Re-building an MDF Door

[jedmc571]

Hello

I hae sourced some MDF interior Doors half price all 762mm ( 30" ) I need 6 of them to be 686mm ( 27" )

They are from B&Q but they are not on the website, for visual the nearest I can find are these

http://www.diy.com/diy/jsp/bq/nav/nav.j ... arch=false

They are 36mm MDF stile and rail with an MDF Floating panel, and lipped all round with a 10mm hardwood.

What I propose to do is to cut out 3" from the centre, and glue it back together making a 27" door, the gaps will be filled and re primed, and an infill peice will cover the cut on the panel essentially turning a 4 panel into an 8 panel, I did a mock up, and I can live with the look.

My questions are....

1. What's the best/stongest glue to use?
2. Should I dowel, or biscuit join it

Any suggestions at all are welcome.

Incidenatally, this door was a clearance at one branch for £24 but are newly on sale at another for £58, but it's not available in 27" I bought 12 and hung 3 before I realised the issue with the smaller size

Cheers

Jed

 

[joesoap]

Hi Jed
To answer your questions on glue type and biscuits or dowels most of the guys here are better equipped to answer that as I would know what I would use , but there's a wide variety of which someone will strongly recommend.
However I must say that I don't go along with your reducing the three doors .
As you got your doors at knockdown price why not sell the three and trawl the net for three 27s to retain your door pattern throughout .
If these are not the moulded type doors and you did say the panels were dry fixed would it be possible to save your panels and stiles and reduce or replace top bottom and mid rails .
Again not according to Hoyle but there's always a way . Your choice Jed
Cheers !

 

[joiner_sim]

Strongest Glue>
Everbuild Resintite http://www.everbuild.co.uk/products/9,Adhesives/11,Wood Adhesives/1 Second item down.

Dowels or Biscuits? I don't know what would be strong enough for your construction method.I would definatley not cut the door in half. I would be tempted to reduce the doors by the 3" by taking 1.5" off either end of the door and then simply re-strengthening the door by glueing and cramping infill pieces in between the veneers.

 

[jedmc571]

Cheers Fellas

Tried everywhere looking for a 27" nothing available ? and cant pull it apart because it just tears at the joint.

As for reducing off both edges, it leaves nowhere to fit the handle.

Feel a bit snookered on this one

Jed

 

[joiner_sim]

Cheers Fellas

Tried everywhere looking for a 27" nothing available ? and cant pull it apart because it just tears at the joint.

As for reducing off both edges, it leaves nowhere to fit the handle.

Feel a bit snookered on this one

Jed

The side the lock block is on, router out the lock block that is left and put a new one inside?

 

[dickm]

If I understand you, you are thinking of cutting down the middle? Why not cut down the inner edge of the lock stile, shorten all the rails (and panels) accordingly, and then biscuit the rails back into the stile? That would give less leverage on the joint than having it in the centre. Also potentially easier than putting in an entire new set of dividing muntins?

 

[jedmc571]

Dick M....Great idea, even thinking about it now I can realise it's simplicity, and of course it keeps it's strength on the hinge side, and will be much easier to glue up, with regards to the muntins, my good lady wife actually likes the look of them on the mock up I did, and so it will be done :lol:

Many thanks for that, I'm feeling a bit stupid now for not thinking of it myself

Any suggestions for which glue to use?
Regards

Jed

 

[dickm]

I'm a fan of Cascamite (as was - Extramite now), but that's just being old fashioned!

 

[joiner_sim]

I still call it cascamite, just didnt no how to spell it, so fought id give the product instead.

 

[pinkyinboro]

i would use a axe
straight down the middle