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Mcluma

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I have made thise Coffee table (pictures later) but it need a glass table top

I want the table top to sit about 20 to 30 mm above the table frame, now are there these chrome or aluminum spacers with a aluminum cap.

To decribe it better the spacer needs to be about 20mm high and a diameter of about 20mm then then a bolt through facility through the glass with a 8 to 10mm cap

So i will have wholes through the glass to hold the glass fixed to the table

Ok i hope i am clear on this. but who sells these things

Thanks in advance
McLuma
 
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Anonymous

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I recently needed a piece of glass for a shelf so i telephoned Peterlee glass they said that they could make it for me but it had to be toughend i would think that the piece you need will have to be the same as it is for a table and if someone fell on it i would hate to think what will happen if its ordinary glass, but believe me its not cheap if you telephone your local glass company they will be able to make what you need.

Cheers,
Derek.
 

jasonB

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Having a metal working lathe, I don't have this problem, I make what I need as you can see

http://photobucket.com/albums/v156/jaso ... CT0011.jpg

You can get similar fixings from specialist sign makers, they are used to space glass & perspex signs off walls, I can get you some names at the weekend or try a search under signs.

Jason
 

Mcluma

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Jason

YOU ARE THE MEN :p :p :p

Thanks

Oh and yes, of course its thoughend glass

I was going to ask my dad to make some, but he was to busy, so i thougd about buying them ready made

McLuma
 

Mcluma

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Jason,

Out of interest,

What thickness is the glass you have been using for the table :?:

Thanks

McLuma
 

jasonB

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The one in the pic has a 10mm top & 8mm shelf, both toughened, the top is 1000x700mm.

Jason
 

SimonA

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Hi Guys....just thought I'd ask, but can you drill holes in toughened glass? From my poor memory I don't think you can, but then again its not unlike me to be wrong!

I tend to use Pilkington for all my glass and mirror needs and have found them to be more than helpfull and not that badly priced for made to measure pieces. For example I got a 1200x400x6 mirror with a 40mm bevel for £52. The turn around is usually two days from me placing the order.

SimonA
 

Mcluma

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I ordered the other day from my local supplier two mirrors 220by29 with four holes each for Gbp86,- and delivered to my door

Had just the quote for my table which is 1100 by 1100 thoughened 8mm glass with 4 holes for 180 with bevelled edges

I think however that i will go with 10mm or 12mm glass (just to be on the safe side)
 

SimonA

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Thats expensive fella.....I made a table for a friend before Xmas which had a 900x900x10 toughened glass top and that was only £80.

It might be worth you seeing if theres a Pilkington near you?

Can the price rocket up with the addition of four holes? Would be interesting to see how much it would have been with out the holes.

SimonA
 

jasonB

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SinonA, all the cutting, polishing & drilling has to be done to the glass before it is toughened - heated and then cooled by air, not sure of temp but it glows red. Once it has been toughened you can't do anything with it so make sure you always treble check your sizes :wink:

Jason
 

tim

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Its also the bevelling that will pump the cost up. It is a lot of money but it may not be too far off. In my experiences there is quite a lot of variability in the quality of polishing and bevelling so its not always wise (as is so often the case ) to go for the cheapest. Also not all glaziers do their own toughening so there may be a couple of extra margins in there that you may be able to remove by finding suppliers who can do both.

For comparison, the mirrors I had cut, bevelled and polished for those cabinets I did for the shop in London (posted last year - can't fnd the link at the mo) were c £2k per cabinet. :shock:

Cheers

Tim
 

Steve Maskery

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I made an oval coffee table last year, glass top, no holes. I made a template 1100x70 and gave it to my glazier. THey don't have facilities for toughening, but a few days later I got a call from the man doing the job far away, who asked me if the glass was sitting in a frame or was free-standing. It's free standing, says I, why? Because your template is not a perfect ellipse, says he, it's over a millimetre out. He, of course, was cutting it on a CNC machine and could profile it accurately. He did the right thing in asking me, too.

Anyway, this cost me about £100, IIRC, although I had been quoted £150 for the same thing elsewhere. A week after delivering it, I got a call from the customer saying the glass was chipped. It was too. Dead centre of one edge, like it had been stood on its side. Which it had - it was against a wall when I went to collect it, although the floor was rubber. Of course, no-one was gong to admit liability It went from my suppliers into the back of my car, straight to the client. They say they hadn't knocked it. I say it didn't happen in my car (wrapped in a blanket), my supplier says it was fine when they gave it to me. In the end we all agreed that
1. I would do the running around
2. My supplier would supply a replacement at cost price.
3. My client would pay me at cost and claim on their insurance.

That way we all had a bit of bother but none of us was out of pocket. The second one cost me just over £70 BTW.

Ah the joys of being self-employed.

Cheers
Steve
 

SimonA

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Cheers Jason.....I didn't think you could do anything once the glass had been toughened, but its always good to have a second opinion :D Also because I deal direct with the manufacturer, missing out the middle man, the prices I'm charged are a little bit cheaper. Having said that I can see the prices escalating out of control if your adding all the extras, holes, bevels, thoughened and custom shapes!

SimonA.
 

Taffy Turner

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The toughening process for glass works by heating the glass, and then deliberately cooling it unevenly. This results in stresses being induced into the glass, which makes it much tougher, and also causes it to shatter into small fragments if it does get broken.

However, the induced stress means that once the glass has been toughened, any attempts to cut or drill it will almost certainly cause it to shatter, hence the need to do all the cutting work before toughening.
 

Mcluma

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Well Many thanks Jason,

I found them, ordered them and I have them here,

Hopefully I will get the table build next week and can show the complete work



 
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McLuma

Taffy's comments about the process of making toughened glass got me thinking and I'm pretty sure I read somewhere that not only does it shatter if you try to cut or drill it but that it is also more prone to scratching than ordinary glass. I got a nasty scratch on a cupboard door that would seem to confirm this view.

Might be worth looking into if it is being used for a table top and seeing if some sort of protective coating is available.

And that reminds me. When I got a batch of the stuff for these cupboard doors it all came with a BS Kite Mark in the corner. Make sure you tell the makers to leave it off if it will spoil the work.

Regards

Roy
 

Mcluma

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They have to drill the holes before they harden the glass, which is already decribed above which is a preheat and very quick cool-off, I have had / and still have a few hardened glass tables before, and have not noticed any scratches, The dining room table which has 10mm thoughend glass and part frosted, endures very heavy use ( i often use it as my workbench wen I am working in the house) and cannot notice any scratches.

 
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