New workshop build

[gerard b]

662EF173-9AC9-4540-B883-FE13F3241091 by Gerard Barrett, on Flickr

72FADF2C-82B9-45B0-831E-2C4D3B978AFE by Gerard Barrett, on Flickr

 

[gerard b]

Well I figured out how to do pictures thanks to DBT85 for the help.

 

[DBT85]

No problem! looking like a good start!

 

[MikeG.]

.......Plan was to go with 9x2’s (220mm) and they come in 5.4m lengths where I’m buying my timber, above that size and as you say, they get pricey.

My tables suggest that isn't strong enough. Your choice.

Is it just a matter of doing a taper cut the full length of the 9x2 to make the firring strips?

Yep, that's it. You essentially cut long thin wedges and nail them on top of the joists.

 

[gerard b]

.......Plan was to go with 9x2’s (220mm) and they come in 5.4m lengths where I’m buying my timber, above that size and as you say, they get pricey.

My tables suggest that isn't strong enough. Your choice.

Thanks Mike, if that's the case, it's just going to have to be 10x2's.

With regards the firring strips, could you do it with a circular saw? I'm thinking 60:1 for the fall (or would 80:1 be ok). Could you just run down a length of 10x2 with the circular saw to get the taper. Any idea what height i'd need to do, i.e from what height tapered down to zero?

 

[MikeG.]

No, you can't subtract from the joists. You have to add to them. Cutting the slope into them will weaken them (and remove the treatment as a secondary problem).

 

[gerard b]

No, you can't subtract from the joists. You have to add to them. Cutting the slope into them will weaken them (and remove the treatment as a secondary problem).

Sorry Mike, I didn't explain that very well. I didn't mean I would taper cut the actual roof joists. I meant using another 9x2 (or whatever size is required) to cut the firring strips from, then attach these firring strips to the top of the joists.

 

[DBT85]

Gerard, are you building this to be 2.5m at the eaves and under 3m total, or under 2.5m total?

EDIt: never mind, i recall planning is not an issue for you.

Still. I cut all 26 rafters for mine today. It's really not too hard and you'd have so much more volume to work in.

 

[Fil]

Gerard is that concrete a recent job done? Can i ask how much yoi paid per m3?

Only asking as it was around £100 pre covid, beat price seems to be £165 now. Thats for the mix on site stuff, rather than arives pre mixed, thats a bit less anyways

Im east london / essex area.

 

[gerard b]

Overall height at the moment I’ve got at 2967, that’s without the firring strips. I have to work out how to measure those to get the desired fall.

Got a call from timber yelled today though to say there is a delay with my order, it was supposed to be here today but looking like next Monday now. On the plus side, the nailer arrived yesterday.

 

[gerard b]

Gerard is that concrete a recent job done? Can i ask how much yoi paid per m3?

Only asking as it was around £100 pre covid, beat price seems to be £165 now. Thats for the mix on site stuff, rather than arives pre mixed, thats a bit less anyways

Im east london / essex area.

Well I’m in Ireland so not much use to you. It was €90 per cubic metre.

 

[DBT85]

Gerard is that concrete a recent job done? Can i ask how much yoi paid per m3?

Only asking as it was around £100 pre covid, beat price seems to be £165 now. Thats for the mix on site stuff, rather than arives pre mixed, thats a bit less anyways

Im east london / essex area.

£100 a cube sounds cheap unless it's the ex vat price. Mine ran to about £135 Inc vat. Most quotes I had were about the same but I'm in the Midlands.

 

[gerard b]

I was reading through Steve Maskery's brilliant workshop build thread the last few days and came across his square of Thales. Since I'm still waiting for my timber to arrive, I decide to make one and what a great tool it is. I think it's going to be of great assistance when it comes to layout and getting everything square.
3CD5E3A7-CAB8-425C-98D3-135C9D63D53F by Gerard Barrett, on Flickr

 

[DBT85]

It certainly has its uses but when you start framing you only need to get it mostly square on the floor, nail it together and then measure the diagonals to get it bang on, then secure it with some sheet material or a batten. Thales square will be good for sorting out other bits.

 

[gerard b]

It certainly has its uses but when you start framing you only need to get it mostly square on the floor, nail it together and then measure the diagonals to get it bang on, then secure it with some sheet material or a batten. Thales square will be good for sorting out other bits.

I was thinking it would be most use when getting the bottom plate square. I'll be using a double bottom plate with the first plate anchored into the concrete (I know a brick plinth is better :wink: ) but this is how I decide to go, it'll have a dpm under it and the cladding will extend below it.

 

[DBT85]

Still better to just measure the diagonals. If you know your timbers are the correct length then if the diagonals match its done.

Yhe diagonals at least measure over the entire distance covered, bit just the length of your Thales.

I wish you luck, with cladding and plates that close to the ground your workshop might not last as long as you would hope!

 

[gerard b]

Well it's been a while since my last update but I've made some progress in the last couple of weeks. Weather has been rubbish and I'm working on my own but here I've got the walls framed out and erected.

IMG-5077 by Gerard Barrett, on Flickr

Here is with the roof timbers going up.

IMG-5080 by Gerard Barrett, on Flickr

These 2 pics show the roof timbers all up including the noggins (think that's what they're called).

IMG-5086 by Gerard Barrett, on Flickr

IMG-5087 by Gerard Barrett, on Flickr

Fascia boards are next up and then I've got to somehow get 32 sheets of osb up there on my own. I think I should probably put at least some sheets of osb on the walls first just to give the structure some rigidity before I start climbing up on the roof.

Hopefully I'll have some further updates after the weekend, if the weather stays dry.

 

[gerard b]

I decided to go with sloped walls rather than the firring strips on the roof. It was actually much easier than I thought. I just marked the walls up with chalk lines on the floor and then lined up and cut my studs from this.

 

[MikeG.]

Walls straight on the concrete. Why oh why do people do this?

 

[gerard b]

Walls straight on the concrete. Why oh why do people do this?

I was pretty much expecting this comment and was reluctant to even do an update, sorry I did now, I think I'll leave it at that.