New saw handle (saw refurb.)

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Denis

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Croatia
Hi,

After more than a week (day job keeping me busy) I got back to making sawdust :)

After seeing so many nice saws, and lacking a proper dovetail saw, I thought about "pimping up" an old and rusty "combination" saw (i.e. one handle, several saw blades - the usual borg junk). The blade wasn't too bad (something like 15 TPI), but the rust got better of it, since it's been neglected in the garage for quite some time....

So, first a bath in some citric acid (easily obtainable here, just ask for "lemon acid" in a nearby pharmacy). About a pint of warm water and 4-5 teaspoons of powdered citric acid, about half an hour in the bath, and the blade cleaned up nicely. Not exactly like new, but definitely better than before.

Now, I really wanted to make a new handle - this forum was very helpful, as usual, and I managed to find some templates.

The wood was another problem - I didn't have a proper piece, so off to the local friendly carpenter, where I got a piece of ash (I think). The only problem was that it was more than 5 cm (about 2in.) thick, so resawing was in order. My puny little bandsaw can't resaw pieces higher than 11cm, and this was about 14cm :(
Since it was a weekend, no help was around, and I thought I might as well try resawing by hand - the galootish way :)
No, I don't have a bow saw, and I wasn't about to make one just for this, so I used the log saw I have.

Lo and behold, after about half an hour of sweating, I managed to resaw it!
Not perfectly, but the difference in thickness was about 1mm - good enough for gov't work! ;)
(I won't mention that I also managed to bump my index finger against the plank pretty badly when the log saw "jumped" on me.... A day later, and there's no swelling, nothing serious, doesn't even hurt any more, so not a big deal. You learn something new every day... No blood was drawn, and I still have all my fingers. I learned that you need to be careful with hand tools, too...)

Template was taped to the plank, the outline sawn on the bandsaw, and the rest of the work was done using a rasp (I've got to get a better one!), a scalpel (i.e. plastic xacto knock-off) and some sandpaper.

I don't have the original washers/nuts/whatever, so after some digging in the garage, I found something that just might do for the nuts... (see the photos below - I had to make the slots for the screwdriver with a hacksaw. Never mind the aesthetics - it works...)

Some linseed oil and a layer of wax, and here's the result (finally):

sawhandle_L.jpg


Not bad.... Fits my hand MUCH better than the plastic trash you can find in stores around here.


sawhandle_R.jpg


In short, I'm quite happy with the whole process and the result - first resawing by hand, first serious use of bandsaw, first serious use of the rasps, first use of citric acid bath (useful tip, that one!), etc.

Not really bad.
Now, I won't show you how the kerf for the blade looks - suffice to say it's less than straight :oops:
Alf's recent article was quite helpful, but I still managed to botch the kerf. Oh, well, it works, so it's not really a big deal. Yeah, right... :whistle:

Still, I've managed to affix the handle to the blade, and it does not wobble. I tried the "new" saw on a piece of pine, and it cuts just fine. Well, perhaps I'll have to sharpen the blade a bit, but still it's the best saw I currently have for cutting dovetails and such. (Not that I've made any dovetails as yet, but one's got to be prepared, right? 8-[ )

In short, what's the big deal, you might say, but it's quite an accomplishment for me - I'd still be patting myself on the back if my right arm wasn't still aching from that resawing job :) - for a workbench I have a sorry workmate knock-off, so any planing, sawing or resawing, particularly on pieces longer than 30cm can be quite a feat... ](*,)

(I think I see a "proper" workbench in my not too distant future. Well, perhaps - I'll probably have to build the extension to the garage first if I continue this way... :shock: )

Denis
 
Thanks everyone for the nice words. It's nowhere as nice as some of the work I've seen on this forum and elsewhere, but, like I said, it beats the plastic borg handles hands-down :)

Dave, it's really not a big deal. A bandsaw will come handy, but I'd have gone for it even without a bandsaw. A coping saw and some patience is all that's needed.

Alf has some VERY good (and recent, as I understand) instructions on the Lee Valley site, here.

A rasp and some sandpaper for final smoothing, and Bob's your uncle :)

Regards,

Denis
 
I know I'm being an idle sod but does anyone have links to templates?

I think I have the one Dennis (and Alf used) -can't remember where I found it, and "pumped it up" to 130% using the photocopier which nicely fit my hand.
I used this to make my TS push jigs :shock: :lol:


I'd like some templates for Stanley Style plane "woodwork" too, please.
 
Denis":1e43319z said:
The wood was another problem - I didn't have a proper piece, so off to the local friendly carpenter, where I got a piece of ash (I think).

Nice work, especially with limited facilities.

If you do another one, I would recommend a closer grained wood than ash, which is very coarse grained, and the soft grain can be very soft indeed - I've sometimes struggled with this when making small Axe handles.

I would recommend any of maple, beech, apple/pear ("fruitwood"), cherry or yew as excellent for saw handles. (edit - add walnut to this list)

The exotics would also work well, but are spendy (box, the dalbergia family etc)

BugBear
 
BB,

Regarding your recommendation for Cherry.
I have a big seasoned log from an ornimental cherry, is this the same?
Iam not even sure if its the same species, can you enlighten me?.

Also someone asked me to remove a damson tree the other day.
Worth saving???

Also I have some wood from a "mahogany" window frame - but its heavy stuff -and idea what it might be?

Dennis, sorry about the hijack!
 
lurker":2rk3h8z1 said:
Dennis, sorry about the hijack!

No sweat, sources for wood are always interesting.

As for templates, I've found a PDF on the Web site of "Tools for working wood" - it's instructions for their 9" dovetail saw, and there's a nice drawing of another saw handle - not the one that I used in the end, but also a very nice one:
http://www.toolsforworkingwood.com/prodimg/gt/pdf/GT-DKITXX_INST.pdf

Actually, I used a modified template found on these pages (Ken Muldrew's site):
http://www.ucalgary.ca/~kmuldrew/woodworking/revelations_1.html
(the link to PDF is on the bottom of the page).

I traced the image in CorelDraw and slightly modified the dimensions.

bugbear":2rk3h8z1 said:
If you do another one, I would recommend a closer grained wood than ash

Next one will probably be beech. I was looking primarily for walnut, apple, beech or maple, but my source didn't have any suitable smaller pieces, and they had a busy day, so I didn't want to annoy them by asking to saw/resaw a huge plank just for about a pound's worth of offcut. They had a nice piece of ash, and asked if that would be OK, and I said - yes, I could try that. For the first time, I thought I'd mess it up, anyway :)
Beech isn't hard to come by, but I'm on the prowl for a suitable THICK piece to be my future DIY plane (or planes, more likely)... More questions for Philly and other fine planemakers to follow soon :)

HTH,

Denis
 
Denis - excellent bit of work, I haven't made a saw handle yet or done a saw refurb but do agree a decent wooden handle beats plastic hands down - Rob
 
As an aside, since we're speaking of wood, I have a couple of short log pieces of olive :) Well seasoned (since last October/November, so almost a year)...

I'm keeping them for somethng REALLY special.

My wife looked at me really strange when, besides our usual stash of olive oil, lavender oil, red wine, vinegar and other delicacies from our family on the island of Hvar I took a couple of logs from the woodpile during our visit last February and put them together with everything else in the car trunk :)

I mean, they're actually burning olive wood :eek:

Denis
 
Denis wrote -
I mean, they're actually burning olive wood
I've only used a bit of olive once to do some turning.....fantastic stuff, far too good to burn :shock: ....would probably make rather pleasant plane bodies and saw handles, (if you can it your part of the world in respectable sizes)....just a thought :wink: - Rob
 
woodbloke":20tga0qt said:
I've only used a bit of olive once to do some turning.....fantastic stuff, far too good to burn :shock: ....would probably make rather pleasant plane bodies and saw handles, (if you can it your part of the world in respectable sizes)....just a thought :wink: - Rob

Well, I've been thinking along the same lines. I might try to find a piece of straight olive log - a bit larger and thicker than what I have now - and see if I can use it for a plane.

I must admit I've never seen a wooden plane made of olive wood, so I don't know if that's a good idea. I guess I'll have to try and see for myself. ;)

Denis
 
Denis - from my limited experience of working with Olive, I don't think that it's all that hard and resilient so that I think a separate sole for a plane would be needed, made from something much harder, maybe a bit of bubinga. When you do have a go I would also make a smaller plane to start with so that if mistakes are made, then not too much of that lovely timber has been wasted....plenty of excellent info on the forum on making planes tho' - Rob
 
woodbloke":2fpnhsrc said:
Denis - from my limited experience of working with Olive, I don't think that it's all that hard and resilient

I'll happily believe your experience.

But...

can't you get olivewood mortar and pestles?

BugBear
 
BB - you're right :D, forgot all about that. Will have to do a bit of Googling tonight to see if I can find out the density of Olive. For turning purposes it seemed to cut very smoothly and evenly....didn't appear to be all that hard, but will have to do some investigating - Rob
 
woodbloke":3jr0gbsj said:
BB - you're right :D, forgot all about that. Will have to do a bit of Googling tonight to see if I can find out the density of Olive. For turning purposes it seemed to cut very smoothly and evenly....didn't appear to be all that hard, but will have to do some investigating - Rob

I have no information about olive wood (and have never worked it).

I just remembered that particular usage.

It's also (I know remember) used for carvings-for-tourists in the holy land.

Any further info you can find will be well received, I'm sure.

BugBear
 
BB - had a PM from Waka last night, Olivewood is about 50-55lbs cu' so harder than I thought. With that sort of density a separate sole for a plane may well not be needed.
Waka - many thanks again for the info - Rob
 
Does hardness and wear resistance always increase with density in wood? It doesn't in metal, think lead and steel.

John
 

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