Japanning

[Harlequin]

Hi All

was "restoring " a stanley bedrock No 7
It has about 80% japanning still present.
So heres the question - should I try japanning ?
How good is paint stripper at cleaning up the existing paint (really don't want to use something aggressive)

Have read the info from various sites on the topic - they make it sound simple.
Anyone here actually tried this ? or can do the job for me ?

BTW was using rust remover today and got the stuff off but there are a few "run" marks on the plane sole - this can be buffed out no ? or is there a simpler way

thanks

 

[tnimble]

Depending on the state of the plane the rust removal and some flattening of the sole would be the thing to bring the plane back with the patina and value remaining.

Otherwise restoring instead of preservinmg is the way to go. I've tried 'spot'/parcial re-Japanning with very varying results. Completely redoing the jappaning gives a consistant and predictable result. Paint stripper / nitromorse works great in removing the old Japanning .

I make my own Japanning grounds (mostly black). I can share the recipe I use use if you wish.

Leave cleaning the plane till after the Japanning. 'Backing' the Japanning will leave the plane lightly discoloured with brown to blueish stains from grease finger marks etcetera. Some w&D SiC sand paper stuck on a flat surface and some wire wool do a good job in cleaning it,

 

[Racers]

Hi,

Any marks on the sole will come out when you lap the sole flat.


Pete

 

[bugbear]

Hi,

Any marks on the sole will come out when you lap the sole flat.


Pete

Or flatten the sole by some other method

BugBear

 

[mahking51]

Hi All,
would love the recipe for the japanning mix please, also sources for the ingredients if theyare weird!
Cheers,
Martin

 

[Lord Nibbo]

I think this might answer a lot of your questions.

http://lordnibbo.wordpress.com/home-made-japaning/

 

[Derek Cohen (Perth Oz)]

A recipe for a cold cure jappaning:

Asphaltum + spar varnish.

It will set hard in 2 weeks. Add a little sunlight (heat) to quicken the process. This is the Real McCoy.

One word of advice - it is self levelling if used on a flat surface. If may leave runs if used on a vertical surface. So do one surface at a time.

Regards from Perth

Derek

 

[woodbloke]

Add a little sunlight (heat) to quicken the process.

Regards from Perth

Derek

Plenty of that where you are Derek...not a lot round here - Rob

 

[tnimble]

Hi All,
would love the recipe for the japanning mix please, also sources for the ingredients if theyare weird!
Cheers,
Martin

Check my thread on Japanning / Enemal kiln and scroll down a bit for my black recipe. Nowadays I also add about a thee spoon of beeswax.

I don't use comercial boiled linseed oil (which is not boiled b.t.w.) but raw linseed oil I boil my self. Depending on the season and time at hand either by boiling the oil for upto a few hours at aprox 300 degrees. Or by putting it into a clear glass jar, with the lid very loosly on top, in the direct sun for a couple of weeks upto months. After boiling the oil is reduces in volume to about 1/3 and turns a deep orange brown. Boiling the oil by means of air and sun light it reduces not very uch in volume but turns redish brown.

 

[Steve Maskery]

Derek, what's asphaltum, please? Are we talking tarmac here?
Thanks
S

 

[Derek Cohen (Perth Oz)]

Steve

It is a component of tarmac. I got the japanning recipe of Stephen Shepherd. He wrote to me, "I use roofing tar, but first let the volitiles evaporate, then mix it up with the McCloskey's Marine Spar Varnish (Gloss).

You can purchase asphaltum from an art supply shop.

Regards from Perth

Derek

 

[Steve Maskery]

Derek, Thank you very much.

Actually I've been reading Lord Nibbo's account (nice job, LN) and followed one of his links, the one to the Witchcraft store.

Apparently the 2lbs needed for the recipe will cost me £109 + p&p. Actually I'll get a whole kilo for that.

No wonder bypasses cost so much to build.

Please tell me you didn't spend a hundred quid on some tarmac?????

S

 

[Harlequin]

thanks all

does the value of the plane diminish if one does re-japann?
Lord Nibbo - thanks for the link, BTW does the lateral adjustment lever come off easily

 

[Derek Cohen (Perth Oz)]

Steve

I paid about $5 for a bag of asphaltum on eBay (USA). It should last about 100 planes. Factor in spar varnish at about $15. Any varnish will do.

You do not need heat for my recipe. It will harden on its own. It looks like(and is) the real thing. Paint looks different.

Regards from Perth

Derek

 

[tnimble]

It is a component of tarmac. I got the japanning recipe of Stephen Shepherd. He wrote to me, "I use roofing tar, but first let the volitiles evaporate, then mix it up with the McCloskey's Marine Spar Varnish (Gloss).

That's not quite true I'm afraid. Tar the main component of tarmac is a coal distillate and chemically not equal to / non related to asphaltum. Asphaltum or man made asphalt is a petroleum distillate.

Apparently the 2lbs needed for the recipe will cost me £109 + p&p. Actually I'll get a whole kilo for that.

No wonder bypasses cost so much to build.

Luckily the material used for a bypass is different in quality. Also instead of pure man made asphalt as the binder used for the concrete top layer(s) modified bitumen are used (various polymers like synthetic rubber)

Please tell me you didn't spend a hundred quid on some tarmac?????

2lb costs me under 25 euros and I guess would last about more than a few thousand Stanley no 8s.

 

[tnimble]

thanks all

does the value of the plane diminish if one does re-japann?
Lord Nibbo - thanks for the link, BTW does the lateral adjustment lever come off easily

Yes is does, jus like lapping the sole or sides reduces value. However this also very much depends on the state of the plane without restoration. Only preserving a plane like in LNs blog has little to no value to begin with.

Also the type of refinishing done determines the amount of decrease or increase. A paint job defensibility lowers the value to about nothing. There are many Japanning recipes around, of which a lot have little to nothing to do with the Japanning technique used around the mid 19th up to the very early 20th century. My recipe is also slightly different as I had to adjust it a little because of the products now available.

As a warning take care when removing any original Japanning as it contains known carcinogens and a neurotoxin

 

[Ironballs]

I have an old Record 5 1/2 that is in need of a resto, any tips for best rust removal gunk and re-painting. For the repainting I'm under no illusions about the value (lack of) of the plane and it's also to be used as a shop workhorse, so if there are any hammerite type suggestions I'll take those

PS - Derek, nice 51/52 sneak gloat by the way

 

[Paul Chapman]

I find Japlac very good and they do a dark blue that is almost identical to the old Record blue.

Cheers :wink:

Paul

 

[Ironballs]

Cheers Paul, looks like you can get it in the sheds (though couldn't see blue), assume you apply some primer first?

 

[Paul Chapman]

I just rub down the old finish (applying something like Kurust to any rust that's difficult to remove completely) and paint on a couple of coats of Japlac. Lasts for years

Cheers :wink:

Paul

PS just checked the tin - the colour you want is called Navy Blue.