Latest thing you have printed / machined / cut

[steve355]

This week’s genius device was a 15 degree wedge, for use with the pillar drill and a forstner bit for making the initial hole in a skew rabbet plane.

I realised I needed it when I ruined a nice piece of beech by forgetting that the hole needed to be aligned with the skew of the bed, putting the hole in the right place on one side but completely the wrong place on the other.

It’s amazing how useful 3d printers are for making little “helper” jigs.

 

[spiritburner]

This is the last, it's the air intakes on a floor standing 2.5metre long C02 160 Watt Laser I am building for a client over here in Spain, Its a bit of a beast, Its designed for fast cutting, weighs in at 195 kilos. Its very fast and very powerful, designed to take large full sheets of Acrylic, It will cut 15mm Acrylic in one pass if needed but mainly its use is on 6, 8 and 10 mm Acrylic for boat windows which is cuts incredibly quickly because of the 160 Recki tube and high quality optics.

Linear rails all round, auto focus, automatic bed ,air assist at 26 psi using on board 10 litre compressor, pass through etc. Its not cheap, its not Chinese! Around 8k with a 35 day lead time.

I am designing a Rotary at the moment to go with it which will in fact be a stand alone machine using a 40 watt diode, first of a kind as I have never seen a stand alone Rotary anywhere, the idea is this will free up your main machine for cutting, launching on kickstarter shortly at prices which will be pocket friendly.

As a designer and builder of CNC based machines 3D printers have totally changed my life for the better.

I am currently looking to retire my ageing bank of CR10's and moving over to a couple Bambu Lab X1-Carbon's as I want to print NylonX carbon infused fibre now for most of these parts , they print so fast now I only will need 2 machines. A friend I have in the UK uses them and swears by them.

 

[Britman]

MFT Dog hole stops.
I'm still undecided if I will try and sell them on eBay. Made from Carbon Fibre ASA on a FlashForge A5M pro. The PEI build plate does leave a nice textured pattern.

 

[supertom44]

MFT Dog hole stops.
I'm still undecided if I will try and sell them on eBay. Made from Carbon Fibre ASA on a FlashForge A5M pro. The PEI build plate does leave a nice textured pattern.

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What's the strength like with Carbon Fibre ASA, never worked with it.

When I was printing these in PLA I found I had to print them on their side so the layer lines ran vertically as they kept breaking on my when printed with layer lines horizontally.

I didn't think I'd like textured build plates, but must admit since I've swapped to one I haven't gone back, really like the finish they give.

 

[Gerry]

I would print them at 45 deg so no supports needing to be generated and the layers would run diagonally giving maximum strength in all directions. You would need to enlarge the chamfer on the top a bit and draw in a simple triangle support on the design to support it on the bed to stop it coming loose or knocking over.

Gerry

 

[Britman]

I would print them at 45 deg so no supports needing to be generated and the layers would run diagonally giving maximum strength in all directions. You would need to enlarge the chamfer on the top a bit and draw in a simple triangle support on the design to support it on the bed to stop it coming loose or knocking over.

Gerry

They layers is something I hadn't even considered mainly because I didn't think through how people might use them. The only thought was as a stop when plaining something

I haven't put it under any kind of stress test, what was you doing when they broken? Just curious as to the type of load you had on them.

 

[paulrbarnard]

They layers is something I hadn't even considered mainly because I didn't think through how people might use them. The only thought was as a stop when plaining something



I haven't put it under any kind of stress test, what was you doing when they broken? Just curious as to the type of load you had on them.

3D prints are very much weaker along the layers. When I do a print I always consider where the most force will be applied and aim to get the layers at 90 degrees to the force.

There are lots of 3D print test on YouTube. it’s worth watching a couple get to know how the prints perform.

 

[Britman]

What's the strength like with Carbon Fibre ASA, never worked with it.

When I was printing these in PLA I found I had to print them on their side so the layer lines ran vertically as they kept breaking on my when printed with layer lines horizontally.

I didn't think I'd like textured build plates, but must admit since I've swapped to one I haven't gone back, really like the finish they give.

I haven't put it under any kind of stress test, what was you doing when they broken? Just curious as to the type of load you had on them.

I would print them at 45 deg so no supports needing to be generated and the layers would run diagonally giving maximum strength in all directions. You would need to enlarge the chamfer on the top a bit and draw in a simple triangle support on the design to support it on the bed to stop it coming loose or knocking over.

Gerry

They layers is something I hadn't even considered mainly because I didn't think through how people might use them. The only thought was as a stop when plaining something

I may try 100% fill to see how that holds up to some bashing with a hammer.

 

[supertom44]

I haven't put it under any kind of stress test, what was you doing when they broken? Just curious as to the type of load you had on them.

They layers is something I hadn't even considered mainly because I didn't think through how people might use them. The only thought was as a stop when plaining something

I may try 100% fill to see how that holds up to some bashing with a hammer.

I was using them as planing stops, so the force was being applied across the layer lines causing them to separate. Had a few split when removing from overly tight dog holes too.

 

[Britman]

While the suggestion from @Gerry would probably solve the delamination I don't think my idea was solid enough or well thought out.
Thank you all for the help I will look at developing some other ideas to sell along side my other items.

 

[Chrispy]

Just finishing off a batch of these little boxes, they measure 100mm x 75mm x 40mm, some of each Oak, Walnut, Cherry and Yew finished off with satin lacquer, apart from the sanding and polishing all made on the CNC router.

 

[supertom44]

Decided to spruce up my coffee machine a little with a top trivet.

Spent a while playing around on: https://polygonia.design, before settling on this pattern, which I could have probably found a free vector of, but was fun to play with the software.

Made from some a offcut of 6mm walnut veneer mdf, if I was to make another I think I'd make the lines thicker, and the pattern generally bigger so it didn't take so long to cut and so long to press all the bits out trying not to break it haha.

 

[paulrbarnard]

Decided to spruce up my coffee machine a little with a top trivet.
View attachment 177245

Spent a while playing around on: https://polygonia.design, before settling on this pattern, which I could have probably found a free vector of, but was fun to play with the software.

Made from some a offcut of 6mm walnut veneer mdf, if I was to make another I think I'd make the lines thicker, and the pattern generally bigger so it didn't take so long to cut and so long to press all the bits out trying not to break it haha.

Looks great but I would worry about using MDF for this project. The cups will need to be 100% dry before you put them on it.

 

[supertom44]

Looks great but I would worry about using MDF for this project. The cups will need to be 100% dry before you put them on it.

Yeah MDF wouldn't have been my first choice, but should be fine the cups don't get put on there until after they've dried.

 

[supertom44]

Printed myself a multiboard, really cool system loads of accessories and mounting options, I mounted it on some left over birch ply and then used a french cleat to mount that to the wall.

Got a few more holders to add to it, but got the main things on there.

 

[spiritburner]

When I was printing these in PLA I found I had to print them on their side so the layer lines ran vertically as they kept breaking on my when printed with layer lines horizontally.

if you adjust the thicknesses and numbers on the walls/bottom etc these should end up being a lot stronger in PLA, also use a stronger infill method like triangles.

PLA is incredibly strong, more so than ABS you just need to find the right balance to allow that strength to come through. I used to have similar problems until I started playing with the settings, temperatures, adjusted during the print and now they come out very strong, I also print PLA at 205 and not 200 which most people do and finally I no longer use 0.4 nozzles,0.6 is a new minimum and 0.8 on some stuff if the visuals are not necessary.I also print in enclosures.

I find by doing this I get very good results

 

[Britman]

Ok so this isn't even woodworking related but I found it cool and I managed the 2 colour print pretty well.

Side quest, name the video game

 

[Britman]

Been trying some hand cut joinery lately so decided to print some dovetail guides.

First one is a 1:6 which I highlighted the markings with a posca pen, then I realised I had a multi colour printer so for the 1:8 I used white filament for the icons. Was it worth the extra printing time, probably not but was cool none the less.

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Funny you post this I have been wondering if someone had made a 3D file for such a thing.

 

[Gerry]

Portal
Can i have some cake?

 

[kinverkid]

I make leather journal covers now and again and turn the occasional fountain pen. I bind the journals too. I thought I would print a jig for piercing the A5 journals to stitch the A6 book. Not necessary but it makes the job slightly easier.