Lidl (Parkside) Pillar Drill.
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curtisrider
Established Member
It does the job but it's as good as the price suggests! Budget a bit more and/or go secondhand as you will regret buying it. I bought mine as I wanted to use it's guts to make something else but haven't got round to it!
John15
Established Member
I bought one a couple of years ago and wished I hadn't - too much play in the quill. Should have taken it back.
John
John
Yep, I got one the last time around much to the derision of a friend who suggested a cheaper boat anchor! (He is buying one tomorrow having borrowed mine.)
But for £60 it has been brilliant and whilst there is about a 0.5mm drift at the full extension of the quill, it is more than acceptable for my use. Like all the generic Chinese tools, quality control varies from drill to drill but as you know, excellent returns policy at Lidl plus the 3 year warranty.
If you are going to get one, get there early. My local Lidl had 20 in stock at 1000hrs and I got the second to last on the pallet about 15 minutes after.
But for £60 it has been brilliant and whilst there is about a 0.5mm drift at the full extension of the quill, it is more than acceptable for my use. Like all the generic Chinese tools, quality control varies from drill to drill but as you know, excellent returns policy at Lidl plus the 3 year warranty.
If you are going to get one, get there early. My local Lidl had 20 in stock at 1000hrs and I got the second to last on the pallet about 15 minutes after.
Thanks all for the advice.
I think I'll buy one and give it a good look over once I get home. I can always return it if I decide not to keep it.
I've been using a cheap and cheerful Nutool one up until now which has done the job.
I would have been happy to save up and get a better quality one if I had too but even if I had the finances available, it appears that as the quality increases,so does the weight. I don't have a dedicated workshop so I have to bring my tools out and put them away after use. I'm happy to lug around 30Kg machines if I have too, but it appears the better quality pillar drills go from 60 kg's upwards, which is going to be too much to handle.
As much as I would like a quality drill, I guess I'll have to compromise on quality to keep the weight down
I think I'll buy one and give it a good look over once I get home. I can always return it if I decide not to keep it.
I've been using a cheap and cheerful Nutool one up until now which has done the job.
I would have been happy to save up and get a better quality one if I had too but even if I had the finances available, it appears that as the quality increases,so does the weight. I don't have a dedicated workshop so I have to bring my tools out and put them away after use. I'm happy to lug around 30Kg machines if I have too, but it appears the better quality pillar drills go from 60 kg's upwards, which is going to be too much to handle.
As much as I would like a quality drill, I guess I'll have to compromise on quality to keep the weight down
If like most of us and you're not doing work for Airbus or WilliamsF1 it'll be fine.
Put a bit of effort into getting the table square, make sure the belt's tight and the chuck is on right, and drill holes to your hearts content.
Put a bit of effort into getting the table square, make sure the belt's tight and the chuck is on right, and drill holes to your hearts content.
curtisrider
Established Member
In that case I can see why you are considering it. Do you really need one? Would a drill and drill guide suffice and be less of a storage/transporting problem?
I do like to have a pillar drill and the Nutool one I have at the moment gets used quite frequently. It's got the depth gauge missing and one of the handles has been misplaced and the on/off switch is a bit temperamental, hence the thoughts about replacing it. The motor on mine is only about 250W if I remember correctly, so the 500W motor on the Parkside was quite appealing.
t8hants
Established Member
I have got mine to drill up to 5/8" into 1/4" steel plate by going up in stages, but the problem I have with my machine is the table slipping down the column, so for drilling steel I put a block under it.
It's a machine that reflects its price.
It's a machine that reflects its price.
MrDavidRoberts
Established Member
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usually when someone on this forum says - the price reflects the quality, or the tool is worth the money- the tool is utter garbage!
Remember, Item isn't good value for money if there are no value to begin with.
I have seen some really nice used record power used top-notch pillar drills for £20-£50 in ebay auctions nearby..
Surely that's a much better choice if you want to stick to the said budget?
Buy Cheap(crap) buy twice..
Remember, Item isn't good value for money if there are no value to begin with.
I have seen some really nice used record power used top-notch pillar drills for £20-£50 in ebay auctions nearby..
Surely that's a much better choice if you want to stick to the said budget?
Buy Cheap(crap) buy twice..
jlawford
Established Member
JJ1":1bzpz7st said:
I picked one up from my local Lidl this morning. Assembled but not turned it on yet. Everything goes together easily - it's a heavy little thing! I'll let you know how it goes.
I bought one last year but wasn't expecting much. It's been more useful than I anticipated and will do the job until I migrate to a larger floor standing unit. I recommend buying some bicycle seat clamp quick release skewers to quickly adjust the vice clamp thing though.
Late to this, with apologies. But they are still for sale, and I found this board when I was deciding whether to buy, so I though my experiences might be helpful. I bought it 2 weeks ago.
I have numerous Parkside tools, and have generally been happy with them. This however is a different subcontractor I think (Grizzly GmbH), and very obviously Asian origin.
The good: good price, a vice included, 500w motor, a good guarantee. It seems like a good Chuck, and 16mm. Safety switch. 3m cable. 9 speed (via pulleys)
Not so good: pressed steel table, not that stiff, cast iron is better. No crank for the table.
Several problems with it out of the box. I'll list them in order that they arose.
First off it wouldn't run at all. Investigation revealed that the emergency switch wire, a live wire I think, was floating free. The other wire was also only loosely screwed into the switch, and indeed the switch itself was loose. Remedied all of those, and although the chassis is earthed, I was still paranoid enough given the findings that I inserted insulation between switch and the chassis (the set screw to secure the quill is exposed in there - a useful finding as it turns out)
The vice screw was terrible. It was rough, and caught. I smoothed it with fine Emery, and greased it. It's fine now.
The drill didn't run true, with quite a lot of wobble at the quill, both front to back, and side to side. I adjusted the set screw, which fixed front/back play, but it still wobbled side to side. Taking out the set screw reveals that it is turned narrower than the quill slot, and the quill in any case is only a loose fit in the housing. So I cut and filed a bolt of the right size into a blunt tapered end. It now grips the bottom of the slot, and the two sides also. As far as I can tell, all play has been removed, though the quill can be a little stiff. I've kept the old screw so it can be returned to factory condition.
But fixing that revealed a huge amount of backlash in the drill lowering spindle, the bit that is turned by pulling on the 3 handles, and that lowers the Chuck. That too is a very loose fit in the housing. Sigh. I shimmed that with a slim bit of mild steel bent into a 'u'. Better, not perfect.
I discovered the angle scale for the drilling platform was way off (it's next to useless anyway) so peeled it off and re-stuck it correctly.
The idler pulley shafts are offset in a crank shape. The pulley side didn't seem greased (despite the maintenance instructions!), but when I took it out to grease it it turns out not to be square - ie the two shafts are not held parallel. I tried straightening the connecting plate back (it is obviously bent) but it needs severe brute force, and I realised that with one belt pulling one way at the top pulley slot, and the other at the bottom pulling in the other direction, there was always going to be a twisting force on each shaft, with uneven wear (already showing), and straightening would not make any odds. I wonder if there should be proper bearings?
It now drills true, and is functional. But having squared the table to the drill, I then discovered that the drill descends at a slight angle to the pillar.
I was pondering how to sort that, (and whether it makes any difference anyway), when i had to use it to drill a hole in wood. As I did, the levers for lowering the drill just started turning freely, not lowering or raising at all. Now I've only had it two weeks, it's not had much use. Hell, most of my interaction with it has been tweaking it!
Anyway, so I pull that apart. Turns out that there's a rolled pin (whatever they're called - like a split tube of metal to act as a pin/nail) holding the cog onto the spindle. That has sheared. So although I think I can do better (tap it for a grub screw perhaps), it's under guarantee, and nothing I have yet done affects its construction, and can all be undone. So I've contacted Grizzly under the warranty. We'll see what they say.
Conclusion? It's a £60 crash course in pillar drill construction and set up. The drill itself has become the hobby. Would I buy another, or recommend it - a resounding no, unless you're only using it for woodworking. But I doubt if any other at this price is much better (though I'd be interested how the Aldi one compares!!). But it has been 'fun', and a challenge. And can be made fit for purpose, if it holds together... But then again, it does have a 3 year warranty...
I have numerous Parkside tools, and have generally been happy with them. This however is a different subcontractor I think (Grizzly GmbH), and very obviously Asian origin.
The good: good price, a vice included, 500w motor, a good guarantee. It seems like a good Chuck, and 16mm. Safety switch. 3m cable. 9 speed (via pulleys)
Not so good: pressed steel table, not that stiff, cast iron is better. No crank for the table.
Several problems with it out of the box. I'll list them in order that they arose.
First off it wouldn't run at all. Investigation revealed that the emergency switch wire, a live wire I think, was floating free. The other wire was also only loosely screwed into the switch, and indeed the switch itself was loose. Remedied all of those, and although the chassis is earthed, I was still paranoid enough given the findings that I inserted insulation between switch and the chassis (the set screw to secure the quill is exposed in there - a useful finding as it turns out)
The vice screw was terrible. It was rough, and caught. I smoothed it with fine Emery, and greased it. It's fine now.
The drill didn't run true, with quite a lot of wobble at the quill, both front to back, and side to side. I adjusted the set screw, which fixed front/back play, but it still wobbled side to side. Taking out the set screw reveals that it is turned narrower than the quill slot, and the quill in any case is only a loose fit in the housing. So I cut and filed a bolt of the right size into a blunt tapered end. It now grips the bottom of the slot, and the two sides also. As far as I can tell, all play has been removed, though the quill can be a little stiff. I've kept the old screw so it can be returned to factory condition.
But fixing that revealed a huge amount of backlash in the drill lowering spindle, the bit that is turned by pulling on the 3 handles, and that lowers the Chuck. That too is a very loose fit in the housing. Sigh. I shimmed that with a slim bit of mild steel bent into a 'u'. Better, not perfect.
I discovered the angle scale for the drilling platform was way off (it's next to useless anyway) so peeled it off and re-stuck it correctly.
The idler pulley shafts are offset in a crank shape. The pulley side didn't seem greased (despite the maintenance instructions!), but when I took it out to grease it it turns out not to be square - ie the two shafts are not held parallel. I tried straightening the connecting plate back (it is obviously bent) but it needs severe brute force, and I realised that with one belt pulling one way at the top pulley slot, and the other at the bottom pulling in the other direction, there was always going to be a twisting force on each shaft, with uneven wear (already showing), and straightening would not make any odds. I wonder if there should be proper bearings?
It now drills true, and is functional. But having squared the table to the drill, I then discovered that the drill descends at a slight angle to the pillar.
I was pondering how to sort that, (and whether it makes any difference anyway), when i had to use it to drill a hole in wood. As I did, the levers for lowering the drill just started turning freely, not lowering or raising at all. Now I've only had it two weeks, it's not had much use. Hell, most of my interaction with it has been tweaking it!
Anyway, so I pull that apart. Turns out that there's a rolled pin (whatever they're called - like a split tube of metal to act as a pin/nail) holding the cog onto the spindle. That has sheared. So although I think I can do better (tap it for a grub screw perhaps), it's under guarantee, and nothing I have yet done affects its construction, and can all be undone. So I've contacted Grizzly under the warranty. We'll see what they say.
Conclusion? It's a £60 crash course in pillar drill construction and set up. The drill itself has become the hobby. Would I buy another, or recommend it - a resounding no, unless you're only using it for woodworking. But I doubt if any other at this price is much better (though I'd be interested how the Aldi one compares!!). But it has been 'fun', and a challenge. And can be made fit for purpose, if it holds together... But then again, it does have a 3 year warranty...
memzey
Established Member
I spent £60 on a used Fobco Star a couple of years ago and that is a marvellous machine. Simply brilliant. About half a thou' runout in the spindle when fully extended (so near enough nothing and muuuch better than needed for wood working) and rock solid/square in all the important ways. Look on the auction and second hand sites near you. They come up for sale all the time. I wouldn't swap mine for a new far eastern machine that costs 10 times as much.
Thank you. I have since been pondering a second hand buy, scouring Gumtree. There was a decent one in northern Ireland, and another on Scotland, but for something that was an indulgence, rather than a need, it would have to be local and a good price, and a wee bit closer to Devon. But I'll keep looking.
Meantime I have found that the flexibility in the table is an issue. Anything needing firm drill pressure bends it down, which then creates an angle between the drill and workpiece. So I've learnt to chock it up. (You could of course say it's not really an issue, since the cog on the drill lowering spindle is designed to shear off with moderate pressure.... See my previous post)
As an update, I contacted grizzly at lidl co uk as per the manual, with a photo of the receipt, the broken parts, and an explanation both of the original wiring problem (which does seem, to me at least, to have been a serious issue, but then who am I).
I got the perfunctory polite and generic apology, and a request for permission to send my address to the supplier, to which I agreed. (You'd think that the email was in fact to Grizzly direct. Apparently not)
I was then contacted by the supplier, who asked for my address, and the receipt details, (duh?) no apology, and will get a part to me within 28 days.
No mention by either party of the electrical fault. Going through the motions I think you call this. No real interest in quality issues. An interesting perspective into modern German attitudes to manufacturing quality perhaps?
I know I should take it back. Don't get at me. But it's too big. I'm too British. And I've fixed it. And I'm too old to believe that making a fuss makes any difference to the admins who run every aspect of every interaction. (And yes, there are expletives there in-between the lines, if you were wondering)
Meantime I have found that the flexibility in the table is an issue. Anything needing firm drill pressure bends it down, which then creates an angle between the drill and workpiece. So I've learnt to chock it up. (You could of course say it's not really an issue, since the cog on the drill lowering spindle is designed to shear off with moderate pressure.... See my previous post)
As an update, I contacted grizzly at lidl co uk as per the manual, with a photo of the receipt, the broken parts, and an explanation both of the original wiring problem (which does seem, to me at least, to have been a serious issue, but then who am I).
I got the perfunctory polite and generic apology, and a request for permission to send my address to the supplier, to which I agreed. (You'd think that the email was in fact to Grizzly direct. Apparently not)
I was then contacted by the supplier, who asked for my address, and the receipt details, (duh?) no apology, and will get a part to me within 28 days.
No mention by either party of the electrical fault. Going through the motions I think you call this. No real interest in quality issues. An interesting perspective into modern German attitudes to manufacturing quality perhaps?
I know I should take it back. Don't get at me. But it's too big. I'm too British. And I've fixed it. And I'm too old to believe that making a fuss makes any difference to the admins who run every aspect of every interaction. (And yes, there are expletives there in-between the lines, if you were wondering)
OK. Guess I've taken over this thread, with apologies, but despite it being all but dead, I thought I'd update with my progress.
I fixed the pinion gear with a peaned nail cutoff, pending the replacement part. Works fine, and is probably stronger than the original.
But the problems just keep showing up.1) I discovered that the quill had no stop on it. It simply relies on the rack and pinion coming to an end, which of course means that the pinion rides up onto the non geared bit of the quill, adding to the strains...
2) The drilling depth stop is a rotary one, that clamps down with a screw. Except that it doesn't bite particularly well, despite tightening ++, and so as you're driving the quill down, thinking the material is resisting, as they do, it is in fact the depth stop slipping, and your work is ruined...
3) The quill has gotten annoying. The rack and pinion slips and jumps, despite me having removed the play in the quill. Or perhaps because of? The set screw is at the front, forcing the rack back onto the pinion gear, perhaps binding it? Can't win, if I back off the screw I get play.
4) I discovered that the drill table wasn't square to the drill, but tilted up at the front, about 5 degrees off at a guess. Turns out that the table wasn't welded square to the post clamp. It's pressed steel, not cast, and flexes in any case as you press the drill bit down. A messy job of cutting the welds and rewelding (I am to welding what the Queen is to heavyweight boxing) and it is now square and true. And a small strut helps with the flexing. (But boy does it look a mess on the underside - I long since resigned myself to the fact that it was only going to be functional if I modified it as necessary and gave up on guarantees after this.
Anyway... The reason I'm resurrecting the thread is to report on the progress with the replacement part. Hmm. 28 days came and went, I sent a reminder email, apologies etc (from Germany, blah blah). Finally arrived today, more than 5 weeks after the complaint. You will remember it broke within the first two weeks..
So, to my delight/surprise, it's a whole new pillar drill. A replacement pinion shaft would have sufficed.
Except that I open it. The box says 'missing Chuck key' on it. That's OK, I have one. But it's a B2 - the previous version, only 5 speeds. That's OK, it looks way better built, and hell, it's whole 'new’ pillar drill, can't complain!
Except, when you take it out (it's all neatly packed and new looking in the original polystyrene packaging) on the underneath layer - odd, the cable from the plug just ends in exposed bare wires, not connected to the machine. OK, I can sort that (not sure what trading standards would say - bloody dangerous) it's still a brand new machine, and at worst all I was expecting was the pinion gear. Pull out the body. Bloody hell, no switch, the wires just cut. No emergency stop switch either, that's also been removed.
Hmm. Not so exciting then. Back to the pinion. But damn it, that's not compatible.
More emails, and photos. Can only apologise, will send out another, etc....
So, 2 week old machine, part fails. Takes 5 weeks to get out some sort of part, which turns out to be a cannibalised non functional machine that is incomplete and not compatible.
And I might get yet another one? Insane. How do they make money? More than that, I had my eye on the latest Parkside cordless hammer drill, and the shop vacuum, both of which I decided against on the strength of the quality issues with this drill.
I doubt anyone is reading this. But if it all gets sorted I'll update again God willing. Exciting huh?
I fixed the pinion gear with a peaned nail cutoff, pending the replacement part. Works fine, and is probably stronger than the original.
But the problems just keep showing up.1) I discovered that the quill had no stop on it. It simply relies on the rack and pinion coming to an end, which of course means that the pinion rides up onto the non geared bit of the quill, adding to the strains...
2) The drilling depth stop is a rotary one, that clamps down with a screw. Except that it doesn't bite particularly well, despite tightening ++, and so as you're driving the quill down, thinking the material is resisting, as they do, it is in fact the depth stop slipping, and your work is ruined...
3) The quill has gotten annoying. The rack and pinion slips and jumps, despite me having removed the play in the quill. Or perhaps because of? The set screw is at the front, forcing the rack back onto the pinion gear, perhaps binding it? Can't win, if I back off the screw I get play.
4) I discovered that the drill table wasn't square to the drill, but tilted up at the front, about 5 degrees off at a guess. Turns out that the table wasn't welded square to the post clamp. It's pressed steel, not cast, and flexes in any case as you press the drill bit down. A messy job of cutting the welds and rewelding (I am to welding what the Queen is to heavyweight boxing) and it is now square and true. And a small strut helps with the flexing. (But boy does it look a mess on the underside - I long since resigned myself to the fact that it was only going to be functional if I modified it as necessary and gave up on guarantees after this.
Anyway... The reason I'm resurrecting the thread is to report on the progress with the replacement part. Hmm. 28 days came and went, I sent a reminder email, apologies etc (from Germany, blah blah). Finally arrived today, more than 5 weeks after the complaint. You will remember it broke within the first two weeks..
So, to my delight/surprise, it's a whole new pillar drill. A replacement pinion shaft would have sufficed.
Except that I open it. The box says 'missing Chuck key' on it. That's OK, I have one. But it's a B2 - the previous version, only 5 speeds. That's OK, it looks way better built, and hell, it's whole 'new’ pillar drill, can't complain!
Except, when you take it out (it's all neatly packed and new looking in the original polystyrene packaging) on the underneath layer - odd, the cable from the plug just ends in exposed bare wires, not connected to the machine. OK, I can sort that (not sure what trading standards would say - bloody dangerous) it's still a brand new machine, and at worst all I was expecting was the pinion gear. Pull out the body. Bloody hell, no switch, the wires just cut. No emergency stop switch either, that's also been removed.
Hmm. Not so exciting then. Back to the pinion. But damn it, that's not compatible.
More emails, and photos. Can only apologise, will send out another, etc....
So, 2 week old machine, part fails. Takes 5 weeks to get out some sort of part, which turns out to be a cannibalised non functional machine that is incomplete and not compatible.
And I might get yet another one? Insane. How do they make money? More than that, I had my eye on the latest Parkside cordless hammer drill, and the shop vacuum, both of which I decided against on the strength of the quality issues with this drill.
I doubt anyone is reading this. But if it all gets sorted I'll update again God willing. Exciting huh?
fezman
Established Member
Hmmm, the wobble and play in the quill was the same I experienced. I took it back and got a refund. I bought a clark for about £90 last week and it worked straight out of the box once assembled.
You must have the patience of a saint to put up with all that faff just to get a working drill - i.e. what you paid for.
You must have the patience of a saint to put up with all that faff just to get a working drill - i.e. what you paid for.
