Reciprocating saw for tree pruning?

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matt

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Miles away - totally impractical...
I thought about a chainsaw but I then I'd be in to all the safety gear and it'll cost a small fortune. So how about a reciprocating saw, like this one, for keeping garden trees in check?

Anyone use one of these - in particular for pruning duties?

Cheers
 
Many thanks. I've since found some YouTube vids from people recommending them for pruning (in particular over chainsaws for smaller jobs). One chap even strongly recommended "...adding a reciprocating saw to your preps, and disaster, and homestead planning" :shock:

Next question... which one? I think I'll go for mains powered to keep costs down. The only exception would be an 18v DeWalt (naked) because I have a DeWalt 18v drill (altho not sure how much longer the Ni-Cd batteries will last given it's age).

The Skil is quite cheap but is it any good?
 
I bought a cheap B&Q one a couple of years ago for a specific "demolition" job. Cost me about £30 I think. I expected to throw it away but it's surprising how many times I use it and that includes occasional pruning though I don't feel it's the best tool for that job.

Only good for very rough work and I found it invaluable for cutting out old window and door frames for instance.
I have found that buying decent quality blades makes a huge difference.

cheers

Bob
 
As with anything if a tool is used right and safely its not dangerous.

I used my stihl chainsaw last week at my folks house for pruning some large trees, i braked the saw as soon as the cutting action wasn't required, very simple and quick with a flick on the wrist.

In my opinion this is much safer than a recip saw.
 
mark270981":24mj3uxl said:
As with anything if a tool is used right and safely its not dangerous.

I used my stihl chainsaw last week at my folks house for pruning some large trees, i braked the saw as soon as the cutting action wasn't required, very simple and quick with a flick on the wrist.

In my opinion this is much safer than a recip saw.

I've never used a chainsaw so not entirely familiar with the controls; however, I thought it was universally accepted that they're very unforgiving (i.e. get it wrong and you know about it in probably quite a serious way)? By contrast, a reciprocating saw is more basic so less likely to get it wrong and also, if you do, it's progress is slower in terms of the damage it is likely to do before you get a chance to react?

I don't dispute that a chainsaw in experienced hands is safer than in inexperienced hands; however, I'm struggling to get my head round a chainsaw being universally safer than a reciprocating saw? Braking the blade seems equal to applying the trigger lock on a reciprocating saw - both avoid accidentally activating the cutting action. What else about a chainsaw makes it safer?

Cheers
 
I've got a cheap MacAllister one which I bought from B&Q in a sale for about £20 to use when renovating our house and it's great for the odd times that I used it (cutting out window frames, chopping up old studs and an old oil tank etc) Although I totally agree that it's the blade which makes the difference - the ones which came with it were rubbish so I bought some Makita blades but I found them to be a bit weedy for "demolition" because they bent really easily.

I've never used it for pruning trees but I think it would be ideal. I don't understand how a chainsaw, even in experience hands, could be safer than a reciprocating saw?
 
in my experience ripcip saws will snag if not held steady, which would prove dangerous when up a ladder etc etc, plus the blade won't come to a complete stop straight away.

I haven't used the chainsaw that much but i was anal about it and practiced using the brake till it became second nature so i feel safe in using it up a ladder. The obvious checks must be done, ie tying off the ladder with some rope, with someone watching/holding from beneath.

I wouldn't use anything else now if long reach pruning shears aren't upto the job.

I hope this helps.
 
but i should also add that the chainsaw cost 175 quid which is a lot of money for a bit of pruning, but the initial outlay has already paid for itself as we cut down about 20 dead trees in the folks back garden when they originally moved in. Plus I have ahem used them to cut green oak for some furniture i have made and sold.
 
I dont know much about recip saws but ive made my living with chainsaws for over 25 years, what I would say is if your going to use a chainsaw for pruning then please use the right one! i.e a proper top handled one thats designed for exactly this use and can be used safely one handed.
working from ladders to do treework, personally I wouldnt, even if the ladder is tied in trees still move a surprising amount, not a safe working practise!

as has been mentioned before, please get used to the chain brake before use, its there to prevent injury from kickback , unless youve ever experienced this pheonomenon you wouldnt believe how quick it can happen and the resulting damage to face/head is something out of a horror movie!
 
I think i will be using a handsaw from now on..................

Stihl chainsaw for sale i think the model is a 170. just kidding.
 
ricasso":19st5362 said:
I dont know much about recip saws but ive made my living with chainsaws for over 25 years, what I would say is if your going to use a chainsaw for pruning then please use the right one! i.e a proper top handled one thats designed for exactly this use and can be used safely one handed.
working from ladders to do treework, personally I wouldnt, even if the ladder is tied in trees still move a surprising amount, not a safe working practise!

as has been mentioned before, please get used to the chain brake before use, its there to prevent injury from kickback , unless youve ever experienced this pheonomenon you wouldnt believe how quick it can happen and the resulting damage to face/head is something out of a horror movie!

Any chance of a link to the correct type (and perhaps also a link to the "wrong" type)?

How do you prune a tree if not using a ladder?

Cheers
 
Rope access kit.

I use my caving SRT sit harness (Superavanti) and descender (Petzl "Stop") when up on the roof of our house (approx 45 ft. to the apex). I've not pruned trees using it, but it would be ideal. The harness is designed to be protected from abrasion, and to stop you inverting if knocked unconscious.

The professionals doing access work, including tree surgery, use harnesses that are more comfortable for longer periods, theoretically, but I've on on occasion spent 2 hours at a time in mine without feeling too uncomfortable. You're supposed to use a chest harness and ascender/Karabener too, for safety, and anyway you'd need a chest harness+ascender to climb in the first instance, but haven't needed it on the roof.

Mind you, prices seem to have gone up by about 50% or more since I bought mine, and static rope is expensive too. It is by far the safest approach though, especially if you're up high.

E.
 
How would you do the highest branches (i.e. where there is nothing to hang from)? I suppose that must be one of the exceptions, where one has to find a good place to stand in the tree?
 
the saw id use for work in a tree would be a stihl 020 climbing saw, its only meant to be sold to certificated users but they can be picked up on ebay, the only time you'd use a back handled saw in a tree is for major dismantling where the limbs are over about 12".

ive never used acenders because I was trained the 'old fashioned way' using proper tree surgeons sit belts and prussic loops, the less junk you take up the tree the better when your gonna spend maybe most of the day up there!

with regards to the top branch's you shuold never really climb above your roping in point but obviously this is inevitably inpractical so its really a case of free climbing the top stuff, so long as you stay roped in not to far below you wont fall to far if it goes wrong!
 
We had some large ash trees that were sucking the water out of our shrinking clay soil at our last house. Got professionals in to fell them, which involved a lot of work in the canopy as they had to come down in sections. The guy doing it (from a large and presumably properly incorporated company) worked with no PPE, just a rope. Absolutely crazy.

I would NEVER use a chainsaw, or for that matter, any powersaw, without both feet firmly planted on terra firma. And if pruning, loppers or a handsaw is fine.
 
I have an expensive industrial rated makita chainsaw as well as the recip saw. I'm an experienced chainsaw user though it is now used infrequently and IMO, anyone who uses a chainsaw without proper training, supervision or experience is asking for trouble and from a ladder is an accident waiting to happen.

I would always use the chainsaw to prune large branches as it's the right tool for the job but in no way is it safer than a recip saw. A VERY healthy respect and concentration is needed at all times if you don't want to lose a limb or your life (as a neighbour did a number of years ago). As previously said, kickback when it happens, not if - is frightenly quick.

Bob
 
I would second the Silky saw recommendation, they cut very quickly and are good in close quarters, I do most of my pruning around the garden with one of these. Clearly if it is bigger you may need a bush saw, but for most pruning it will be more than adequate

Try something like this:
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Silky-Gomtaro...andTools_SM&hash=item4158ef55a7#ht_862wt_1139

Also agree with chain saw on the ground, they are great tools but up a ladder and dangling on a rope .... not for me!
 
Before taking a chainsaw up a ladder Google 'Roland Pudney'
Recipsaw with a Bosch S1531L blade or a pruning saw on a pole for me

Matt
 
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