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Jointing the edge of veneered mdf

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Anonymous

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Hello, I'm looking for some advice please.
I'm building some speaker cabinets using veneered mdf. I will size the panels using either a rotary saw with guide, or a table saw if I find a nice one I can afford. I assume that the edge I get from the saw will not be clean, so I am planning to cut slightly over-size, then joint the edges. For smaller, manageable panels I will probably stand them on edge and run them over my jointer, but for larger panels I am thinking I should joint the edge on my router table.

My question (finally) is - what sort of cutter should I use in my router table to give me a good clean edge. I only need a good edge on one side.
Wealden have this:
http://www.wealdentool.co.uk/acatalog/O ... im_23.html
It looks ideal but with the bearings its clearly intended for template guided use. I would be using the split fence on my router table like a planer/jointer on its side, so no need for bearings. Should I just ignore the bearings and go with that cutter anyway, or can someone recommend a bit designed for what I plan to do?

Many thanks

Max
 

jasonB

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As the board is veneered both sides the shear cut will tear out one side, this may be OK if it is going to be on the inside of the box. A standard straight bit will do

Having said that the multi trim bits are very useful for template & profile work, I use one of these which has no shear and it works out cheaper to replace the blade when it blunts than bying a new cutter.

I use a lot of veneered board and get a perfectly good finish off my table saw but a circ saw will need the cut tidying unless you have a festool. The MDF will soon blunt your planner blades :(

Jason
 
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Anonymous

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Jason
Good points, exactly what I needed. Especially the point about mdf blunting the planer blades, I would have been very sad, I've already had to fit new blades once because of some metal buried in a block of hardwood. I will get a straight bit. What blade are you using in your table saw to cut veneered mdf with a good finish? Anything special? Thanks again

Byron
I don't have a decent hand-plane, maybe I should invest. I bought a cheap one from B&Q but cannot get good results from it. I know very little about planes, except that there are a bewildering variety of them. What would be a good plane for jointing the edge of a board? Would you use a jig to keep the edge square, or just skill/experience (which I don't have LOL)

Max
 

Bean

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Hi
I've just finished a set of reception furniture, using the triple cut blade mentioned elsewhere I did not need to joint the edges.
Idid however need to plane some edges and simply used a hand plane.

The choice is yours

Bean
 

ByronBlack

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Max

Depending on the length of the boards you use would depend on the hand plane. You could use a No.7 (Stanley or Record) that would do a nice a job. They aren't very expensive either if you search around.

You can get a fence that attaches to the side of the plane which keeps it square to the edge, but its not too difficult to do without one, if the board is short-enough you could use a shooting board which allows you to use the plane on its side and 'shoot' it forwards along the edge - very easy once you have a sharp blade.

After jointing with a hand-plane, I actually sold my 6" power jointer as it was surplus to requirements.
 

jasonB

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Max

I tend to use CMTblades either an extrafine cross cut or fine finish crosscut laminate blade. These are ATB (alternate top bevel) with a high top rake, they cut well but the high rake means they need sharpening a bit more often than a general purpose blade so keep them just for veneer/laminate.

Jason
 
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