New workshop build options - advice and opinions welcome

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pooka

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Following a house move I’m looking to build, or have built, a workshop in my back garden. I’ve mulled over some options before but now that I’m actually planning to do it I’m discovering there are more options available than I’d realised. I’m having trouble comparing the various options though.

I’ve struggled to find information online comparing some of the options, hence this thread. I outline below some of the options I’ve considered and some of what I perceive, rightly or wrongly, to be the pros and cons of each. I’d be very interested, and grateful, to hear other peoples’ views on them.

I realise there are many variations on some of the options below - I’ve not even looked into options for the roof (pitched, flat, choice of material, etc.) as yet, for example - right now I’m stalled on the question of what to use for the basic shell. I’d welcome all suggestions though.

I’m looking at a space which is about 5m x 4m, external dimensions, this should still leave some usable garden for my 6yr old and also not require planning permission. In terms of floor I’m leaning towards painted concrete, I may cover it with something later if I find the need. I’m also thinking that I’ll line it internally with 12mm or 18mm ply to give me solid walls to hang things from. I want some amount of insulation to avoid condensation and just to make it a comfortable place to spend a few hours at a time at any time of year.

1) Block-built cavity wall shed
Pros:
* Can be fairly well insulated as part of the build, via insulation in cavity.
* Provides several options for external finish - render, paint, etc.
* Could be converted into an outdoor room if selling the house later, so could add value.

Cons:
* Expensive - I was quoted about 20,000euro by a builder though I’m not sure whether that is really representative.
* Thicker walls eat up valuable space inside.

2) Cavity-block built shed
Pros:
* Can be easily insulated as part of the build, via insulation on inner face of blocks
* Same flexible external finish options as above.
* Could be converted into an outdoor room if selling the house later, so could add value.

Cons:
* Perhaps an inner layer of insulation is not adequate? Then again, I won’t be living in the space so maybe it’ll be “enough”?

3) Insulated (with Kingspan) steel shed
Pros:
* Quick to put up, can be done in a day once the foundations are in place.
* Fairly economical - from initial checks it looks like 6,000euro could cover the shed plus foundations, for a shed with a solid PVC door plus two double-glazed windows.
* The shell itself should resist break-in attempts fairly well, I’m guessing.
* Walls eat less into the internal space.
* External finish requires no maintenance, or so the manufacturers claim.

Cons:
* Condensation might be an issue perhaps? One vendor told me I’d need to fire up a 6kW heater in the shed “every now and again” to keep dampness and condensation at bay, but perhaps this need would apply to the other build options too?
* It looks like what it is, a steel shed. There are alternative finish options available such as woodgrain-effect steel, but that doesn’t disguise it much, or PVC woodgrain effect but that is more fragile and significantly more costly.

4) Wooden shed - self build
Pros:
* As I’d be doing it myself I can choose my own design (that could prove to be a con, of course!).
* Cheapest option, probably, though I’ve not looked into this properly yet.
* Flexible options for insulation - I could just go with a wooden frame and slab it with insulated (SIP) panels perhaps, with render on the outside, though that could be a costly option in terms of materials and labour.
* Might be easier on the eye in the garden, depending on finish.

Cons:
* I’ve never built a shed, one of many reasons why this task could take me a long time.
* I could end up with an external finish which requires regular maintenance.
 
When I was faced with the same dilemma I went for option one, in fact block and brick cavity wall with double glazing and roof insulation. I've never regretted the decision.

Machinery is almost inaudible outside, so no complaints from neighbours. Can be kept warm all winter from a small wood burning stove and the internal walls retain some residual warmth for several days, meaning no condensation or rusty tools. Cooler in summer too, so glue-ups are more predictable. My workshop is in two parts divided by a large fire door, a treble garage where the bigger machines live, and a similarly sized "bench room" with a sprung wooden floor. If we ever sold the house it instantly becomes a large garage and a home office/studio.

Yes, it's by far the most expensive option, so expensive that I appreciate it's not realistic for many people, however if you can possibly run to it there are just so many advantages. In the past I've had plenty of workshops in wooden sheds and outbuildings, but I'm pretty happy to have left that behind!

Good luck.
 
Well I am coming to the end of my build and although I have made lots of mistakes along the way (for the whole world to see, unfortunately) there are many things I'm really glad I did. Here are my plus points, and they apply whatever construction you opt for.

  • Size - build it as big as you can get away with
    Electrics - put in as many sockets as you can
    Height - I used raised-tie trusses, and that gives me 11 ft to the ceiling That is good for swinging long lengths around and makes the lighting nice and even
    Lighting - I used 6500K tubes and it is a very nice working light
    Floor - the floor panels I used are great. Nice to walk on, completely non-slip. I had painted concrete in my last place and it was horrible. Never again. Hard on the feet, slippery when dusty, and it was always dusty.

HTH
Steve
 
A timber structure correctly built would be very long lasting.

Such a construction would be built with 4 x 2 or even 6 x 2 studwork. Celetex insulation in between or partly in between and over on the outside face. The building would then be covered in breathable membrane, tyvek housewrap or similar. The next part is really important; 50 x 25mm battens fitted vertically. The outer skin could be timber featheredge or for a maintenance free option, Marley eternit boarding.


The cheapest door and window options would be upvc.

The roof could be pitched and tiled, or a flat roof and fitted with epdm.

If you could stretch to 100mm of celetex type insulation, you would need minimal heating and no condensation problems.

Tyvek and kingspan have downloads showing timber frame construction.

If you want somebody to build it, I would suggest getting a builder / groundworker for the base and then a chippie for the walls.
 
+1 for timber. It's interesting that timber frame, or factory/site-made panels are the norm for building up here in Scotland, whereas they still seem to be regarded with disfavour in Englandshire.
 
Whatever option you go for insulate the floor, it makes such a difference to the comfort levels in the winter whether you heat the workshop or not.
Bill
 
from what country are you?
have just finished building a ~100m2 proper 2 storey block house here by myself for ~14,000eur in Eastern Europe ,that includes finishing all the inside as well to the living standard.
I'm planing to build now a workshop/summer house in UK for myself of about 24m2 from Timber and have calculated it to cost about ~2100 pounds to finish,using some 2nd hand materials as well.
this is the thing I want to build for myself:
!C!QNwbgBWk~$(KGrHqMOKi8EzwNljqhCBNCOi+d7y!~~_1.JPG


you can knock one up for right around ~2grand for that size, I did the calculations to the last bolt already and that includes proper flooring as well and electricity.
one of the most expensive things in whole process are the windows/folding doors but you can get used ones from ebay for 5x less and save $hitloads, I have seen people charge 20k To build such a building which is just nuts if you ask me.. There might be additonal costs for planing permissions tho IF you have to get them, but if you stick to the size limit to which you dont need that stuff ,even better!
Obviously that price is for self-build and doesn't includes labor, but since you are asking in this forum I bet you could build it yourself as well!
 
If you can use a measuring tape and cut timber square, go for a self build. I've almost finished mine ( I would have pics up but can't get the resolution low enough). I made. 7x4m workshop/ office out of Timber frame and lined with larch, fully insulated and electric for 5k but once tallied up probably closer to 6k once fully finished. If you send me your email address I'll fire you some pics for ideas. Probably wouldn't take much longer than a builder as their pains in the ass to start and finish on time. Plus the launch requires little maintaince.
 
Trigs":1elmfm7p said:
If you can use a measuring tape and cut timber square, go for a self build. I've almost finished mine ( I would have pics up but can't get the resolution low enough). I made. 7x4m workshop/ office out of Timber frame and lined with larch, fully insulated and electric for 5k but once tallied up probably closer to 6k once fully finished. If you send me your email address I'll fire you some pics for ideas. Probably wouldn't take much longer than a builder as their pains in the ass to start and finish on time. Plus the launch requires little maintaince.
this... Its much faster to do it yourself than to wait for someone to do the job, also its not like you are building a whole house, it won't even take that long, by the time you find someone who is ready to do the task you can already be done with it.
can you send me some pics as well?
I think they resize automaticly if you post them here.
 
Thanks for the replies, some very useful in there.

I have to say that my heart has always been set on building my own workshop, which would realistically have to mean a timber build, circumstance might end up dictating otherwise but in the meantime I'm enthusiastically gathering ideas. Trigs, I'll send you my mail address via PM, I'd be very interested to see those pictures.

sitefive, I'm in Ireland. Build prices here seem a bit random, to say the least - I'm probably picking the wrong time to get quotes, the building industry seems to be in recovery which might help explain the high prices. Even getting a quote is a challenge, in fact. I ended up looking at steel sheds almost in desperation as a quick and economical solution, they were actually recommended to me by two different builders, but they seem a but soul-less somehow.
 
also what about just going on ebay and bid on some used large summer house/office? Had a look and you can get some good looking proper ~30m2 stuff for around a grand in auctions, the only problem is transporting them tho.
 
This is an interesting topic as I've had to make a very similar decision...having recently had planning approved for a pitched roof build, 7x7m square (44m2 approx) clad in Cedar (so it ages up nice and blends in with garden :D )

Initially we had some quotes in to build the project as a whole in either block or timber . The thinking being that I'd be better staying at work earning and maybe I'd be too fussy over the construction details :lol: PLUS - with a team on the job it could be completed faster. However... the quotes have been crazy big, three coming in it at nearly £40k, approx £800 per sq/m! :shock:... AND... this was with us supplying the Cedar Cladding, trim, windows and doors! I can only think that the UK builders must be having a boom at the mo, wanting £10-15k to stick in their back pocket before they even break earth!

So the quotes have decided it for us... Groundwork contractor in for trenching and slab up to a 3 course brick and DPC ...and dust off the tool belt for some timber frame action (hammer).

I'd be really grateful to hear thoughts and tips regarding sound insulation from those with Timber Frame builds and perhaps the performance they are achieving (Steve & Trigs?). Internet research suggests, if done right, acoustic performance is comparable between timber and brick (OUR PLAN: 150mm timber frame, RW slabs as acoustic/thermal insulation and double plasterboard hung on sound breaker bars).

Cheers Jim
 
Regarding sound:
My biggest noise producer is the P/T with the DX on.
I downloaded an app for my phone to measure the sound levels. Right by the machine it registered 90-odd db, and outside with the door closed it was measuring 70-something. I forget the exact numbers.
So it is audible, but not awful and it's not like it is close to the houses. It should e better than that when I have the siding on and some proper big doors made. The temp ones have sagged a bit and do not fit very well now.
 
jimmy rivers":26bumd6n said:
This is an interesting topic as I've had to make a very similar decision...having recently had planning approved for a pitched roof build, 7x7m square (44m2 approx) clad in Cedar (so it ages up nice and blends in with garden :D )

Initially we had some quotes in to build the project as a whole in either block or timber . The thinking being that I'd be better staying at work earning and maybe I'd be too fussy over the construction details :lol: PLUS - with a team on the job it could be completed faster. However... the quotes have been crazy big, three coming in it at nearly £40k, approx £800 per sq/m! :shock:... AND... this was with us supplying the Cedar Cladding, trim, windows and doors! I can only think that the UK builders must be having a boom at the mo, wanting £10-15k to stick in their back pocket before they even break earth!

So the quotes have decided it for us... Groundwork contractor in for trenching and slab up to a 3 course brick and DPC ...and dust off the tool belt for some timber frame action (hammer).

I'd be really grateful to hear thoughts and tips regarding sound insulation from those with Timber Frame builds and perhaps the performance they are achieving (Steve & Trigs?). Internet research suggests, if done right, acoustic performance is comparable between timber and brick (OUR PLAN: 150mm timber frame, RW slabs as acoustic/thermal insulation and double plasterboard hung on sound breaker bars).

Cheers Jim

i cant comment on the noise as i dont have any machines in there yet, plus i live in the sticks so only the birds will be bothered.

Check out Gumtree for windows/doors and insulation, they're always coming up, I just missed out on 18rolls of 150mm insulation for £150, ended up spending £220 for a lot less rolls just to get it done.

Also try local sawmills if you have any, I got mine for £710 for overlap larch as opposed to the £2400 for a kiln dried tounge and groove profile
 
Well, my shed is up. The house itself is proving to be a real headache, it was originally badly built by people that either didn't know how or simply didn't care, and having had the heating system pipework replaced did the sub-floors no favours. The end result is that the list of jobs that need doing on the house is growing rather than shrinking. A few months ago I'd have considered replacing subfloors as something I'd leave to a qualified carpenter, at this stage I'm attacking exposed (high) joists with an electric plane without a second thought. Fitting it in around a day job though makes for slow progress.

So with Christmas looming, my time being eaten up by the house, and the usable parts of the house filled beyond capacity with my machinery and tools, I opted for the quickest option and bought myself an insulated steel shed. It actually doesn't look bad, we chose a pale grey colour so it's less harsh than something brighter and also blends in better than the dark green we'd been considering. It's still obviously a steel shed but I opted for shiplap effect for the front face and that works well to soften the visual impact.

It's basically a steel framework wrapped in insulated panels, they suggest there are no thermal bridges but while it seems to get close I don't believe it entirely achieves that. Each panel has an outer steel face, then solid Kingspan insulation, then an inner steel face finished in white which makes for a fairly bright interior. The wall panels have 60mm insulation, the roof panels have 80mm. When erecting it they stuffed earthwool insulation in the hollows between joins, such as at the roof ridge. The foundation/slab itself has 50mm insulation in it. I opted for two clear panels in the side of the ridged roof facing away from the house - they are a double-layer corrugated plastic, I worried about them being an easy way in for thieves but the shed suppliers didn't consider that a significant risk. They reckon it would be easier and quicker for someone to break a window to get in, which is a fair point. The panels add some very useful light.

I opted for double PVC doors, each half-glazed, and a large window either side of the doors. All of the glass is double-glazed and argon filled. I like the idea of getting lots of light into the shed, hence all the glass, but it obviously sacrifices wall hanging space and it will take some thought to figure out the best way to secure the shed as a result - I'm thinking of a plywood panel mounted inside each window/door pane, which I can remove while I'm in there, but it'll be an interesting challenge to find a workable and convenient way of doing that. The insulated panels themselves can't support much weight so mostly I'll be restricting myself to attaching anything to the steel framework pieces.

I don't want to think about the price too much. The spec and size of the shed changed over time, upwards every time of course, and the price followed suit. Instead of leaving the existing ramshackle wooden shed in place and adding the planned new shed, we tore down the wooden shed and increased the size of the steel shed so that it can act as both workshop and also storage for commute bikes and some gardening tools. It ended up being 7m x 3.5m, which feels huge but there is no such thing as a shed which is too big, obviously :) The cost came to just under 10,000euro for the shed itself, plus a little under 2,400euro for the insulated slab. That's a lot more than I'd anticipated when I first started looking at steel sheds but I realised early on that not all steel sheds are created equal, and this one is a class above the other brands that I considered.

The (rebated) insulated slab was put down over 2 days, it helped that the space was relatively clear and fairly flat. Two weeks later it took about 3 hours for a team of 4 guys to erect the shed. The slab guys then came back and filled the gap between the raised portion of foundation and the walls of the shed, with concrete, they laid a thin insulating layer between the concrete and the shed wall. So the floor inside the shed is a couple of inches or so higher than the base of the shed, hopefully water shouldn't get in.

The finished shed has only been in place for 2 weeks now, I've had an industrial dehumidifier in there for all that time and it has certainly pulled quite a lot of water from the foundation. It's still pulling water out, at a guess I'd say about 1.5L over 24 hours, I was optimistically hoping that it would be dried out by now but clearly not.

Next up I need to wire it for lighting and plug sockets, I've run some Cat6 network cables to it too thinking it might be handy to have convenient Internet access in there (Internet radio, looking up plans online, etc.), and I've run a house alarm cable to it too. So various decisions to be made now, which I'll raise in another post as this one is already long enough.

In short though, I'm happy with the shed so far. My preference would still be to build a wooden shed myself, maybe I'll get to do that some day. The dehumidifier has been keeping the shed quite warm, even on some of the colder days this week, so the insulation seems to be doing its job well. So based on how it has worked out so far I'd say that a good steel shed is worth considering by anyone looking for a workshop, albeit at a price.

Edit: Forgot to add, thanks again for all the advice earlier, I found it very useful.
 
Now that the shed is up I have a new set of challenges, and questions, I'd welcome opinions, experiences, and advice. My current thoughts/plans, some of it just me thinking aloud, are:

Foundations:
---------------
* As I mentioned above, the dehumidifier is running 24 hours a day and is still producing something like 1.5L of water per day. It was producing twice that, or more, last week but although it's now producing less the amount it's producing per day seems fairly consistent. The foundations are obviously not dry yet. My plan is to paint the slab, the painted finish will be my floor, but while I'd really like to believe the concrete is dry enough to be painted now I'm guessing that painting it as is would be a bad idea. Anyone have experience of painting concrete and if so is it absolutely necessary for it to be thoroughly dry? I could rent the dehumidifier for another week but it's not cheap so if I can avoid that I'd really like to.

Lighting:
----------
* I'd been thinking of installing 4x double fluorescent tubes, but the structural steel inside the shed divides the space into three portions (and the dividing steel members are really too low to mount lights directly to). So now I'm considering 3x double fluorescent tubes instead, attached to the highest point of the roof in each section. Or I could go with 6x double tubes, attached to the sloping parts of the roof. Figuring out how much light is too much is tricky, I'd be interested in the experiences of others. Whatever I opt for, I plan to split the lights across 2 switches, maybe 3 depending on layout.

* I'd intend to plug in desktop lights or similar, as needed, to act as task lighting for workbench etc.

* I might install a spotlight on the outside of the shed, in case I end up doing any work outside the shed and need the extra light. It might be overkill though, I've not thought it through yet. I'm also wary of piercing that steel outer face either with screws or with cable, but I reckon I could avoid both with some thought and careful planning.

Plug sockets:
---------------
* I've got to work this through properly yet but I'm certainly going to run at least 2 general (radial) circuits. In addition I'll run dedicated circuits for heavy power users - an electrician has suggested to me that anything that draws 1,800W or more would ideally be on a dedicated circuit of its own which would mean dedicated circuits for: thicknesser (1,800W), dust collector (2x 1,000W), maybe even my largest router (2,000W). I don't have a table saw, but now that I have space... So, that's potentially 4 dedicated circuits plus 2 general circuits. I could share a "dedicated" circuit of course, I don't foresee having both my thicknesser and router running at the same time for example, but I don't want to restrict myself from the outset either unless I really have to.

* In addition to deciding on number and nature of circuits I need to decide how many sockets per circuit and plan where to locate them. That's a bit of challenge now, with my previous small space I knew what I wanted and where, now I feel almost spoiled for choice which adds a bit to the challenge.

* I'm debating whether I want a plug socket(s) suspended from the ceiling. Could be very useful when using a circular saw on a cutting table in the middle of the floor, or for any scenario where I might want free access around a table without worrying about tripping over a power cable. It shouldn't be difficult to achieve but if anyone knows of a neat way of doing this offhand, something like a retractable cord attached to suspended plug socket for example, then I'm all ears.

* Plastic plug sockets or metal ones? Metal ones are usually a lot more expensive but their robustness is their appeal for me. Anyone have particularly good or bad experiences with either option?

* I'm thinking that an outdoor plug socket(s) would be useful too if working outside the workshop. I could drill a hole through the wall of the shed, run the cable through and seal around it using something like Tec7, or I could run a cable out through the conduit I'll use to run cables into the shed. Drilling the hole is perhaps easier but the latter option wouldn't be much work really and avoids piercing the shed so it's more appealing. Either way though I have to decide where and how to mount the outdoor sockets, again to avoid piercing the shed outer layer, maybe stick a spike in the ground and mount them on that instead of the shed?

Fusebox/Distribution board:
---------------------------------
* From what I understand the options here are 12-way, 18-way, or 24-way. I gather that I'll lose about 4 of those straight away so given my thoughts above re various circuits I should be looking at an 18-way or a 24-way. I'm always inclined to give myself more options/flexibility longer term so I'm wondering whether there is a disadvantage to going for a 24-way? I'll be getting an electrician to install it, not least because I want to live long enough to actually use the shed, but it's a question I forgot to ask him.

Trunking:
-----------
* I'll install the trunking (and circuit cabling) myself, leaving the distribution board end to the electrician. I'd been thinking of using PVC trunking (100mm x 50mm) and mounting plug sockets to the face of it using the appropriate back boxes but electrician suggests metal trunking instead. He reckons the PVC might not be robust enough. Cost might be a factor here, I've priced the PVC at somewhere in the region of 400euro to 500euro incl. VAT (trunking, bends, backboxes, etc., plug sockets would be extra) but I've not priced the metal trunking as yet. Anyone have good or bad experiences of PVC versus metal trunking?
 
In no particular order.
Metal clad sockets rather than plastic.
Have you considered DADO trunking makes it very easy to alter things later rather than mounting sockets on separate trunking (unless I misunderstood)
Lighting Daylight tubes in the florescent fittings (6500K) you could put a pull cord switch on each fitting, my personal preference is for Klik type fittings, put more in than you think you need then its easy to alter or add at a later date.

Two Radials for general power one socket every metre or so, a bit closer where you site chargers/radio/kettle things that dont move much.
Based on your above post at least four 16A or 20A outlets for the bigger stuff. get the sockets with an isolator as its easier to turn something off rather than wrestle with a plug in a hurry. If you wanted you could always put the power on contactors and wire in a few stop buttons.
Overhead socket outlet, either on a bungee type cord or retractable.

Find a decent wholesaler or use your electricians account for a good discount.
I'll dig out a few links when I get a chance.

ohhh PS we want pics of the shed :)
 
12 way Distribution board is more than ample. Use C type MCB's on the 16A/20A supplies for the larger equipent.

Klik style fittings for the lights. other makes are available.
https://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Produc...W34GV2avV5hZyuDk3r-0AiYmno8mHimtMUaAjKA8P8HAQ

Dado trunking
https://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Main_Index/Trunking_Pvc_Index/Dado_Trunking_SLC/index.html
Cheaper option
https://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Main_Index/Trunking_Pvc_Index/Maxi_42_Univolt/index.html

or I'd go for metalclad sockets with heavy gauge PVC conduit. You can make it simple and easily adaptable by running a length of 50 x 50 trunking round at high level and then straight drops down to the sockets.

retractable ceiling socket, or to save some pennies a trailing socket with a bungee cord
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/like/2518...ICEP3.0.0-L&ff14=122&viphx=1&ops=true&ff13=80

Lighting wise, depending on layout you may be better going for more single fl. fittings to cut down on the shadows, I understand you have three sections so perhaps 2 x 4' singles per section. Thats the beauty of the klik sockets, put in more than you think you need, you can try a couple of light fittings then add more later. HF fittings with daylight tubes or if you are feeling flush LED equivalent.
https://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Products/GLSW128HF.html

I have been advised by a professional to use a concrete cleaner prior to painting and wait for warmer weather before painting my floor. I'd return the dehumidifier and let it dry naturally.
 
Thanks a lot for the info, and the links.

Yes, dado trunking is the plan. I'm down to three options:
a) PVC trunking (100x50mm) with plug sockets set into the trunking.
b) Metal trunking (100x50mm) with plug sockets set into the trunking.
c) Metal trunking (100x50mm or 50x50mm) with plug sockets mounted to the top of the trunking. That's similar to your suggestion but eliminating the drops.

Options a) and b) are neater, in some respects, but they both involve buying suitable backboxes or frames to be set into the trunking, which adds quite a bit to the cost. On the other hand, option c) needs nothing like that as the metal plug sockets each come with their own metal backbox and that can bolt directly onto the trunking, plus adding any further cables later is a little easier as there are no plugs sockets in the way along the length of the trunking. Option c) also saves the effort involved in cutting the face plates to length, but on the other hand it'll require a lot more drilling of holes for bolts and cable to run up into the plug sockets.

Some other obvious arguments in favour of metal trunking are its robustness and its resistance to fire. You can never tell, I guess, but I would hope to never put either of those features to the test. I can see the advantages of metal clad sockets though.

I hadn't even thought of isolators for some of the sockets but it makes a lot of sense, thanks for the pointer. I should possibly also think of some kind of central emergency/panic button for all of the plug circuits, though I'm not sure that's actually possible, but a panic button per circuit would be feasible I guess.

That Sealey retractable socket looks ideal for my purposes. I asked about options for that in an electrical wholesaler over the weekend and they believed that any such option would be extremely expensive, so that Sealey looks good value too.

Re lighting, I'd overlooked the option of installing single tubes. but given the space they may be more than adequate since I'd hope to have one single or double light on each slope of the roof (so 6 single/double lights in total). I'll probably install a PIR along with a switch for the two central lights, they'll line up with the door so it would be useful to have them come on automatically when someone enters. I've not looked at Klik type fittings before, they look useful though so something else for me to explore.

Re distribution board, I gather I'll lose 4 slots for the RCD plus something else I can't recall. Then 6, say, for plug circuits, 3 for lighting circuits, plus I may go for a dedicated MCB for an outdoor plug socket. I may also install an external spotlight but I guess I won't need an MCB just for that, though it may be simpler to wire it that way. Basically, I think I'm likely to reach or exceed the capacity of a 12-way from the start, so an 18-way seems like a safer bet.

One that that has become very obvious to me is that I've been grossly underestimating the cost of wiring the shed, I better make good use of it once I have it ready to use!
 
Some photos, not the best quality. The first shows the shed mid-construction so you can see what it looks like on the inside, the other shows the completed shed standing in the rain of an otherwise miserable day.

rsz_2015-11-05_104441.jpg


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