Makita 18v Circular Saws - Good for Fine work?

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MrDavidRoberts

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I have a task to create a bunch of custom kitchen cabinets, and need a way to cut up plywood accurately while also leaving a nice edge finish.
I do not have a tablesaw and do not plan to get one due to having nowhere to store it.

I'm currently looking at this 136mm compact Makita 18v circular saw, I like the form factor of it very much + all my other tools are 18v makita as well so I need to stick to the system I already have.
http://www.powertoolworld.co.uk/makita- ... -only#gref

-Would these circular saws be good for such task? I suspect I would need a better saw blade with finer tooth to achieve a better finish, but is it doable?
-Maybe anyone has this exact saw and can comment how good/bad it is?
-Will I be able to achieve a good finished edge while cutting plywood with such saw?
-Also are there any tracks you can buy for these saws so it can be used as a track saw? Or you can only use them with DIY made ''tracks''?
unfortunately my budget doesn't stretches to a good dedicated tracksaw + I think a circular saw is a more universal tool suitable for more tasks in future?

What do u think guys?
 
Build in the cost of a Makita Plunge Track saw into the price for the Custom Kitchen Cabinets, you can get a 36volt version that take two 18volt batteries, perfect for cutting sheet plywood accurately with minimal finishing. Plunge saws can be used off the track's as well.

Mike
 
I’ve got the one that’s a size up from your link - this one:
http://www.powertoolworld.co.uk/makita- ... -body-only
I was using it today actually. I haven’t tried it with a guide rail before (it would have to be a diy one) but it works fine against a straight edge. The finish is as good as the blade you have in it. I use the standard Makita blade and it’s fine for my needs but I always touch up edges with a plane afterwards.
 
A homemade track is perfectly capable of accurate work. First ensure the saw's base is parallel to the blade before making the track - if it's not then a MDF subbase may be needed.

I started off with a cheap Skil circular saw from B&Q and a track made from melamine wardrobe side panel and a length of steel shelving rail as a guide. The cuts were straight, square and clean, which proves even cobbled together junk can produce something halfway decent.
 
MikeJhn":2f19m2is said:
Or buy one of these instead: http://www.rutlands.co.uk/sp+woodworkin ... nds+xt3516 saw and track for just under £100.00.

Mike
think it's Any good or just cheap?
There isn't a thing I dislike more than a cheap poorly engineered tool,just a waste of time in my book.

I had a look at offerings from festool/bosch/makita/mafell and you have to spend at least 400 to get a dedicated tracksaw with rails, seems like awesome tools,however I do not think I will use it enough in future to justify the expense.
 
I have the Lidl version of that Rutlands saw which I've fitted with a diamond blade for cutting stone and tiles. It's never been used on wood, but as a wet and dry stone saw it's holding up well despite not being designed for the job. I can say the depth adjustment on mine is terrible, so if you intended to machine a lot of housings at varying depths then it may not be the best choice.
 
Cheers, I ordered this 136mm beast ,had some credit at the place where I wanted to buy it so It ended up costing me only £64,not bad.
makita-dss501z-18v-circular-saw-body-only-pid8098_1.jpg


I will make a guide rail like this myself
62514.jpg



Can anyone suggest what blade I would need to get a smooth cut in ply with this saw?
The saw comes with 16tooth standard makita blade, I really like Freud blades for my other tools but seems like they don't make it in this 136mm size, what's the next best thing?
I found this 36tooth makita blade myself https://www.ffx.co.uk/tools/product/Mak ... -Saw-Blade
 
MrDavidRoberts":2rwb62vj said:
MikeJhn":2rwb62vj said:
Or buy one of these instead: http://www.rutlands.co.uk/sp+woodworkin ... nds+xt3516 saw and track for just under £100.00.

Mike
think it's Any good or just cheap?
There isn't a thing I dislike more than a cheap poorly engineered tool,just a waste of time in my book.

I had a look at offerings from festool/bosch/makita/mafell and you have to spend at least 400 to get a dedicated tracksaw with rails, seems like awesome tools,however I do not think I will use it enough in future to justify the expense.

Its cheap, but does the job, if you just want to cut sheet goods into usable size's, the finish is only as good as the blade you use, the more teeth the better the finish, most people will shy away from putting an expensive blade in a cheap machine, but a good blade can transform a cheap machine into something good.

As per your pervious posts you knew the answer you wanted before you asked the question. :shock:

Mike
 
Hi, not long joined, I bought a mafell track saw a couple of years ago superb tool, use it far more than I thought I would, my makita cordless circular saw is now relegated to floor board use. the handy thing on the mafell is a preset score facility about 3mm depth. if you make a guide for your makita set the blade to a mill or two depth and do a score cut (especially cross grain) before the full one it may eliminate a lot off spelching, more work but but maybe worth a try.
 
Mike[/quote]
As per your pervious posts you knew the answer you wanted before you asked the question. :shock:

Mike[/quote]

D'accord. Complete waste of time and effort and rather insulting to all the well intentioned posters who think that the OP is asking a genuine question and offer honest advice.

The badge of the Walmington-on Sea Yacht Club is a capital W over an Anchor which ideally suits............
 
With any luck he will throw his toys out of the pram again and disappear, just like he did last time.

Mike
 
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