dan73
Member
Can anyone help me identity this planer I just bought. I need to find spares including 5 inch blades for it many.
Many thanks.
planer jointer id?
- Thread starter dan73
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Can anyone help me identity this planer I just bought. I need to find spares including 5 inch blades for it many.
Many thanks.
acewoodturner
Established Member
You don't need to know the identity of it to get new blades. Any saw doctor can make them for you if you have the sizes. Most likely to be imperial sizes due to its age.
blackrodd
Established Member
Have you got the cap irons and bolts for the cutter block?
There won't be any wedges on this baby!
Firstly,if both the cap irons are off then you ought to clean them all up and balance them, using a balance, the slight difference in the weight of the bolts will help by changing them around.
If one iron is off then don't get them mixed up at all, work on 1 side at a time and mark the block and the correct cap iron with tippex.
Any Vibration is to be avoided as the consequences can be dangerous, I've seen it!
Should the bolts be tight in the threads, then swap them about . Do NOT force them if they are tight.
Measure the old cutters, if the cap irons are rebated, as i suspect they will be, to get the right cutter thickness, again this is obviously very important.
Find a good saw doctor or saw shop and get their advice as to size in thickness.
Also tell him that this planer will rebate, see the cutter block bearing is ground off, below the bed height, I'd say about 3/4", or 19mm, so a light touch on the grinder with the new blade end, and set the blade 1mm over the block, but missing the bearing housing.
Blades Too thick or too thin, will have the same outcome, flying steel!
There ought to be some name cast on the machine body, or at least some name or model. To help you.
HTH Regards Rodders
There won't be any wedges on this baby!
Firstly,if both the cap irons are off then you ought to clean them all up and balance them, using a balance, the slight difference in the weight of the bolts will help by changing them around.
If one iron is off then don't get them mixed up at all, work on 1 side at a time and mark the block and the correct cap iron with tippex.
Any Vibration is to be avoided as the consequences can be dangerous, I've seen it!
Should the bolts be tight in the threads, then swap them about . Do NOT force them if they are tight.
Measure the old cutters, if the cap irons are rebated, as i suspect they will be, to get the right cutter thickness, again this is obviously very important.
Find a good saw doctor or saw shop and get their advice as to size in thickness.
Also tell him that this planer will rebate, see the cutter block bearing is ground off, below the bed height, I'd say about 3/4", or 19mm, so a light touch on the grinder with the new blade end, and set the blade 1mm over the block, but missing the bearing housing.
Blades Too thick or too thin, will have the same outcome, flying steel!
There ought to be some name cast on the machine body, or at least some name or model. To help you.
HTH Regards Rodders
dan73
Member
Thanks for your help so far.
There are no makers marks anywhere on it, hence the query.
Unfortunately I've already removed the cutters so I could have a go at sharpening them, but they are very dull. I've spent a hour so far on them!grrr! The caps are flat not rebated.
I will have a do the balancing from scratch as I didn't mark anything and the blades where wrongly fitted anyway.
Does anyone know a saw doctor in mid Cornwall?
I'm determined to get this machine fixed as its nice quality. Ill be needing a motor too. Any recommendations?
There are no makers marks anywhere on it, hence the query.
Unfortunately I've already removed the cutters so I could have a go at sharpening them, but they are very dull. I've spent a hour so far on them!grrr! The caps are flat not rebated.
I will have a do the balancing from scratch as I didn't mark anything and the blades where wrongly fitted anyway.
Does anyone know a saw doctor in mid Cornwall?
I'm determined to get this machine fixed as its nice quality. Ill be needing a motor too. Any recommendations?
blackrodd
Established Member
The planer looks to be very robust, With machinery, weight goes a long way towards quality almost the heavier, the better.
I would suggest you get around the local industrial estates and ask any of the small, one man joinery workshops if they could help with a saw shop address, Or try Plymouth area. bound to be one there.
Or Measure the cutters thickness, length and width and check availability of replacement on the web sites, The Other Poster may well be right and just replace, being cheaper. Make sure you're measuring is accurate!
There's posters here more qualified as to the size/type of motor, but I would guess and start from a 3/4 horse upward, as it is only a over planer/jointer, with no thicknesser feed to power up. HTH Regards Rodders
I would suggest you get around the local industrial estates and ask any of the small, one man joinery workshops if they could help with a saw shop address, Or try Plymouth area. bound to be one there.
Or Measure the cutters thickness, length and width and check availability of replacement on the web sites, The Other Poster may well be right and just replace, being cheaper. Make sure you're measuring is accurate!
There's posters here more qualified as to the size/type of motor, but I would guess and start from a 3/4 horse upward, as it is only a over planer/jointer, with no thicknesser feed to power up. HTH Regards Rodders
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