Meddings Drill Tru

[JandK]

I am busy refurbishing this drill and have dismantled it almost completely but am having problems with 2 parts:
1) 3/16 th mills pin that fixes the star wheel casting to its shaft it will not budge - any advice?
2) It seems to me that the chuck is a direct fit to the spindle but I am not able to see a fastener on the inside of the chuck, if this is the case how can I remove the chuck without damaging the spindle?

Thanks
Jan

 

[marcros]

you need wedges to remove the chuck. and a fair bit of heft- I got the wedges but was being too gentle to start with. I think that the wedges are jt2 IIRC.

Edit I believe it was actually JT2 not 6.

 

[deema]

You may have tried this, but anyway!

1. Plenty of penetrating fluid or diesel and left over night before brute force is applied. Try knocking from both sides it may be a tapered pin. If this fails, warm it up, but not too much and then let it cool completely and repeat with the penetrating fluid. Make sure your using a parallel pin to try knocking it out and that it's the right size.....that's from experience of thinking the chamfered outer edge was the size and spending an hours wondering why a pin wouldn't come out!!

2. Often they are on what is called a Jacobs taper, where the chuck is the female and there is a spigot on the quill. Look on the side of the chuck and it should tell you what size it is. You then need a pair of wedges that you can purchase for a couple of pounds of the net that enable you to get it off. My advise again from experience is DO NOT try getting the chuck off without the right folding wedges without them you will damage the male taper in the quill and that's most unfortunate!!

Good luck.

 

[sion.dovey]

The pin is of the tapered variety, my experience with those is get it right first time, carefully decide which way it has to go, select a nice fitting drift and a heavy hammer, once.
The chuck is held on a tapered stub, (a jacobs taper?), no other fastening other than the self locking effect of the taper fit.

 

[JandK]

Thanks for all the replies.

I did remove the chuck with wedges but I needed to make a couple of spacers because the gap between the chuck and the quill housing was to great for the thickness of the wedges.

I will replace all the bearings, the chuck need replacing too the jaws are quite warn. Any suggestions for a suitable chuck replacement, the original chuck was a CVA 1/2. After trawling the net last night it seems as if the quill has a MT2 taper.

 

[marcros]

i would triple check the taper on the thread- I thought that it was a jacobs rather than a morse taper. Thinking about it, I have a feeling that I also needed to use a spacer. It sounds familiar anyway!

With the bearings, I used either Simply Bearings or Bearing Boys. The British made bearings from a factors were extremely expensive- for the use that I will give it, it will still be years before I need to replace them on the Chinese ones if they last half as long..

 

[JandK]

i would triple check the taper on the thread- I thought that it was a jacobs rather than a morse taper.

This is where its getting confusing and then I am in no way an engineer #-o . There a lots of these drills about with Jacob chucks which would suggest that it is indeed a JT. But then some literature suggests that they had MT2 tapers

But thanks for the advice about the bearings Marcos. I had a look on there sites last night.

 

[deema]

Meddungs produced drills with both Morce taper attachment and Jacobs attachment methods. Funnily enough usually a Morce taper has on the end of it a Jacobs taper to attach the chuck. One of the reasons why some would suggest that a Morce taper is not an advantage when using a chuck is that there are two connections to the quill increasing the amount of error.

If the quill has a male tapered end to it / the chuck has a female tapered recess you will have a Jacobs taper connection. For absolute piece of mind (you may have removed the chuck from the Morce taper and you wouldn't be the first) wind down the quill and if you have a hole in it you have a Morce taper and need a morse taper drift to remove the spigot. They cost a couple of pounds and definitely should be used as opposed to say a screw driver that will inevitable cause damage to the quill / housing.

On the chuck it have either JC1 JC2 or JC3, it's highly likely it's a JC2

 

[JandK]

If the quill has a male tapered end to it / the chuck has a female tapered recess you will have a Jacobs taper connection.

Thanks for that info The quill has definitely the male taper and the chuck the female taper. This is what is stamped on the old chuck: CVA, Made in England, 3T oap or could be dap, 0 - 1/2.