More on Snagging, catching, jumping and banging...

[graduate_owner]

I can fully sympathise here, as I get exactly the same things happening when bowl turning. I've been turning (off and on, as time permits) for quite a few years, but not much in the way of bowl turning. Having recently bought a graduate lathe for bowl turning, I've been giving it a go - with plenty of the above-mentioned issues. I recently screwed a log to the faceplate and started turning. The outside was fairly uneventful, but when it came to excavating the interior, well that was a different story. I have managed to get about an inch into the wood so far (not sure of the species, some sort of hardwood originally intended for the fire) but now I'm just getting snagging and digging in all the time.

I've sharpened my gouge (superflute) and the bevel is flat, without any facets. I'm not sure whether the angle is correct but it has worked fine on the outside.

Does anyone have any suggestions, or should I just rely on a scraper?

 

[Tazmaniandevil]

Being a beginner, I had plenty issues turning bowls. What I do is set the rest slightly below centre, using the very tip of the gouge to line up the rest. I use the gouge to "drill" a hole in the centre and use a pulling motion to slide the gouge to the edge of the bowl. The flute of the gouge is facing where I want it to go.
I don't have a curved bowl rest, so as I move deeper into the inside of the bowl, I turn the rest so it is inside the bowl, just sitting right of centre, at a height that seats the tip of the gouge dead centre.
As the rest is inside, you can ride the bevel to the outside edge in a curving motion.
Whether this is correct, I have no idea. It works for me though

 

[CHJ]

Are you making sure that the gouge is following the direction of the curve you are producing, try presenting it in the direction of intended travel so that maximum bevel contact is maintained.

Try and maintain a flowing scooping action with the tool handle held against your hip and controlling the swing by twisting your waist and swinging your hips not just your arms and wrists using them just to clamp and support the tool and possibly a slight rotation as you proceed.

 

[nev]

Have a look at this video by Bob Hamilton. He explains what he's doing as he goes and he also gets some catches and you can see what he does to avoid them.
I am no expert but i can hollow a bowl (with a superflute), and I'm not that far from you, if you fancy popping round one day I can try and give you some pointers if you like. You Bring your bowl gouge and some custard creams, Ill supply the lathe and the tea.

 

[bodge]

I had similar issues too, actually I still do to some extent, but I have vastly improved the problem using a technique similar to Tazmaniandevil. The single biggest improvement was gained by ensuring that the bevel of the gouge is always fully in contact with the workpiece. Being more gentle also pays dividends.

 

[graduate_owner]

Hi Nev,
and thanks for the Bob Hamilton link info, and the offer of help at your place. I may well take you up on that but first I want to try out some other possibilities

I have looked at the video and it really is helpful - interesting to see the experts getting dig-ins as well. One thing I have noticed is that my tool rest seems quite high compared with those on video. To get the gouge to cut at the centre of the wood blank, my handle needs to be almost horizontal, and I'm wondering if this is the cause of some of the issues.

I bought the graduate second hand, and it was fitted with a disk sander table and 14" faceplate, but nothing else. In place of the sanding table I've fitted the rest from my Myford and I thought it would be fine, but as I say, it looks too high. I'm thinking of making my own rest just to try it and see.
Do you think a rest that's too high would cause the sort of problems I've been describing?

I'm also wondering whether I've been working 'back to front' in that I've been hollowing out from edge to centre. Does this matter, or is it purely a matter of choice?

As always, any advice or suggestions would be gratefully accepted.

K

 

[nev]

... Do you think a rest that's too high would cause the sort of problems I've been describing?

K

Yes! to present the tool at the correct angle and therefore ride the bevel the rest must be set to a particular height depending on tool etc.

... I'm also wondering whether I've been working 'back to front' in that I've been hollowing out from edge to centre. Does this matter, or is it purely a matter of choice?
K

you can go either way depending on wood grain and tool in use, but its all about that 'riding the bevel' and supporting the tool.

cheers