My first go at a new shed

[kenmac]

This is my first project, a new shed.
I got the base finished today, but has been a real pain as I used reclaimed timber, so it was trim a bit here & add a bit there.

 

[maltrout512]

Every man has to have a shed.Good on you. I take it that you have sat it on slabs and that there is no damp cover as such between the ground and the floor. I'm not picking but there may be a problem with both at some point. I am not an expert in building regs etc just a point of my view.


As always


Many Thanks

 

[Fromey]

Nothing better than a shed-thread!

 

[kenmac]

Every man has to have a shed.Good on you. I take it that you have sat it on slabs and that there is no damp cover as such between the ground and the floor. I'm not picking but there may be a problem with both at some point. I am not an expert in building regs etc just a point of my view.

It's base sits on 7ft long concrete fence posts plus packing to level it off as our garden is up & down all over, so the clearance underneath at it's lowest is 4 inch's & it's highest is 8 inch's so no wood sits on the grass & I thought with the amount of space underneath will stop a lot of damp plus the sides will go all the the way down the bottom section of the base so it wont be exposed the elements.

Do you lot think I need to put a damp proof membrane in somewhere then?

 

[chippy1970]

All you need is a roll of dpc between the concrete posts and the timber

 

[Lons]

What Chippy - says or eventually you'll get damp problems.

You might be able to lever / jack it up to slide the DPC between the timber and concrete.

personally, I'd have put a in full sheet of damp proof membrane to protect the whole floor.

Bob

 

[maltrout512]

Every man has to have a shed.Good on you. I take it that you have sat it on slabs and that there is no damp cover as such between the ground and the floor. I'm not picking but there may be a problem with both at some point. I am not an expert in building regs etc just a point of my view.

It's base sits on 7ft long concrete fence posts plus packing to level it off as our garden is up & down all over, so the clearance underneath at it's lowest is 4 inch's & it's highest is 8 inch's so no wood sits on the grass & I thought with the amount of space underneath will stop a lot of damp plus the sides will go all the the way down the bottom section of the base so it wont be exposed the elements.

Do you lot think I need to put a damp proof membrane in somewhere then?

Basically yes. As been said,between wood and concrete. You say that the sides will go right down to the ground, which will cut out any air flow that you need. So where is any air/damp or not going. (up through the wooden floor) I'm not saying that you have to go overboard but if it's put in first it's not going to be one big job later.


All the best

 

[angelboy]

How long is it going to last? It'll be years before the damp gets through I would think.

Maybe this might help
http://www.wickes.co.uk/liquid-damp-pro ... vt/241217/

 

[powertools]

Don't be put off by all of this.
I have a garden shed that is built on slabs from a concrete coal bunker and has been in place for 25 years with no problem.
Don't forget they make boats from concrete it does not absorb water like bricks.
Concrete posts are used for fencing and the lower board to prolong the life of the wood panels.
The only thing I would say is that you need a gap between the sides and the ground for air flow.
I for one would like you to continue posting pics of your progress.

 

[condeesteso]

me too - love a good shed thread! my two pence worth is this - if still practical get the dpm under (between timber and concrete), plus, leave a gap between bottom of walls and ground - as said above, for 'breathing'. Assuming there will be no guttering to roof (wouldn't bother myself) it's very good indeed to dig a small trench all around (about 9 x 9") and fill with pea shingle - called a French drain I believe, and really good at dispersing water away / down.
Basically, I have said before I have never come across a workshop that was too dry... ever, ever. Do what you can at this stage to make it great to work in later. The other one will be insulation, as we get say 5 months where it can be a tads nippy!

 

[kenmac]

Cheers everyone for the advice, i'll get some DPC down & I know I said the outside walls will go all the way down but I only meant down to half an inch past the base just so the water drips off without running under & sitting on the base, so that will still give me 3.5 to 7.5 inches at the bottom around all four walls for ventilation.

Cheers
Ken

 

[Lons]

Cheers everyone for the advice, i'll get some DPC down & I know I said the outside walls will go all the way down but I only meant down to half an inch past the base just so the water drips off without running under & sitting on the base, so that will still give me 3.5 to 7.5 inches at the bottom around all four walls for ventilation.

Cheers
Ken

Keep the pics coming Ken.


Some of the comments might have sounded negative (including mine) but you'll find the guys on here just want to help and whilst just individual opinions, they are built on experience.

Very easy to put in preventive measures at the start, even if over the top sometimes as too late, difficult or expensive to find out later. Anything that helps protect against dreaded damp and rust has to be worth doing.

cheers

Bob

 

[kenmac]

Cheers everyone for the advice, i'll get some DPC down & I know I said the outside walls will go all the way down but I only meant down to half an inch past the base just so the water drips off without running under & sitting on the base, so that will still give me 3.5 to 7.5 inches at the bottom around all four walls for ventilation.

Cheers
Ken

Keep the pics coming Ken.


Some of the comments might have sounded negative (including mine) but you'll find the guys on here just want to help and whilst just individual opinions, they are built on experience.

Very easy to put in preventive measures at the start, even if over the top sometimes as too late, difficult or expensive to find out later. Anything that helps protect against dreaded damp and rust has to be worth doing.

cheers

Bob

No problems Bob, if you lot don't tell me where I've gone wrong or missed something I'll never learn for the future & I need all the help I can get :lol:

 

[Benchwayze]

My shed is in dire need of replacement. So, I will be training up Number One Son to do the grunt work, next Spring!
I know I could get another one for about £200.00 but would it last any longer? I doubt it.

I shall be watching this thread with interest; and collecting my pressure treated 3 x 2s and 4 x 2s etc... !

Cheers and Bester Luck

John

PS.

Ken,

I should have left enough space between the boundary fences and the shed walls to get a 'creosote' spray nozzle in there. That's one reason my shed is starting to crumble. It's against a wall.

John

.

 

[Blister]

Well !

is it finished yet :mrgreen: :mrgreen: :mrgreen:

 

[kenmac]

Well some progress on the shed, base now done & started on the walls.

 

[jack55]

The uprights seem to have a wide spacing between them, you may want to add a few more in??

 

[kenmac]

Ok I'll get on to that at the weekend , I thought I'd only need them spaced at 4ft for the ply, so I guess 2ft with noggins

 

[Benchwayze]

Ok I'll get on to that at the weekend , I thought I'd only need them spaced at 4ft for the ply, so I guess 2ft with noggins

2 foot intervals should be okay.

Make a 'jig' out of 2 x 2.
Inside dimensions same as outside dimensions of each section of your shed. Build the frames inside the jig,
That way you know each section will be the same size. Horizontals between each upright are a help with stability too. You don't really have to 'half-lap' those in, as you can stagger them, and screw through into end grain to hold them in place. Cladding etc will do the rest.

Building inside the 'jig' will make the whole job easier, and it's definitely less struggle to clad with the frames flat across trestles. Once you have your sections they will go together more quickly too.

HTH

John

 

[kenmac]

Well just a quick update.
The frame is 99% done for the walls, getting the timber for the roof & to finish the stud work both sides of the door frame today, & I've started the cladding.