Mini Review - KT Tools carvers mallet

[Shultzy]

Jim, I have a couple of bowls I'd like to turn into mallets. Have you any dimensioned drawings I could use? Also what woods are suitable for the handles, I have some oak, beech and iroko, are these any good?

 

[jimi43]

Jim, I have a couple of bowls I'd like to turn into mallets. Have you any dimensioned drawings I could use? Also what woods are suitable for the handles, I have some oak, beech and iroko, are these any good?

Hi Shultzy

I didn't actually design the shape on paper to set dimensions...I just eyed the shape I liked (conical) with an angle that would make the face of the mallet strike the tool you were hitting perpendicular to the handle of that tool (roughly)....so maximum force would be transmitted. I have no idea if there is any validity in this idea...just seemed logical.

The head and handle were measured at the golden ratio...the handle being 1.618 (or close to) of the head. It seemed to work visually...and I am fascinated by all things Fibonacci....

Handle wood used in mine were wych elm for the smaller ones and spalted holly for the one Douglas has...only because he gave me the holly in the first place and I thought it kind of fun to return it to him...or as he puts it "re-turned" it to him! :mrgreen:

I like exotics so I guess I wouldn't use oak or beech and I hate iroko dust so that was out. Oak is a bit open grained for turning in my view but bog oak was worth it...although it was a pipper to work!

Beech is excellent and traditional but a bit bland IMHO. Why not get some light coloured exotic...box can be lovely but expensive...cocobolo would be superb and perhaps match the orange tinge found in some LV bowls....

Turn both halves separately then join them to finish again on the lathe to make the joint seemless and even out any error in the boring and joint. You have to hand finish the ends then...but that's easy enough to do.

You can get a wonderful finish with very sharp tools but if you are like me and not that expert at turning, you can get a silky smooth finish by progressive grits of Abranet (120 to 400) and then progressive meshes of 3M Micromesh from 1500M to 12000M. I then use Ultrashine (from Australia) and then Tru-Oil on the handle (at least three coats) and then, when hardened, hand polish with the micromesh again.

If you want actual dimensions of the cone and handle I am sure Mick or Douglas will oblige.

Hope this helps.

Cheers

Jim

 

[condeesteso]

Hi Schultzy - Mick may be able to help, but even if I could measure the finer points of taper, mass, proportion etc... I would rather not. I consider that insight to be the intellectual property of KT Tools. Fact is it is a complex balance of dimensions, material masses, handle shape etc. Best I could advise is make one and see how it goes.