Pedestal Drills!
- Thread starter Chris72
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Philly
Established Member
Chris-do you have a horror story to tell? :?:
Philly
Philly
A
Anonymous
Guest
Chris
tell us more
What do you mean by cheap? My machinemart drill has been near perfect for years and was pretty cheap. My father's Nutool one is also pretty good and very cheap
tell us more
What do you mean by cheap? My machinemart drill has been near perfect for years and was pretty cheap. My father's Nutool one is also pretty good and very cheap
engineer one
Established Member
it is always tempting to complain about cheap tools, but two things to think about, could you have afforded something better and were you a cheap skate,?
or were you only able at that time to go for the lower end of the market, if so maybe you should have gone and found your local model engineering society, and asked there whether any old tools were around, they would be good quality and properly maintained.
also there is the question of what you are trying to do on the machine.
to many people take the tool home, and expect it to be perfect from the get go, so a few tips. make sure you remove all the anti rust treatments and waxes, then properly lubricate with a dry grease. then check the run out of the spindle which hold the chuck. simplest way, put a short length of coat hanger in the chuck, and a piece of wood on the table, bend the wire so that is runs about two inches outside the centre of the chuck, then using hand pressure rotate the chuck 360 degrees, see if the wire touches the wood all the way round. if not check the table and mounting are square all around using your level. then set the speed at slow, and run the drill a couple of times,and see whether there is any wobble. if so . remove spindle, and clean again, also clean inside the shaft it goes into, this is known as the quill, then re-install the chuck, use a rubber mallet, then re try.
if it's is still running out take it back, and get another one. like everyone else, i have had some problems, but my 5 year old ex-B&Q item for 29 quid works well for my model making, and the occassional hinge hole drilling, but i do not expect too much of it. are you over expecting????
final thought about engineers, anyone can make it for 200 quid, and engineer for 2, but a US pentagon worker makes it for 5000 dollars.
no wonder going to war costs so much when hammers cost the pentagon 500 bucks, and you and i 27 quid even imported.
paul :wink:
or were you only able at that time to go for the lower end of the market, if so maybe you should have gone and found your local model engineering society, and asked there whether any old tools were around, they would be good quality and properly maintained.
also there is the question of what you are trying to do on the machine.
to many people take the tool home, and expect it to be perfect from the get go, so a few tips. make sure you remove all the anti rust treatments and waxes, then properly lubricate with a dry grease. then check the run out of the spindle which hold the chuck. simplest way, put a short length of coat hanger in the chuck, and a piece of wood on the table, bend the wire so that is runs about two inches outside the centre of the chuck, then using hand pressure rotate the chuck 360 degrees, see if the wire touches the wood all the way round. if not check the table and mounting are square all around using your level. then set the speed at slow, and run the drill a couple of times,and see whether there is any wobble. if so . remove spindle, and clean again, also clean inside the shaft it goes into, this is known as the quill, then re-install the chuck, use a rubber mallet, then re try.
if it's is still running out take it back, and get another one. like everyone else, i have had some problems, but my 5 year old ex-B&Q item for 29 quid works well for my model making, and the occassional hinge hole drilling, but i do not expect too much of it. are you over expecting????
final thought about engineers, anyone can make it for 200 quid, and engineer for 2, but a US pentagon worker makes it for 5000 dollars.
no wonder going to war costs so much when hammers cost the pentagon 500 bucks, and you and i 27 quid even imported.
paul :wink:
No particular horror stories,but after seeing and using drills from the likes of machine mart and others and being very disappointed I think its only right to point out that for a similar price you can buy a second hand meddings,fobco,ajax(scrit) which are built to industrial standards and will just about last forever!
Quality will always out!
Chris
Quality will always out!
Chris
dedee
Established Member
Did I remember reading here-a-bouts that even the cheapest bench drill can be transformed by using a decent chuck?
Can't remember the name of the recomended chuck though.
Andy
Can't remember the name of the recomended chuck though.
Andy
A decent chuck can improve the machine greatly,but on cheap machines the castings tend to be flimsy and not very acurately machined.Also any locking bolts seem to be maid of very soft steel so they strip easily.
At the end of the day you can spend a couple of hundred pounds on a drill that cost a couple of hundred pounds to make.Or you can spend a couple of hundred pounds on a drill that cost twelve hundred pound to make a couple of years ago.I think I am right in saying that the extra £1000 pounds does make all the difference!.
Meddings actually claim to be able to supply 90% of the spare parts for drills made upto thirty years ago.
Chris
At the end of the day you can spend a couple of hundred pounds on a drill that cost a couple of hundred pounds to make.Or you can spend a couple of hundred pounds on a drill that cost twelve hundred pound to make a couple of years ago.I think I am right in saying that the extra £1000 pounds does make all the difference!.
Meddings actually claim to be able to supply 90% of the spare parts for drills made upto thirty years ago.
Chris
Bean
Established Member
A decent chuck will help on any drill, but it will not help a cheap drill. One of the most important parts of a pillar drill is the pillar :shock: Cheap drill use large diameter tube but it is thin walled and distorts when you apply pressure. Older and industrial drills use thick walled tube which does not flex as much under the same force.
My bench drill is over 40 years old, it is all cast iron with quality bearings and a very thick walled tube for the pillar, although its only a bench drill its a two man lift :shock:
Think of it in terms of putting a hock blade in the cheapest plane you can find. Then try and see if it will cut as well as a Clifton, LV or LN.........You know it won't
Bean
My bench drill is over 40 years old, it is all cast iron with quality bearings and a very thick walled tube for the pillar, although its only a bench drill its a two man lift :shock:
Think of it in terms of putting a hock blade in the cheapest plane you can find. Then try and see if it will cut as well as a Clifton, LV or LN.........You know it won't
Bean
