Parkside PTSS 1200 B1

[heno123]

Hi all,

New here but just picked up the plunge saw from Lidl. Wondering if anyone else has experienced this issue, but the depth scale is consistently 2mm out. Set cut depth to 22mm but only cutting about 20mm down!!

Any ideas??

Thanks,

Alan

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[Rorschach]

Add 2mm in your head.

 

[Noel]

Hi all,

New here but just picked up the plunge saw from Lidl. Wondering if anyone else has experienced this issue, but the depth scale is consistently 2mm out. Set cut depth to 22mm but only cutting about 20mm down!!

Any ideas??

Thanks,

Alan

Sent from my SM-G950F using Tapatalk

If you need to limit cut over a sacrificial sheet or whatever just put it up against the stock. With practice you'll be able to eyeball it. 2mm on a CC is hardly crucial.

PS- Welcome Alan.

 

[heno123]

The work around is easily done but just the principal of it!! Maybe I can't complain too much with the price of it!! Can't help but feel there's some kind of adjustment

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[Rorschach]

Might sound silly but you are using the correct mark on the depth gauge? I can't say I have ever checked mine, I always measure the sheet, add on a couple of mm and go for that.

 

[Bodgers]

Hi all,

New here but just picked up the plunge saw from Lidl. Wondering if anyone else has experienced this issue, but the depth scale is consistently 2mm out. Set cut depth to 22mm but only cutting about 20mm down!!

Any ideas??

Thanks,

Alan

Sent from my SM-G950F using Tapatalk

The answer is to not rely on any printed power tool scale. That principal will guide you well when using budget to mid priced power tools.

Just take a measurement between the base and the blade tip with quality steel rule or other decent measuring method. Do a test cut to check.



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[heno123]

Might sound silly but you are using the correct mark on the depth gauge? I can't say I have ever checked mine, I always measure the sheet, add on a couple of mm and go for that.

Yeah I plan on using the track more often than not. Even off the track & set to zero it's 2mm off the surface of the sheet!! Seems that its one of the easier things to be right on it!! Defeats the purpose of the scale

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[Eric The Viking]

I suspect the scale is for the saw just running on the surface, without the rail.

FWIW, my Makita is like that and it's annoying, especially as I have both 160mm and 165mm blades! The bigger blade is the official one for mine, otherwise the scale is way out. With the mains plug out, I usually drop a tooth very gently onto a steel rule or similar tucked under the splinter strip, note the depth and subtract that from the scale reading to get the depth of cut. There's no point in writing any measured offset on the saw, as it isn't very consistent. If you use clamps, they alter things too, if done up too tight.

I think the TS55 has two scales, for use with and without the rail.

Is the indicator adjustable, and if so by how much?

 

[Rorschach]

My Parkside has 2 scales, with and without the rail.

As I said, I don't really pay much attention though. I also use different size blades in mine so then it becomes totally useless.

 

[heno123]

I suspect the scale is for the saw just running on the surface, without the rail.

FWIW, my Makita is like that and it's annoying, especially as I have both 160mm and 165mm blades! The bigger blade is the official one for mine, otherwise the scale is way out. With the mains plug out, I usually drop a tooth very gently onto a steel rule or similar tucked under the splinter strip, note the depth and subtract that from the scale reading to get the depth of cut. There's no point in writing any measured offset on the saw, as it isn't very consistent. If you use clamps, they alter things too, if done up too tight.

I think the TS55 has two scales, for use with and without the rail.

Is the indicator adjustable, and if so by how much?

Yeah as Rorschach says, it has a with & without rail mark. Easy to add 2mm on but I like things to be right lol

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[Bodgers]

I suspect the scale is for the saw just running on the surface, without the rail.

FWIW, my Makita is like that and it's annoying, especially as I have both 160mm and 165mm blades! The bigger blade is the official one for mine, otherwise the scale is way out. With the mains plug out, I usually drop a tooth very gently onto a steel rule or similar tucked under the splinter strip, note the depth and subtract that from the scale reading to get the depth of cut. There's no point in writing any measured offset on the saw, as it isn't very consistent. If you use clamps, they alter things too, if done up too tight.

I think the TS55 has two scales, for use with and without the rail.

Is the indicator adjustable, and if so by how much?

Yeah as Rorschach says, it has a with & without rail mark. Easy to add 2mm on but I like things to be right lol

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It ain't going to be right on these sort of tools! Don't rely on the tool scales.

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