Pro Edge questions

[duncanh]

Has anyone tried the cheaper belts available at Toolpost (see the bottom of the page) ?

Also, which belts to people tend to use for HSS turning tools?


Is anyone using the ProEdge with large bowl gouges? My 3/4" bowl gouges don't seem to work particularly well in the jig - the brass cap needs taking off the clamp to even get the gouge through the jig and when the clamp is tightened the thread never seems to leave the tool centred. The only solution I can see is to take part of my previous Tru-Grind jig and modify it so it fits into the Pro-Edge boss.

I also find it rather annoying that the bolt fixing the platform in place isn't captive in the platform - I only have the one platform so I'll look into modifying that, possibly also cutting it short as my skew chisel (which has lots of life left in it!) doesn't quite reach the belt when used with the jig.


Any other mods that people have made which might improve things?


Thanks

Duncan

 

[marcros]

i would use ceramic belts. I have used non-sorby ones but not the toolpost ones. I wouldnt bother with the alox ones, but the others would be worth a go.

the only issue is that the prices are plus VAT, and the postage from toolpost was always full plenty (IIRC). If you want a few or can split an order with somebody BND abrasives are probably a better bet. Do a search on here for the specifics.

 

[yorkshirepudding]

They do a short table for shorter blades. I use it for my mini pen making tools.
I agree that it's a pain that the tightening bolt is loose but I'll forgive it the one shortcoming.
I use a variety of o.e. belts. The cost difference isn't so great and it's not as if I had to change it frequently.

 

[duncanh]

i would use ceramic belts. I have used non-sorby ones but not the toolpost ones. I wouldnt bother with the alox ones, but the others would be worth a go.

the only issue is that the prices are plus VAT, and the postage from toolpost was always full plenty (IIRC). If you want a few or can split an order with somebody BND abrasives are probably a better bet. Do a search on here for the specifics.

I've never quite understood why Toolpost list prices without VAT, other than to catch people out. The website could do with some serious redesign as well, but it's been that way for years and I can't see it changing any time soon.

Yes, I'd seen the posts about BND

 

[AJB Temple]

Another issue that is worth mentioning perhaps is that on mine the right hand side belt guard (held on by two knobs) projects out further than the belt and so fouls wide tools or blades. I end up taking the blade guard off but at some point I will have to grind it down or modify it.

I have to admit I don't use the jigs much - I sharpen pretty much everything freehand as I am rarely taking much off.

Fully agree on ceramic belts.

 

[CHJ]

I use ceramic belts (BND), I went with those having experienced using oxide discs previously on another machine and the wear rate I experienced shaping HSS and metals in general. I weighed up the costs of looking for and obtaining either by post or collection from other sources and came to the decision that long term BND was less agro and an acceptable outlay.

But must admit the latter decision was based on the fact that I had already justified to myself the much higher cost of purchase and maintenance of the system compared with my bench grinder setup.

I have made several mods/adaptations to my machine to accommodate my preferred tool handling.

• 
  1. For short tools I have a sub 'packing' short platform that locates/sits on top of the original platform that allows clearance for the tool handle.
  2. The fixing bolt for the platform I have shortened to reduce the number of turns required to tighten.
  3. I have fitted a packer to raise the platform to provide additional tool handle clearance of the switch assembly at low Skew angles.
  4. Made my own Vee blocks and angle guides and zero clearance slip-on's to provide zero clearance, (raising platform increases belt/ platform clearance at anything other than 90 deg.)
  5. Repositioned Platen further up the belt to aid skew and low angle sharpening with raised table.
  6. Made a slip on sub platen to lift belt to facilitate Knife sharpening (handle clearance) rather than having to continually change platens as per the Sorby system.
  7. Made my own rest support located on the jig pivot bar for knife sharpening (rather than purchase the sorby item).

Most of the above DIY jigs and modifications to reduce the financial outlay but also to avoid as much unnecessary machine reconfiguring as possible when changing from tools to knives etc.

 

[Paul Hannaby]

Is anyone using the ProEdge with large bowl gouges? My 3/4" bowl gouges don't seem to work particularly well in the jig - the brass cap needs taking off the clamp to even get the gouge through the jig and when the clamp is tightened the thread never seems to leave the tool centred. The only solution I can see is to take part of my previous Tru-Grind jig and modify it so it fits into the Pro-Edge boss.

What you need is one of these

 

[Random Orbital Bob]

Has anyone tried the cheaper belts available at Toolpost (see the bottom of the page) ?

Also, which belts to people tend to use for HSS turning tools?


Duncan

Personally I've stopped buying from Toolpost because I just cannot bear Peter's "oh so amusing" personality. There's quirky and then there's just an obstinate pain in the wotsit and I'm afraid he's crossed the line for me. Not putting VAT on his website pricing is a classic example of how "original" he is. If you're listening Peter....you're there to serve your customers!

Anyway, I suggest you look at BND Abrasives in Andover and as other folks have suggested buy the ceramic belts which are the best overall value (price versus longevity). BND are the best value members from this forum have ever found to date. (We regularly group up and order bulk buys between 3,4,5, of us).

Grit wise: I buy 60g for shaping (like sweeping the wings back off a gouge when new) and then 120 for almost all other sharpening operations eg gouges and skews while in the middle of turning. The grit numbers are confusing when benchmarked against regular stones. 120 grit sounds way too course to get a decent edge on but for some reason, belts don't operate in the same universe as the grit of stones and the finish on a HSS turning tool edge from a 120g ceramic belt is easily good enough and provides an excellent compromise between speed of grinding (very fast indeed) and a decent edge. I've tried both 240 and 320 and they're just too fine.

So BND is the supplier
60 and 120g is the coarseness
ceramic is the appropriate material

The only downside is we (on the forum that is) only just a few weeks ago did a group order so short term you might be on your own and BND need a minimum order size of 12 belts in any one grit.

 

[Random Orbital Bob]

Is anyone using the ProEdge with large bowl gouges? My 3/4" bowl gouges don't seem to work particularly well in the jig - the brass cap needs taking off the clamp to even get the gouge through the jig and when the clamp is tightened the thread never seems to leave the tool centred. The only solution I can see is to take part of my previous Tru-Grind jig and modify it so it fits into the Pro-Edge boss.

What you need is one of these

What you may not realise is that the elliptical grinding jig that Sorby use is done so under licence from Tormek who invented it and still own the patent. Tormek have recently (this year) upgraded what they used to call the SVD 185 with the SVD 186 (creative naming I know).

The newer 186 has a wider mouth specifically designed for larger gouges and has done away completely with the brass thingummy, replacing it with a kind of long wing nut design. This works beautifully and will solve your problem. It aint cheap mind at around £60

 

[Grahamshed]

I have made several mods/adaptations to my machine to accommodate my preferred tool handling.

• 
  1. For short tools I have a sub 'packing' short platform that locates/sits on top of the original platform that allows clearance for the tool handle.
  2. The fixing bolt for the platform I have shortened to reduce the number of turns required to tighten.
  3. I have fitted a packer to raise the platform to provide additional tool handle clearance of the switch assembly at low Skew angles.
  4. Made my own Vee blocks and angle guides and zero clearance slip-on's to provide zero clearance, (raising platform increases belt/ platform clearance at anything other than 90 deg.)
  5. Repositioned Platen further up the belt to aid skew and low angle sharpening with raised table.
  6. Made a slip on sub platen to lift belt to facilitate Knife sharpening (handle clearance) rather than having to continually change platens as per the Sorby system.
  7. Made my own rest support located on the jig pivot bar for knife sharpening (rather than purchase the sorby item).

Do you have pics of any of those Chas ?

 

[CHJ]

Do you have pics of any of those Chas ?

The Basics of it Here Graham.