Oak flooring?

[mailee]

I have been asked if I could fit some Oak flooring. Not the normal click together stuff but the type that is bonded to the floor as in an older home. I have never done anything like this before and would like some advice on how to, should I, what would I need and what sort of thing would it entail? Sorry for all the questions but I want to make sure it is within my capabilities before I say yes, or no of course. Thanks guys. :?

 

[JFC]

Is it the block flooring you've been asked to fit ? Herringbone or straight ? in either case your main tool will be patience :shock:

 

[mack9110000]

Is the flooring T&G or batten form or is it mosaic panels? These, have different methods of installation.

 

[mailee]

It is the block flooring JFC and straight not Herringbone.

 

[mack9110000]

Are you laying the block flooring on a timber or a concrete subfloor?The subfloor has to be quite level and flat.It's always best to measure between opposing walls, to achieve an even sized cut.If you are laying a
"basket weave" pattern it's fairly simple,just remember it's imperative to keep the first row perfectly straight.
I hope I'm not teaching my Gran to suck eggs.

 

[Project88]

I have put down solid oak block flooring throughout most of the downstairs of my house. The blocks are about 60 wide 400 long and 22 thick, laid straight.

The blocks fixed onto the concrete floor using a dipping mastic type adhesive (made specifically for job) and the only problem I have had is where the floor was not absolutely level. I contracted the leveling to a specialist who was rubbish. If you are going to do the job get a good reliable contractor to put down a laytex leveling compound PROPERLY. This will definitely make or break the job. There are several points in my floor where you can hear the blocks sound hollow i.e. where the blocks are not firmly fixed, you can also see cracks, albeit only 10 or 20 thou, between the blocks at those places. The floor has been down for nearly two years and in all other aspects it is great.

What finish do you intend to use? I used Bonakemi Traffic which was dam expensive but easy to apply and very very tough, apparently it is the finish used on the floors in the British Museum. Don't think that my front room gets quite that level of foot traffic.

Glad to answer any other questions.

Cheers,
John.

 

[JFC]

Lay a straight edge on the floor and work from that , the blocks wont be 100% square so don't worry about gaps just keep it in line . You can fill the gaps after sanding . it'll do your head in while your on your hands and knees but when you stand up it looks fine .
A bit more info would help.

 

[mack9110000]

Sorry to disagree with JFC,but the flooring should be kept as tight as possible and if you are dealing with new flooring there is no reason why the blocks shouldn't be square.Any undulations in the subfloor will cause gaps.I believe the tolerance should be 1/8" over 10'.Of course there are now fillers which can be mixed with the fine sawdust which will exactly match the floor.Lecol, is one,I believe it has been mentioned in some other threads.A dipping adhesive also makes far less mess than a notched trowel application.If I am laying blocks I just use a builders string line and 2 nails parallel off the longest straight wall and 1 row of blocks on each side.I hope this helps.

 

[SketchUp Guru]

the flooring should be kept as tight as possible

Just curious because I don't know. Tight as possible doesn't really seem like a good idea for a wood floor. We have some friends who had a very nice house built a few years ago. It has maple flooring throughout most of the main floor. It was all laid tight so there were no gaps. I was over there the other day and every board has cupped so there's a sharp ridge at every seam.

We have a maple floor in our kitchen and dining room that is the same age as theirs but wasn't laid quite so tight. It doesn't show any of the problems theirs does.

It seems to me that a hair loose would be better.

 

[JFC]

We are talking about the blocks 200mm x 70mm nom Tongue and grooved ? Ill have to disagree with you mack . You cant lay these with a string line they will move all over the place as soon as you start knocking the next row in . Its timber so its going to move , how can you expect every one to be the same ?

Mailee . Is it possible for you to ply the floor ? If you can then it would be easier to do this and pin the flooring to the ply with a nail gun inho.

 

[mack9110000]

First off, Dave R. No offence Dave but you are in another continent so atmospheric conditions are probably quite different from the UK.I might add that kiln dried maple and moisture don't mix.hence,perhaps, your friends floor cupping.JFC, I know what your'e talking about, but a little patience is required, once the initial 2 rows are laid they should be allowed to set for a while, before attempting to lay any more.Please believe me, I did spend the best part of 45 years laying hardwood flooring.

 

[JFC]

Im talking from my own experience and i have only ever laid it over timber so secret nailing and glue was the way i did the job . I still cant see a couple of hundred maybe thousands of wooden blocks all being the same size and in my experience there are gaps that you fill after sanding .

 

[mack9110000]

I too have laid block flooring over timber and concrete,without nails,or gaps for that matter, and in many different patterns.It can be done.
Now, I Just can't believe the "Master of the Legacy"when he says "a couple of hundred maybe thousands of wooden blocks can all be the same size",well I suppose it all depends on who does the milling,and quality control.Maybe I've just been lucky all these years.

 

[JFC]

Well i cant see anyone who has been in the trade for 45 years saying timber blocks will all be the same size . Its the nature of the beast , Timber moves in different ways and always will . As for the milling , not for me thanks .

 

[mailee]

Hmm, I am perplexed by all this advice and info. I am not sure if I will go ahead with it after all. Sounds like it may entail a lot of trouble. I stil have a lot of work to do on the same job so I can say no if need be. :?

 

[JFC]

Its an easy job mate and time consuming but it looks great . You will have gaps so you need to fill them after sanding , the old dust and glue trick but i will post a link on a product later .
Screw a battern (straight edge to the floor when you feel its right ) and work from that . How many M2 do you have to quote for ?

 

[mailee]

I have around 10 M2 to fit. I know the customer said he had another room done and two guys took two days to do it.

 

[JFC]

Price for a week, one man, plus materials imho
Edit : Sorry if its taken two men two days thats a week just to lay it .

 

[mack9110000]

Mailee,if you can,take a look at the other room your client has had done and if you don't think you can achieve a similar,if not better result, don't touch it.After all, at the end of the day it's your reputation that's at stake.JFC is correct when he says you can use a batten ( 2x1") to use as a reference line,and if the flooring is to be laid in a brick pattern it does make for a simpler install.
JFC,the blocks are milled in a factory why wouldn't they all be the same size.Timber in one end, blocks out the other, production line stuff.

 

[JFC]

Production line ..... In one end , blunt tooling , bored operator , out the other end , stacked and bound and shoved in a cold warehouse , flown half way round the world to a different climate , shoved in a cold warehouse .Shall i continue ?
Im not saying every block will be a different size but some will and the job will take twice as long if you worry about it .