Jointing the edge of veneered mdf

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Anonymous

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Hello, I'm looking for some advice please.
I'm building some speaker cabinets using veneered mdf. I will size the panels using either a rotary saw with guide, or a table saw if I find a nice one I can afford. I assume that the edge I get from the saw will not be clean, so I am planning to cut slightly over-size, then joint the edges. For smaller, manageable panels I will probably stand them on edge and run them over my jointer, but for larger panels I am thinking I should joint the edge on my router table.

My question (finally) is - what sort of cutter should I use in my router table to give me a good clean edge. I only need a good edge on one side.
Wealden have this:
http://www.wealdentool.co.uk/acatalog/O ... im_23.html
It looks ideal but with the bearings its clearly intended for template guided use. I would be using the split fence on my router table like a planer/jointer on its side, so no need for bearings. Should I just ignore the bearings and go with that cutter anyway, or can someone recommend a bit designed for what I plan to do?

Many thanks

Max
 
As the board is veneered both sides the shear cut will tear out one side, this may be OK if it is going to be on the inside of the box. A standard straight bit will do

Having said that the multi trim bits are very useful for template & profile work, I use one of these which has no shear and it works out cheaper to replace the blade when it blunts than bying a new cutter.

I use a lot of veneered board and get a perfectly good finish off my table saw but a circ saw will need the cut tidying unless you have a festool. The MDF will soon blunt your planner blades :(

Jason
 
Jason
Good points, exactly what I needed. Especially the point about mdf blunting the planer blades, I would have been very sad, I've already had to fit new blades once because of some metal buried in a block of hardwood. I will get a straight bit. What blade are you using in your table saw to cut veneered mdf with a good finish? Anything special? Thanks again

Byron
I don't have a decent hand-plane, maybe I should invest. I bought a cheap one from B&Q but cannot get good results from it. I know very little about planes, except that there are a bewildering variety of them. What would be a good plane for jointing the edge of a board? Would you use a jig to keep the edge square, or just skill/experience (which I don't have LOL)

Max
 
Hi
I've just finished a set of reception furniture, using the triple cut blade mentioned elsewhere I did not need to joint the edges.
Idid however need to plane some edges and simply used a hand plane.

The choice is yours

Bean
 
Max

Depending on the length of the boards you use would depend on the hand plane. You could use a No.7 (Stanley or Record) that would do a nice a job. They aren't very expensive either if you search around.

You can get a fence that attaches to the side of the plane which keeps it square to the edge, but its not too difficult to do without one, if the board is short-enough you could use a shooting board which allows you to use the plane on its side and 'shoot' it forwards along the edge - very easy once you have a sharp blade.

After jointing with a hand-plane, I actually sold my 6" power jointer as it was surplus to requirements.
 
Max

I tend to use CMTblades either an extrafine cross cut or fine finish crosscut laminate blade. These are ATB (alternate top bevel) with a high top rake, they cut well but the high rake means they need sharpening a bit more often than a general purpose blade so keep them just for veneer/laminate.

Jason
 
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