Record DML/24

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MartyR1

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Hi all.

I've recently been given a Record DML/24 lathe by my father-in-law.
All in working order but unfortunately I've got no way of 'attaching' any wood to it.

On the head all I have is the (I think) 3/4" 16TPI male thread and the thread protector nut.

On the Centre end I just have the hole.

I've been struggling to find much info on this lathe.

I know I can buy chucks and faceplates suitable for the thread size, but would anyone happen to know what size taper I would need for the Centre...?

Also what size/type of drive centre I can fit in the head...

Any help would be Very greatly appreciated so that I can start cutting some wood.

(I've already ordered a copy of Woodturning:A Foundation Course to help get me started...)


Many thanks


Mart
 
I found that link earlier, but doesn't actually give any useful info in the manual about taper size or drive prong type size needed.. :( Any the part numbers listed in the manual also don't exist on the record power web site..

Was hoping that someone had a similar lathe and knew the details..


Thanks for the response tho...
 
I am almost sure all of the dml range have a 1MT.
2 prong or 4 is really a matter of personal choice but the 2 prong version I find preferable because the face of the wood does not have to be parallel to get a good bite.
Same size in the tail stock too, you want a live centre (i.e. the pointy bit spins with the wood) you do not need to stick to Record Power for these bits as it is a standard size. Have a look at Axminster, Tuners Retreat and many others for supplies.
 
MartyR1":3gq0a56g said:
I found that link earlier, but doesn't actually give any useful info in the manual about taper size or drive prong type size needed.. :(
If you read the manual linked to, all the information is there.
 
For anyone who does not have access to a manual for their lathe there is always the linked document in the Help Thread at the top of the forum that gives dimensions of Morse Tapers, it's just a case of a rough measurement of the visible bore face to select size.
 
Hi

Ordering 'The Book' is the best first step you could possibly take - I'd recommend waiting for it to arrive and reading it thoroughly before buying anything else.

If the urge to turn is too strong then as said above you will need 1MT drive and tail centres which can cost from C £20 - > £100 per set depending on what you decide you need, (see why you need to read the book? :wink: ).

Regards Mick
 
If you are planning to use the lathe straight away then the 700 chuck currently on offer for the weekend at Rutlands shouldn't be missed.
 
As you have now found out the headstock thread is 3/4"x16 & both the headstock & tailstock have an internal Number One Morse Taper ie 1MT.

Spur drives & tail centres are normally for spindle work, where the grain runs along the bed, but are also needed to cut a spigot on a cross grain piece (bowl or platter etc) before it can be mounted in a chuck.

All sorts of drive & revolving tail stock centres pictured here
- http://www.axminster.co.uk/wood-working ... cessories/
- http://www.toolpost.co.uk/pages/Chucks_ ... ntres.html
- http://www.toolpost.co.uk/pages/Chucks_ ... ntres.html

Live tailstock centres revolve. Dead centres don't.

Edit: Also because the headstock is not hollow, the thread protector also acts as a drive ejector. Some drives won't fit properly with the thread protector in place so if you happen to get one that doesn't, don't apply too much pressure or it can be a devil of a job to remove.
 
Robbo3":1v152c16 said:
but are also needed to cut a spigot on a cross grain piece (bowl or platter etc) before it can be mounted in a chuck.
Not needed, most cross grain work starts on faceplates or screw chucks.
 
Thanks for all the responses. Had a look at Axminster, out of stock of faceplates for now, but no rush until I've digested some of "The Book". Live centre and two prong drive to be ordered, and the Rutland chucks do seem to look good.

Thanks again to all.
 
JimB":vi79dvi2 said:
Is there much difference between the 24 and the DML36S apart from length?

The DML36SH has a swivel head, allowing larger workpieces to be tackled, as the head can be swivelled clear of the bed bars, which otherwise limit the diameter of the work which can be turned.

Ian
 
JimB":2bsd9wo8 said:
Is there much difference between the 24 and the DML36S apart from length? I have a pdf copy of the latter manual.

I think there are more speeds on the 36 too, 4 vs 3 on the 24X.

The manual does serve both machines though.
 
Hi I have just acquired a record power dml/24 from my father in law but I don't a manual.
I can't see on the net to download one. Can anyone help me please. Thanks
 
Hi Harriet, you may well find that the DML 24 is basically the same as the 36, the bed bar length. This is for the 36 with a swivel head, hence the SH notation.

http://www.free-instruction-manuals.com ... 142910.pdf

Looking at the post before your's it is the same. I used to have a 24 and they are a good beginners jobbie and if you have the same joy from yours as I did then you are in for a lovely surprise!

Good luck and a very Happy turning New Year. Beware though, it's a very slippery slope :mrgreen:
 
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