Planing (a lot of) end grain

[Topaz]

Most attention here is on getting smoothing planes to create silky finishes by producing micro-thin shavings from difficult woods.
I have recently been confronted with the other end of the spectrum:
trying to remove large amounts of material from the end grain of standard DIY shop "white" wood. This was to trim up the bottom planks of a sloping sided box.
My plane(s) were juddering all over the place and horrible things were happening to the wood. Just at the end, a low-angle block plane got the final millimeter or so under control.

How would forum readers tackle the rough bit ?

 

[promhandicam]

flush cut saw

 

[Harbo]

I would use my bandsaw or Table saw.

I made a number of boxes a while ago and cut the initial (mitre) waste on my BS. Planed the remaining (end grain) on my shooting board.

Rod

 

[matthewwh]

 

[Derek Cohen (Perth Oz)]

My plane(s) were juddering all over the place and horrible things were happening to the wood. Just at the end, a low-angle block plane got the final millimeter or so under control.

Hi Topaz

Even a common pitch bench plane should be able to smooth endgrain. From your description you are either taking too deep a cut or have a blade that is not sharp enough (for end grain, especially soft woods, you want S-S-S-Sharp!).

trying to remove large amounts of material

Mmmmm. I guess that answers which one.

Use a handsaw to remove as much as possible, then joint with a long plane, and put the final finish on with a LA plane (block or LA Jack).

Regards from Perth

Derek

 

[woodbloke]

Use a router. Clamp a straight edge a set distance in from the end of the board and run the base of the router along it...simple. I've been fitting a pine door over the last couple of days and this is by far the easiest way to do it. Clean up if necessary with a block plane but you shouldn't have to - Rob

 

[dunbarhamlin]

Weirdly, a scrub is rather effective at hogging end grain. Get nice ribbons of end grain.just make sure the far end is well camfered.

 

[AHoman]

Most attention here is on getting smoothing planes to create silky finishes by producing micro-thin shavings from difficult woods.
I have recently been confronted with the other end of the spectrum:
trying to remove large amounts of material from the end grain of standard DIY shop "white" wood.

Here in the states, that stuff is usually wetter than a pig in a pond!

 

[Ironballs]

You're a funny bunch over there, we keep goldfish in our ponds :wink:

Agree with many of the suggestions, would think that a good cross cut blade on the table saw would be an easy and successful route to go

 

[Topaz]

Many thank for your interest in this problem.
Some answers miss that the workpiece was the bottom of a sloping-sided box.
This makes a router (also my first choice) problematic.
There was not really enough material left to use a pull-saw (tried this) and I was worried about scoring the sides.
I tried the TS at 15° blade angle - hand-held due to awkward size (ouch!) - and this worked until I ran up against a pin in the riving knife (stupid Bosch design).
So I was left with hand planes and that was a horrible experience (one of my glued corners failed in the process due to the shocks).

I must try and get my blade even sharper. . .

Introducing this topic was also an attempt to get us posting about planing "white" wood, the stuff that most of the population have to use.
Intuitively, I would say this was more stressful on the plane than the the "classic" test.

 

[Benchwayze]

My plane(s) were juddering all over the place and horrible things were happening to the wood. Just at the end, a low-angle block plane got the final millimeter or so under control.

How would forum readers tackle the rough bit ?

I'm not sure I follow what you are trying to do.
Did you leave the sloping cuts until after you assembled the box? Did you dovetail it, or glue and screw?

I cut pieces as close to finished size as possible, leaving just the minimum to clean off afterwards. I don't use a cutting list as such, but this is what they are for. Or have I got the wrong end of the stick?

Cheers
John