JPG
    86 KB
  • photo 2.JPG
    photo 2.JPG
    79.8 KB
  • photo 1.JPG
    photo 1.JPG
    91.1 KB
You might find it easier if you sit astride the board, over a couple of saw stools, and hold the saw vertically with both hands together.
There's a vid somewhere I'll see if I can find it.
 
kinsella":2840sep6 said:
Jacob, i think i know what you mean. i'll give that a go next time.
Can't find the vid. I think it was on an american mag site.
I know it sounds clumsy but it works, not least because you use the strength of both arms and everything is nice and vertically aligned. And you are sitting down! Tilting the saw vertically makes the teeth act more like ripsaw cut teeth somehow.
 
(hammer) Bark (use your short name :) )What I failed to add is that I got so tired and so frustrated that i put a wedge down the middle on the last one with disastrous consequences. Wedges! the last ditch attempt of a desperate man. :oops:
 
Lol, while Jacob was searching for the vertical sawing vid I was looking for the one where Ray Mears and his Swedish pal make skis from a tree :D
 
Hand resawing is normally done with a large saw, with rip teeth (large, no "fleam", steep rake).

And it's still hard.

Ripping with a normal size fine tooth hard point sounds miserable - but well done!

BugBear
 
Jacob":2v2qlk97 said:
Can't find the vid. I think it was on an american mag site.
I know it sounds clumsy but it works, not least because you use the strength of both arms and everything is nice and vertically aligned. And you are sitting down! Tilting the saw vertically makes the teeth act more like ripsaw cut teeth somehow.

Is this it?

http://www.popularwoodworking.com/woodw ... ays-to-rip
 
DTR":r0yrbhgq said:
Jacob":r0yrbhgq said:
Can't find the vid. I think it was on an american mag site.
I know it sounds clumsy but it works, not least because you use the strength of both arms and everything is nice and vertically aligned. And you are sitting down! Tilting the saw vertically makes the teeth act more like ripsaw cut teeth somehow.

Is this it?

http://www.popularwoodworking.com/woodw ... ays-to-rip
Close. I'd do it cutting towards myself (it's safer than it looks!) and with the saw vertical. You edge back along the board, or pull a bit of board forwards, as you go.
I've never tried the Schwarzy way - somehow I think pulling it towards you is more powerful.
 
That could be very uncomfortable for the OP's deep ripping. On the other hand if you are used to a racing bike saddle :(
xy
 
xy mosian":15sw8w0u said:
That could be very uncomfortable for the OP's deep ripping. On the other hand if you are used to a racing bike saddle :(
xy

Yeah - ripping is easy ... at least when compared to resawing.

BugBear
 
Funny. I have a Lynx rip saw and have attempted resawing with it many a time. It busts my gut. Last time I got so tired and frustrated I decided to use my Bahco 7 tpi cross cut saw and it went through the wood like a hot knife through butter. Light and day. I'd throw my Lynx in the bin if it hadn't have cost me £80 (I'll use it as a resharpening exercise). But even better is a Japanese rip saw. One of the double sided ones (rip and cross cut) are quite cheap and very useful.
 
Fromey":jzi7z8nb said:
Funny. I have a Lynx rip saw and have attempted resawing with it many a time. It busts my gut. Last time I got so tired and frustrated I decided to use my Bahco 7 tpi cross cut saw and it went through the wood like a hot knife through butter. Light and day. I'd throw my Lynx in the bin if it hadn't have cost me £80 (I'll use it as a resharpening exercise). But even better is a Japanese rip saw. One of the double sided ones (rip and cross cut) are quite cheap and very useful.
Your Lynx saw needs sharpening. That's all there is to it. It'll then rip much better than the Bahco.
Mind you they are good the cheap hardpoint saws.
 
Jacob":301lhcls said:
Fromey":301lhcls said:
Funny. I have a Lynx rip saw and have attempted resawing with it many a time. It busts my gut. Last time I got so tired and frustrated I decided to use my Bahco 7 tpi cross cut saw and it went through the wood like a hot knife through butter. Light and day. I'd throw my Lynx in the bin if it hadn't have cost me £80 (I'll use it as a resharpening exercise). But even better is a Japanese rip saw. One of the double sided ones (rip and cross cut) are quite cheap and very useful.
Your Lynx saw needs sharpening. That's all there is to it. It'll then rip much better than the Bahco.
Mind you they are good the cheap hardpoint saws.

That's what I hope but it was supposed to be "hand sharpened" when I bought it.
 
I too have a Lynx rip saw. As supplied it has a very minimal amount of set on it, and though it cuts nicely and tracks well in a well behaved timber, it is easy for the blade to get pinched, especially if the wood isn't all that dry. My cheapie Irwin hardpoint saw does indeed go through green wood easier. I think I will try re-setting the Lynx sometime.
 
Back
Top