Oak cart lodge build

[murdoch]

Hi all.

Just thought i'd share a few pics of an oak cart lodge we built last January. would have shown it sooner but didnt have a finished picture. We,re joiners and mainly build windows, doors and kitchens but when a customer asked for a cart lodge i thought we may as well give it a go. Never done any timber framing before so all new to us but it worked out well in the end. just love how few tools are needed to build oak frames. It took 2 of us around 3 weeks to make and a week to erect and finish.

 

[Nippychippy]

Very smart you guys must of been cuffed with the build and the end result

 

[Jamesc]

Nice one,

I love tradiional timber framed buiildings

James

 

[Setch]

Beautiful!

 

[Woodchips2]

That's a real building, well done!

Like the guard dog, do you get much nicked ? :roll:

Regards Keith

 

[sammo]

Love the pile of saw dust in the background of the first picture.

The finished car port is really nice.

Sammo

 

[paulm]

Lovely job

Cheers, Paul

 

[RossJarvis]

Like the guard dog, do you get much nicked ? :roll:

Regards Keith

Guard dog? Obviously that's his "apprentice", lying down on the job as usual!

Looks very good, particularly bearing in mind it's not your speciality. Seen a lot worse from so-called framers.

 

[Paul Chapman]

Very nice.

Cheers :wink:

Paul

 

[HowardM]

Hi,

That looks really nice.
It's just what I need for my tractors and machinery. much better than some corrugated clad portal frame.

Can you give us a breakdown of material sizes/quantities used.?

thanks
Howard

 

[murdoch]

Hi Howard, main frame is all 6x6 with 6x3 sole plates, 4x2 studwork and 6x2 rafters.
Total for all oak and weatherboard was around £2500, tiles £2000 misl £2000

If i could find the plans it send them to you

cheers

 

[HowardM]

Hi Howard, main frame is all 6x6 with 6x3 sole plates, 4x2 studwork and 6x2 rafters.
Total for all oak and weatherboard was around £2500, tiles £2000 misl £2000

If i could find the plans it send them to you

cheers

Thanks Murdoch,
I enjoy the planning/drawings as much as the build, so I would do my own drawings anyway.
But, thanks for the inspiration, I may have found something to do during the Xmas break while
everybody is watching Morcambe and Wise (again).

Howard

 

[BRYAN]

Nice. Well done Murdock.
I you don't mind,I have three questions for you.
1/ Do the dowels come out for dismantleling purposes?

2, Is the total height below the maximum for planning permission?

If the answers to 1&2 are yes,then there is a third question.

3/ Would you be willing and able to sell a set of drawings/plans,please.

Regards Bryan.

 

[ColeyS1]

I'd have thought even if the answers to 1&2 were no, it would be an easy peasy fix finished job looks superb and its useful knowing the timescale.
Coley

Sent from my GT-I9300 using Tapatalk

 

[murdoch]

Nice. Well done Murdock.
I you don't mind,I have three questions for you.
1/ Do the dowels come out for dismantleling purposes?

2, Is the total height below the maximum for planning permission?

If the answers to 1&2 are yes,then there is a third question.

3/ Would you be willing and able to sell a set of drawings/plans,please.

Regards Bryan.

Hi Bryan

1-The oak pegs are drawbored, meaning that the holes are offset to pull the joint togetther. this means theres no other fixings required when erecting the frame and if everything fits its very fast. they can be removed by drilling them out but this would also mean the holes in the mortice and tenon are no longer offset so the joints would'nt go back together as tight.

2-The total height is 3950mm so its 50mm below the planning height.

3- My plans aren't the most detailed but are good enough. if you pm me your address i'll send you a set (if i can find them!)

For anyone interested you should buy 'oak framed buildings' by rupert newman.

I'd never made a frame before and learnt it all from this book.

 

[pablo823]

Top job that very nice

Paul

 

[Chunky Monkey]

Hi Murdoch,

Could you tell me what joint you've used at the rafter to ridge interface. I'll be building a large Victorian styled greenhouse in the spring, and I'd also like to keep any fixings to a bare minimum but was on unsure how to connect these two. I'm leaning towards a mortice and tenon joint.

Thanks
Jon

 

[murdoch]

Hi Murdoch,

Could you tell me what joint you've used at the rafter to ridge interface. I'll be building a large Victorian styled greenhouse in the spring, and I'd also like to keep any fixings to a bare minimum but was on unsure how to connect these two. I'm leaning towards a mortice and tenon joint.

Thanks
Jon

Hi Jon

The rafters are simply butted up to the ridge board. As the rafters meets together either side of the ridge board no joint is needed as they are putting pressure on one another effectively clamping the ridge between them. To stop them slipping to the side they are screwed together from the top so it's not seen.

Hope this helps and I understood correctly

 

[Chunky Monkey]

Thanks Murdoch and yes you understood correctly.

I'm probably over thinking things and in the process making life harder for myself. I was trying to think of ways I could secure my rafters to prevent them sliding and had considered notching the ridge board and leaving a corresponding stub on the rafter (a form of mortice and tenon) but in reality I'm making a lot of work for myself when a single screw would do the job and would not be seen.

Thanks again

Jon

 

[Andy RV]

Looks great, how are the two individual posts at the front (separating the bays) secured to the ground?