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badabec

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I fitted my Elektra Beckum 315 bandsaw with the Bedford Saw guide conversion. Simple enough if you have an air hacksaw handy. I also changed the tensioner to a 10mm rod with a thrust bearing (thanks for the idea, Woodpig) to make it easier to tension.
All fine and dandy, good tension, no blade flutter.
Then the lower tyre decided to come off, just a bit, enough to vibrate like mad.
Before I could hit the stop button, plenty of sparks as the new Tuffsaw blade took a gouge out of the bottom door catch. Scrap!

I also recently bought some walnut, 6" wide, 30mm thick, 8 feet long (nice mix of units!). This was earmarked for a longcase clock case. I had the supplier re-saw it in half (about 14mm thick).
I can now make bananas with it. Bent both along its length and across its width.
Expensive firewood? Or can it be rescued? Or did I choose the wrong wood for such a project? So far I've been re-sawing it to remove the warp and using short lengths as contrast in bandsaw boxes.

I should stick with metal.....

Peter
 
Don't get disheartened, fit 2 new tyres and another tuffsaw blade and you should be ok.
Regarding the walnut, As a general rule, cutting any timbers as you did the walnut, releases inner stresses from not a lot to too much.
Depending on many factors, air or kiln dried, species, moisture content, where stored, etc etc, It's normally best practice to buy close to the finished thickness, store in the closest environment to where it will end up, and remove material, planing etc equally as possible from each side.
Some members use walnut frequently, and will possibly give you some better answers and maybe some tips.
Link below for the tyres, there are other stockists.
All the best for 2016, Rodders

http://www.bedfordsaw.co.uk/tyretire-fo ... bandsaws-2
 
badabec":uhv5p59w said:
I also recently bought some walnut, 6" wide, 30mm thick, 8 feet long (nice mix of units!). This was earmarked for a longcase clock case. I had the supplier re-saw it in half (about 14mm thick).
I can now make bananas with it. Bent both along its length and across its width.
Expensive firewood? Or can it be rescued? Or did I choose the wrong wood for such a project? So far I've been re-sawing it to remove the warp and using short lengths as contrast in bandsaw boxes.

There are some whacky old wives tales remedies but basically if it's warped then that's the end of the matter, it's not going to ever straighten up. Black mark to the supplier for not warning you about the severe risk you were running.

You'll hear people recommend this wood or that wood, again, there's no guarantees. Where as it's true to say, for example, that Mahogany is more stable than Beech, the fact is the least stable Mahogany board will still be less stable than the most stable Beech board.

Faced with the decision to re-saw an 8' board, I'd be tempted to trim five or six inches from one end, re-saw that and check it meticulously, if there was the slightest signs of warping I'd forget about re-sawing the rest.
 
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