Please help should I clear lacquer? #editted

[therealriley]

Hi all, I'm a newbie here. I'm hoping to find some advice on a project if possible.

I purchased an old wooden ammo box which was used for storing bomb equipment I think (it's empty now obviously).
I will be upcycling it into a coffee table.

My issue is on the outside it has old brown paint which is flaking in places and on top of that it has yellow painted numbers and markings which I wanted to keep exactly how it looks now.

If after I've gave this a sand down in places is there anything I can use like oil or clear lacquer to protect the wood and the painted writing on the side to keep it looking like an ammo box?

I will be placing the lid back on top but with hinges so I need it to be sealed well for a coffee table to protect it.

No opinion will go a miss so any help is appreciated please.
Many thanks
Paul

 

[rafezetter]

You might wish to consider using something like West Systems epoxy resin - if the patina and markings etc are to be kept like that indefinitely then an epoxy resin finish is the way to go as it will provide a thick, non yellowing, non peeling, impervious to water coating.

Oils won't provide enough protection from wear regardless of how many coats you apply and the lettering will be worn off. French polish / shellac would give more protection, but is not any good for protecting from coffee cups and the like, the heat will burn through it leaving permanent ring marks, and stripping the french polish / shellac will damage the lettering underneath. You could varnish, but there isn't a varnish made yet that won't break down over time and will require re-application. The problem is when it breaks down and peels off it will take whatever it was attached to - like the lettering etc - with it. If the coffee table isn't treated with the greatest of care then it's likely that the varnish will down the road become a severe liability in terms of trying to maintain all the painted lettering etc.

The epoxy is similar to whats used to preserve insects and such - and would protect all the important bits like the lettering indefinitely.

It's a more expensive than varnish certainly, but surprisingly easy to apply if a little messy - but will render the surfaces of the ammo box impervious to pretty much everything except a fire (and scratches, but even those can be polished out)... If it's valuable enough to you, then this is what I'd recommend.

Edit: The epoxy doesn't have to be a mirror finish either, once fully cured you can gently dull it down with some T-cut to get a more matt / satin version as the natural gloss of epoxy can be a bit "in your face".

 

[therealriley]

Hello thank you for your reply. I admit being a bit of a newbie I was lost with your post. Now I've started to read into each part I've gained a bit more understanding now. I can see what you are saying about the epoxy but I'm not having much luck finding it locally. I can find clear polyeurethane, clear varnish, a nice dark oak varnish (hoping this is the colour I can go for the lid/table) and an epoxy resin for use with repairing boats.

I've now turned the ammo box into a chest using the the original lid. I've sanded down the top lid and it has gone back to bare wood. The box part is sanded inside but not on the outside where the original paint and painted on numbers are still unprotected.

I want to post a picture. Can I post links to a photo bucket link, if I upload it and post a link here?