New table saw? Lumberjack TS1800

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Has any one else has the angle bevel shaft pop out the side of there machine?

20230319_115437.jpg
20230319_115437.jpg
 
It appears to be a captive ball, the diagram below show the angle adjustment shaft No61, part No62 is inside the case with parts No 63,64 and 65 between the case a part 62.


Lumberjacks TS1800 (Diagramme).png
 
It appears to be a captive ball, the diagram below show the angle adjustment shaft No61, part No62 is inside the case with parts No 63,64 and 65 between the case a part 62.


View attachment 156076
It should look like the images below - which Lumberjack have kindly provided.
 

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Would one of the owners of this saw kindly share the height and depth dimensions of the saw without the pressed steel base?
I'm considering an upgrade to this saw and trying to figure out what modifications I would need to make to my existing mobile workbench that currently hosts an evolution rage 5s. Thank you!
 
Hi,
The total height of the saw is 96cm and the base the saw sits on is 50cm tall, so just the saw is 46cm Tall.
the saw is 81cm deep by 144cm wide in total. The cast top alone with no fence rails or extension tables is 68.5cm deep by 51cm wide.
 
Hi,
The total height of the saw is 96cm and the base the saw sits on is 50cm tall, so just the saw is 46cm Tall.
the saw is 81cm deep by 144cm wide in total. The cast top alone with no fence rails or extension tables is 68.5cm deep by 51cm wide.
Super helpful, thanks. I'm thinking of doing the same thing as gazuzu. Do you think both fence rails need to be installed, or could the width be reduced by installing just one, and making do with, say, only one of the side extension tables? On my old ts200 I just have the extension table to the right, which seems to work fine for most things.
 
You can’t install just one fence rail.
The both the rails are used to clamp the fence in place.
I can’t see how you could use the fence with only one rail.
You could have a fence on your workbench which you set the saw into, using just the cast table top for the mitre slots.
 
Super helpful, thanks. I'm thinking of doing the same thing as gazuzu. Do you think both fence rails need to be installed, or could the width be reduced by installing just one, and making do with, say, only one of the side extension tables? On my old ts200 I just have the extension table to the right, which seems to work fine for most things.
Since getting these very helpful measurements from @JimTaylor and confirm I could alter my workbench to host it I have made the decision to go for it, and just finished installing it.
So far impressions are good, there's a bit of a dimple in the middle of the table where the throat is, pressed steel extensions are bit wavy, but otherwise great machine to use, far more robust than an Evo rage 5s.
Can't wait to get started on those 17 sheets of MDF in the background 😅
 

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You can’t install just one fence rail.
The both the rails are used to clamp the fence in place.
I can’t see how you could use the fence with only one rail.
You could have a fence on your workbench which you set the saw into, using just the cast table top for the mitre slots.
Ok, thanks. Yes, I see you need the fence rail on the front and back, but on some pictures it looks like the rail is in two sections.

I’ve since seen that some owners of the Ridgid-branded version have been able to reposition the fence rail to the right, so that may be one option.

The saw looks great, just trying to work out how to fit it into a relatively small space.
 
Since getting these very helpful measurements from @JimTaylor and confirm I could alter my workbench to host it I have made the decision to go for it, and just finished installing it.
So far impressions are good, there's a bit of a dimple in the middle of the table where the throat is, pressed steel extensions are bit wavy, but otherwise great machine to use, far more robust than an Evo rage 5s.
Can't wait to get started on those 17 sheets of MDF in the background 😅
That looks great - very much the sort of set up I’d be looking to build. Nice work!
 
Did I get the wrong end of the stick.
Front and back rails are in 2 parts, a short and long section. So you could just install one section with some sorting, as there are spikes which slot the two sections together.
The measures built into the front fence would be of no use.
Have seen a router table dropped into the space to the right side, which looks a good idea.
 
Did I get the wrong end of the stick.
Front and back rails are in 2 parts, a short and long section. So you could just install one section with some sorting, as there are spikes which slot the two sections together.
The measures built into the front fence would be of no use.
Have seen a router table dropped into the space to the right side, which looks a good idea.
Ah yes, that's what I meant - thank you. I've never had a saw that's been set up well enough to bother using the measures on the fence rail, so no major hardship. I've got a router table on the right in my current set up, which works really well.

Anyway, apols for diverting the thread.
 
It's worth pointing out that there seems to have been some updates to this saw since Keith's video.
It now seems to come with a slow blow fuse, as I've not had any electrical issues.

The harbour is still 5/8", but it now comes with a 30mm bore blade and a reducer from factory.
I don't remember if it was his video or another but I've seen pointed out the fact that the blade took a while to stop after turning the saw off, but this is no longer the case as it seems to come with some kind of electronic break now.

Keith praised the dust extraction on it but similar to others on the thread this hasn't been my finding, I find there is little suction on the throat even with the insert removed and whenever cutting anything there's lots of dust left on the surface.
This is using the Axminster 1.1kW dust extractor with a 100mm hose as well.

The blade guard monstrosity that comes with the saw is far bigger than it needs to be and doesn't have any dust ports unfortunately, one with overhead extraction would be nice to have since the main port at the bottom does very little.
 
That's really useful to know, thank you. Even with those few reservations, it does still seem to be a better compromise than the newer Axminster saws - on paper, at least.
 
Mine came with the slow blow fuses fitted. There doesn’t seem to be too much sawdust on the saw top when cutting, so the extraction seems OK to me, but I have not had another table saw to compare it with.
Mine came with a 5/8 blade, which are difficult to get and or expensive in the UK. Not needed to change the blade yet. I had a problem with the motor switching off after a minute, but was sorted by returning the machine and have the motor replaced,now all is good 🤞🤞
 
Hi I have had this saw for 18 months now and it works great. Aside from the fence needing a tweak every now and then (mainly after I've whacked it with a sheet of ply) its been reliable. In terms of the slow blow fuses, you need to factor in voltage drop in your workshop. My workshop is fed from my house by a 30m armoured cable. The resistance of this cable meant the voltage dropped just enough for the saw to constantly blow 13 amp fuses on start up. Especially if I fired the dust extractor up first. I added a 16 amp circuit for the saw in the end. For dust extraction I bought one of these blade guards and it makes a big difference. Axminster Professional 250/254mm Crown Guard
 
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