Jewelry box ideas or tips

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shedifice

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Oxfordshire.
Hi all

My wifes 40th is coming up and I was thinking a jewelry box would be a good gift. I have made beds, guitars and other stuff but nothing as small and neat as a box.

As I have no experience of jewelry boxes i.e. the use of, spaces required inside ( I don't want to make it too big in case she expects me to fill it!) does any one have recommendations for a book or websites with some good ideas and construction tips?

Any help appreciated.

Regards

Leigh
 
Hi,

I have the same dilemma, I have decided to make a bandsaw box YouTube is full of 'em.

Regards

Mark
 
shedifice":2zbiy9q6 said:
Hi all

My wifes 40th is coming up and I was thinking a jewelry box would be a good gift. I have made beds, guitars and other stuff but nothing as small and neat as a box.

As I have no experience of jewelry boxes i.e. the use of, spaces required inside ( I don't want to make it too big in case she expects me to fill it!) does any one have recommendations for a book or websites with some good ideas and construction tips?

Any help appreciated.

Regards

Leigh
I HAVE MADE MANY HEART SHAPED BOXES AS WELL AS ELLIPTICAL These can be seen on my web site http://www.Newtorouting.webs.com
or Routing with Tom O'Donnell on youtube
Tom
 
I have just completed a jewellery box, so can offer some thoughts. However, I am a veteran of 1 box, so please also bare that in mind. These boxes make great gifts because they are very personal, and whilst are no easier to make than other furniture, at least they don't use a huge volume of timber, so you can choose what you want to and the bill isn't a fortune. Personally, I think that they look much better if you can wrap the grain rather than to use offcuts, but I dont doubt that people have made great boxes using offcuts.

* IMO joint type is not important- dovetail, mitre, lock mitre etc etc. The end user is unlikely to know the difference and probably wont notice. Joint accuracy is however vital and they will notice that!

* Proportions are quite important or they look odd. Personally I like 3 units on the front and 2 units on the side. 1 or 2 units looked good for height, I opted for 1 because I didn't want a huge box. My dimensions were approx 300x200x100mm, give or take. There are other firumulas, but 321 is simple and sticks in my mind. Thickness of the sides was 15mm or so. This looked about right, so i stopped wizzing it through the thicknesser.

* Make the box and cut off the lid. I looked at the box and drew a line where it looked right. i think it was about an inch down from the top. Again, give or take.

* I used pigskin as a lining- it cost about a pound a square foot from ebay, but really finished the piece well.

* dont skimp on hinges. used the hawthorne crafts quadrant. The "Neat" hinges look even better. Even if you use a simple butt hinges, get a decent solid brass one. I would choose this hinge before you thickness the box sides, so that it will definitely fit. A nasty hinge will spoil the box.

my build was on pippy-oak-box-t64412.html?hilit=%20pippy%20oak

if i can help you in any way, just ask.
 
andersonec":1pgubo7f said:


Andy that chap on the video in my opinion ought to have been cutting his lengths on a sled with stops, I did not bother to watch the whole sequence of the project

Edit

Second thoughts, using stops might make it difficult to maintain the grain pattern.
 
Hi Leigh

Let us know what sort of tools you have available and we can make some suggestions as to what to make.

Some very simple boxes can be made with pugged butt joints. A lift off lid or hinged lid can be made fairly simply too.

I'm working on a box here at the moment.

Ian at Hawthorn made this one recently.

Marcus made this one.

And one of my favourite recent makes by John here.

Enjoy!
 
Thanks for all the replys, I will read in detail later after a swift half with the Father in Law.

Mick, good Idea! I have the following

dodgy french oval hole driling pillar drill.
Good band saw
6"/10" belt and disc sander.
hand saws
some nice planes
adjustable angle guage, etc etc,
a router that needs replacing but is functional.

I do not have a table saw but can get too one if needed

many thanks L.
 
Do you have any wood already?

Do you have a means of getting a board of wood flat and true? (either the skills using a hand plane or a planer and thicknesser?)

You can cut the wood square(ish) using your saw then make a shooting board to trim up the ends accurately. Or use your disc sander to get it square.

You could use your router to make a groove in the base of the side pieces to accept a floating base (plywood or mdf perhaps)

You could make a simple lid with a couple of butt hinges or make a pivoting hinge with some nails. Like thisone.

Or you could try some dovetail joints?

Sorry if any of this is teaching to suck eggs. Let us know if you have any previous exprerience / skills and we can suggest more appropriately.
 
[/quote] Andy that chap on the video in my opinion ought to have been cutting his lengths on a sled with stops, I did not bother to watch the whole sequence of the project.[/quote]


Leigh, there are many ways to skin a cat, which ever way you choose makes no difference, as long as the end result is satisfactory, whatever tools and techniques you use depends on what is available and what you are happy doing.

If you want a pretty simple box then go here. http://www.finewoodworking.com/PlansAnd ... x?id=29731

Andy
 
andersonec - I like that box, it appeals to my minimal side.

Mike thanks for the info. I have various bits of old oak, some maple and ash from guitar making and some old mahogany shelves. (like recycling) I might also look at a couple of hardwood suppliers round my way for some nice figured timber.

Does any one have a link to how ot make the trays/draws with little seperators in?

L.
 
There isnt much to them really. if you want to go to town, you could dovetail them, but i just rebated them and glued and pinned them. thickness the timber to a suitable router cutter, lay out them out to decide what is going where and cut the joint. a piece around the outside and a couple of dividers.

I lined the base before fixing it in- easier than cutting out small squares. I also oiled the pieces before glue-up. I think that i actually just left them oiled rather than shellac-ing over.

If they are symetrical, make sure that the are or they will look odd. if they are not, then it doesnt matter, but dont make them look almost symetrical.
 
yes, just posted above. i do have some plans which may well help you out, but they are at home so i will have to send them this evening. PM me your email address.
 
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