Please don't split! Also, why's the middle darker?

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Brianp

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Ash (I think) shallow bowl, roughed out this morning. I have another blank similar sized. I like the darker heartwood, but don't know why it's there?

Gonna put the two into a paper bag with shavings to dry out once I've the second one roughed out. It's worked for me before, so hopefully it'll work again.

Edit: Added pic. I'm always forgetting... :oops:
 

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You will hear of "Olive Ash" this is the centre from older Ash trees, as the tree ages so the centre becomes darker and resembles olive wood hence the name Olive Ash.
You shouldn't do platters / bowls from end grain timber, it is too unstable and if it doesn't split then it is liable to break in two at the first bit of heavy handed treatment.

Andy
 
I like the roughing our of the bowl but do not know enough to know why it has such dark heartwood. It may always be there but avoided in planking ?
 
+1 on what Andy says. From the pic it looks like you have made the platter by cutting end grain. Bowls and the like are normally made by cutting the log down the centre and removing the pith section then making the blanks from each half of the split log.
 
procell":32qo47vf said:
+1 on what Andy says. From the pic it looks like you have made the platter by cutting end grain. Bowls and the like are normally made by cutting the log down the centre and removing the pith section then making the blanks from each half of the split log.

I normally do do this (or buy blanks!), but I came into some windblown timber that had been cut up. This log was too short to do long grain processing so I thought I'd try an end grain as an experiment. It's all very well knowing the usual but I thought this would be a good opportunity to do it and maybe understand why!

I'll take the advice though and be nice and careful if it ever dries out.
 
Brian, you find on regular occasions when wind blown timber is harvested it is always cut into convenient length for splitting into logs. It does my head in the amount of times I have been offered some timber that has been cut too short.

I turn all my Monkey Puzzle bowls end grain so that I can show the branch knots off. Nine times out ten I get away with no splitting.

Let's hope it doesn't split!

Regards

Vic
 
If you turn it really thin it will warp rather than split - Michael O'Donnell uses a light shining thro the wall to make sure its a constant thickness - that's how thin it needs to be. Warping could be reduced by a series of short bursts in the microwave on defrost setting. But warping can also be pleasant to look at.

HTH

Brian
 
finneyb":310ngwk7 said:
If you turn it really thin it will warp rather than split - Michael O'Donnell uses a light shining thro the wall to make sure its a constant thickness - that's how thin it needs to be. Warping could be reduced by a series of short bursts in the microwave on defrost setting. But warping can also be pleasant to look at.

HTH

Brian

Got me thinking about doing that rather than letting it dry - i turned it heavy (as you can see) to allow for some movement, but maybe that would be something to try. The warping isn't always appreciated, though!
 
Brianp":23k9ltk4 said:
finneyb":23k9ltk4 said:
If you turn it really thin it will warp rather than split - Michael O'Donnell uses a light shining thro the wall to make sure its a constant thickness - that's how thin it needs to be. Warping could be reduced by a series of short bursts in the microwave on defrost setting. But warping can also be pleasant to look at.

HTH

Brian

Got me thinking about doing that rather than letting it dry - i turned it heavy (as you can see) to allow for some movement, but maybe that would be something to try. The warping isn't always appreciated, though!


If you go thin keep it moist while turning ie a light spray with water if it looks as if it needs it - watch the electrics.
Don't overdo the microwave either heat or time - too much heat will crack the wood and may catch fire. Short bursts with rest/cooling periods - feel how hot the wood gets is the best judge.

Brian
 
Got me thinking about doing that rather than letting it dry - i turned it heavy (as you can see) to allow for some movement, but maybe that would be something to try. The warping isn't always appreciated, though![/quote]

Today I just finished rough turning two bowls which are now waxed and put in a cold dry place to keep for a couple of months. they are for two very different people. As you say warping is always appreciated, neither is natural edges/knotty timber. Others find perfect timber bland.

The oak bowl is 13 inches diameter by 4 deep. The pear wood natural edge one is 10 inches diameter and 6 inches deep, getting the bowl gouge into the bottom with more than 5 inches of overhang is about as deep as I can get, being careful not to lose any fingers from the "ears" or the bowl slicing past the toolrest.

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Have to say the natural edge one was much easier to turn (softer wood).
 

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