Myford ML8, bearings need to be changed..

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Snickarpelle

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Kalmar, Sweden
Hi everyone!
I am new to this forum and happy to be here. Living in Sweden and I am a sailor and wood worker when not working on my daily work.
I have a Myford ML8 wood lathe, that I really like, but the bearings need to be changed. It could be easy but, for me, it is not. Could you please advise me how to change the bearings. I have taken some pieces away so that I can clearly see the bearings and I do believe how I should proceed but I would really appreciate guidance as I do not want to destroy the spindle or its threads.
Also.. How do you get the tail stock assembly of the bed of the lathe? Want to clean under the saddle.

Thanks.

Pär
 
The headstock is pretty well put together. On the outboard side is a collar held in place with hex head grub screw. You need to undo the screws, then unscrew the collar. Similarly the belt pulley assembly is held in by grub screws. There may be double sets of screws, so after you remove one, check to see whether there is another underneath.
Once all the screws have been removed, you will be able to remove the end-plates from the head stock and slide the spindle shaft out from the inboard side.
Keep hold of the beld pulley or it will drop inside the housing.

Hope this helps
 
I have done loads of these. The main problem is on a lot of them is the belt pulley can spin on the shaft and make a ridge and the pulley will get stuck to the shaft. The headstock will have to be placed in a press to get the shaft out.
 
Thank you Tazmaniandevil and wizard!
I did get the collar off, luckily I tried both ways and it went off. I was a bit surprised to see that the outer outboard thread for the accessories was left handed and the inner one for the collar was threaded the other way.. The shaft then moved approx 10 mm before not going anywhere so I will go for the press with the headstock according to your advice, wizard.

Does anyone know how to take the tailstock off?
Best regards,
Pär
 
To take the tailstock off, I think (if I remember rightly from my ML8), you slide it to the end of the bed and unscrew the round quick nut by working from the open end of the bed. The tailstock just lifts up, complete with bolt, leaving the quick nut and saddle support in the bed. They can be slid out as well. I seem to remember it being a bit fiddly to get it back together again - fiddly but not difficult.

To clean the bed I use a semicircular piece of wood shaped to fit inside the bed (but smaller, so it can slide easily over the debris) and fixed to a rod about 30 ins long. Then I pull or push the chips out from both ends. I don't bother doing a tidy job because the bed will soon fill up again so it's pointless.

K
 
I am stripping down my ML8 headstock to gain access to the bearings, previous owner used grease, and I want to flush the bearings out.
I cannot for the love of me, withdraw the main spindle through the bearings.

The stepped pulley just wont budge lengthways or rotate radially.
Both grubscrews have been removed and I can see the spindle through the screw holes.
I've filled both screw holes with Plusgas and will have another go tomorrow.
If anybody out there has had this problem could they talk to me about it please.

I have tried using a brass drift and a hammer but it seems to stop with the metallic clunk that you get when you come up against somthing solid!!!

Len.
 
Hi

Have you tried heating the pulley assembly with a heat gun to expand it?

See also Wizard's response above. Not sure if drawing the spindle out using a threaded bar and tube would be an in situ option.

Regards Mick
 
Once the collar is off and both grub screws and bearing covers removed, the spindle should slide out of the headstock, but is often very tight or jammed by a burr on the spindle. Be careful pushing it out - unlike the metal lathes Myford didn't harden the spindle and it is easy to damage the thread on the LH end.

Once the spindle is out the two bearings can be very tight in their housings. If you look on the inner sides of the headstock you will see three 3 mm or so diameter holes which line up with the outer ring of each bearing. If you can make up a plate with three pins which engage with the holes, you can easily push the bearings out. I used a piece of sheet brass about 6 mm thick and drilled and tapped for steel set screws. Because the two bearings have different diameters, you need two sets of holes.

If you want to remove the spindle without damage to the bearings, then make a wooden or metal disc which will go under the RH bearing cap to stop the inner ring from being pushed out with the spindle - in my experience once the bearing has been pushed apart it is forever noisy

When reassembling make sure there is a little copper disc under the locking screw on the collar and tighten The collar just enough to take out any end float.

There should be a fibre washer on each end of the spindle to stop faceplates or chucks becoming jammed

Hope this helps
 

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