Newbie: Am I doing something wrong?

[Mr Mannanan]

Hello there. First time poster here looking for some guidence...A few years ago my wife kindly bought me a starter lathe from B&Q along with a few tools as a Christmas present after I'd given an indication that I wouldn't mind turning a bowl, I'd made one at school decades before. After many initial failures and a few very small succeses I forgot about my new hobby and didn't touch it for quite a few years until last year when I picked it up again....Struggling even more and thinking that it was because my tools were blunt I searched on line and bought what I thought would be a great help and my saving grace, a Robert Sorby Turnmaster. To be honest I was very disappointed because unlike the videos I'd seen where the chaps were removing great amounts of wood in seconds, it took me an age and at times I found it hard work. After one fairly decent bowl which took a great deal of time I gave up....That was until this week when I thought it about time I got the hang of this turning malarkey once and for all....However I'm still finding it very slow and difficult to remove wood. Am I doing something wrong? I've read some articles and looked at videos but I'm no further forward. Any suggestions will be greatly appreciated....Thanks in anticipation,

Pete
Ramsey
Isle of Man

 

[Smithy]

Hi Pete. Do not be disheartened by the videos. These people have been turning for years and naturally make it look easy. In my opinion nothing beats pratice and perserverance. You don't always have to make something just play and get used to your tools. Are you using the right tools for the job? And the most important thing is keeping your tools nice and sharp.

Happy turning

Mike

 

[DiscoStu]

Hi Pete, I've not got a lathe and only had a play at turning once on my FIL lathe. I didn't have an issue make stock round and cutting shapes into it etc. No I by no means produced anything useful, but I didn't have an issue removing wood. I only mention this because if a complete idiot like myself was able to remove wood and make something round then I suspect anyone can and I suspect something might be wrong? Maybe the lathe is too slow / fast for what you're trying to do etc. I think some of the greatly more knowledgable chaps on here might have some suggestions for what to look for / check. Is there anyone local that turns who might be able to check your setup? I suspect it's not you! I also wonder if there are any classes nearby? Or maybe even book a day course at Axminster?

 

[JimB]

Hi Pete, it's hard to give any advice when there is so little information. However, the best advice I was ever given was that the tool will tell you what it wants to do. If it is making hard work of it you're either using the wrong tool for the job, presenting wrongly to the work or, as Mike emphasizes, it might be blunt. When a tool is cutting as it should it... well you can't mistake the sweet feeling. It's rather like hitting a golf ball perfectly for the first time or doing a perfect gear change when learning to drive. It will come if you give it time.

 

[CHJ]

..Am I doing something wrong? I've read some articles and looked at videos but I'm no further forward. Any suggestions will be greatly appreciated....Thanks in anticipation,

Pete
Ramsey
Isle of Man

Three things for starters:-
1. If you have not got it already Get a copy of Woodturning-Foundation-Course by -Keith-Rowley
2. Make getting your tools sharp a priority, they may need sharpening several times during a 15-30 min turning session not just once a week.
3. Read through the Help Sticky at the top of the forum for relevant entries on tool catches, angles etc. and the rest of them for background information.


Sounds like No.2 is your main problem, if a tool is sharp enough and presented correctly then it should cut the moment it touches the wood without you applying any pressure and 90% of the time you should be having to restrict how much it is removing not trying to force it to cut.

 

[Rlewisrlou66]

From one novice to another.
I was having the same problem at first making scrapings rather than shavings and it was annoying me. Keep at it and give your tools a good sharpen or find a local club to take your tools along see if someone can help you sharpen them properly. The tools themselves may be the problem as I've read a few times that cheap chisels are as good for turning as a spoon would be.
You said you bought the Lathe from B&Q what lathe is it and what tools do you have?
Also what wood are you trying to turn?

 

[Mr Mannanan]

Hi there again.

Thank you all so much for your very prompt and informative replies. I certainly intend to get a copy of the book because reading various posts on different issues it seems to hold a great many answers, I'll also take on board your other suggestions. One thing that stands out in all your replies is the need for sharp tools and I understand this and that was the reason I purchased a Robert Sorby tool with interchangeable heads, which according to the bumf doesn't require any sharpening at all....Perhaps it's all down to practice and perseverance. Thanks once again......Off to shed to get some practice in..........I should have added....the lathe is a B&Q own brand...Pro something or other and it's a piece of sycamore I'm trying to turn, previously I tried oak.

 

[Harry 48]

The turnmaster will only scrape wood a well sharpened tool will slice the wood if your riding the bevel correctly you guide the tool not force it plenty of youtube's on this method.

There is not a wood turning tool that does not need sharpening even carbide cutters don't last for ever.
Sharp tools are the turners best friend :lol:

 

[Tazmaniandevil]

I'm almost completely self taught. I say almost, because I did have some bad tuition during my higher woodwork 30-odd years ago, and I have had some one to one tuition.
I would recommend joining a club at the very least and finding out whether anyone there will spare you some time for guidance.
A couple of hundred quid on some pro tuition though, will make all the difference. No-one will profess to showing you how to turn "the right way." Folk can and will be able to say what you're doing wrong.
I'm not familiar with the turnmaster, but I believe it is a scraper. (when turning was first invented it was all probably done with scrapers)
I think you will be able to remove material much more quickly with well sharpened gouges.

 

[Dalboy]

..Am I doing something wrong? I've read some articles and looked at videos but I'm no further forward. Any suggestions will be greatly appreciated....Thanks in anticipation,

Pete
Ramsey
Isle of Man

Three things for starters:-
1. If you have not got it already Get a copy of Woodturning-Foundation-Course by -Keith-Rowley
2. Make getting your tools sharp a priority, they may need sharpening several times during a 15-30 min turning session not just once a week.
3. Read through the Help Sticky at the top of the forum for relevant entries on tool catches, angles etc. and the rest of them for background information.


Sounds like No.2 is your main problem, if a tool is sharp enough and presented correctly then it should cut the moment it touches the wood without you applying any pressure and 90% of the time you should be having to restrict how much it is removing not trying to force it to cut.

+1 for CHJ's advice. When I first started turning I used the "Woodturning A Foundation Course by Keith Rowley" and found lots of information in it try to practice what he has put in the book even if it is just a spindle with beads a coves. Get a feel of the tools, then make your first piece that is of use and keep it to look back on.

 

[Mr Mannanan]

Thank you all so much for your very welcome advice. No time to do anything today but with the weekend coming up hopefully I will find some time. I must say i'm a tad disappointed in the Robert Sorby tool because it's advertised as never going blunt. whatever, I will persevere.....

 

[Rlewisrlou66]

I don't think the problem stems from the Tool being blunt but more a case of it being used for the wrong job.
If you want to remove a large amount of wood you're better off using a Rouging Gouge.

 

[CHJ]

I don't think the problem stems from the Tool being blunt but more a case of it being used for the wrong job.
If you want to remove a large amount of wood you're better off using a Rouging Gouge.

The OP is talking about attempting to make Bowls, no way should a conventional Roughing Gouge be used on Bowl Blanks, one catch on the end grain and a serious accident could happen if the tang bends or breaks.

Roughing Gouge

 

[Rlewisrlou66]

I meant for Roughing out blanks to take most of the material before getting to the making of the bowl.
Sorry if I didn't make my point clear I'm new to turning too.

 

[Dalboy]

I meant for Roughing out blanks to take most of the material before getting to the making of the bowl.
Sorry if I didn't make my point clear I'm new to turning too.

As CHJ said never use a roughing gouge on a bowl blank not even to rough the blank to a round keep it for spindle work. Most of my work is carried out with the basic tools, but I keep the roughing gouge for spindle work only and would never dream of using it for bowl work or cross grain work.

 

[Rlewisrlou66]

What is the right tool then?

 

[Harry 48]

A bowl gouge :roll:

 

[JimB]

A bowl gouge :roll:

Now why do they call it that? :twisted:

 

[Rlewisrlou66]

I know that guys I was just being snarky because even though they told me what not to use on several occasions not once did they suggest an alternative. Lol

 

[CHJ]

I know that guys I was just being snarky because even though they told me what not to use on several occasions not once did they suggest an alternative. Lol

That's probably because an experienced turner will select an appropriate tool for the task in hand, and this could be a significantly different choice having a visual appraisal of any particular piece.

The short "Don't use that tool" response over a text message is usually a cry for STOP, you are likely as an inexperienced turner to have an accident. That being the thing foremost in most turners minds.
Others less used to being 'instructors' may not appreciate the need for addition advice in situ.

Without standing alongside you looking at the job on the lathe the best most people can do is point you to a written explanation of which tool to use for maximum safety and ease of use until you have had practice enough to make your own appraisal.