Oak flooring advice

[billybuntus]

I have been doing a little more research on operation bouncey floor...

The initial lifting of a floor board, nice.



After cleaning!



Theres a serious amount of old plaster and lats under the floor! I bet theres at least 1/4 tonne under there.

3 joists nearest the outer wall are the following dimensions





The remaining joists (around 5) are the following dimensions





God knows why the beams are different sizes :roll: if only they'd been larger....

Anyway, I was hoping to run additional joists alongside and sister them but that won't be happening as I'm on my own for a week doing this and it'll be near impossible carrying a 4.5 metre 6x4 into the house

Also, the plaster board is affixed to these lovely additional battens :roll:



So the plan is to get the largest beams possible, cut them and insert lots of noggins between the joists.

18mm osb down ontop and 20mm 4 sided tongue and groove oak ontop

Hopefully that will take the spring out of the floor.

Any opinions?

Thanks,
steven

 

[JFC]

Looks to me like someone has tried to bodge it up before . A new floor would be the best thing and it looks like the ceiling has been retacked with plasterboard so not that messy . But i'm guessing that you don't want a new floor so sistering / doubling up the joists with S&T 5x2 bolted to the existing joists and beared at the ends would give the floor more structure than noggings . You also need to treat those joists for woodworm !!!!

 

[OLD]

I would have thought 2"thick timbers would be fine for sistering and noggins its the depth that gives strength, you can use joist hangers and screws for noggins to keep damage to a minimum if required ,a nail gun would help a lot for sistering.Also you can get rid of the 1/2" dip by the way you sister the new timber string lines help.For a solid subfloor i would use flooring chipboard with the tongues glued and a gap to brickwork, screwed down well.

 

[billybuntus]

My problem with sistering the joists can be seen in the last picture, surely the ceiling has been screwed to these so its not as if I can remove them to allow enough space for the joists?


The biggest I can get in the space is 3" high due to these battens the plasterboard is attached too.

Across the other side of the floor the battens only run like noggins in between the joists but I'd have to cut around 3"x3" out of the new joist in order to get around these which would defeat the point of putting them in surely?

Why do you say about the woodworm? the holes in the joists? I think they may have been present but certainly don't appear to be active.

Thanks,
steven