Japanese planes - anyone here use them? Experiences?

[markturner]

Hi, as I continue my downward rush along the slope, I have been considering adding a proper Japanese plane to my collection. The client on a recently completed job, gave me the following book as a thank you: http://www.amazon.co.uk/Complete-Japane ... 957&sr=8-1

and I have been reading with interest. I found the following on Dieters wonderful site and particularly loved the packaging and wonderful handmade aura of the plane: http://www.fine-tools.com/G310800.htm

It's not cheap, and before I plunged in, I wondered what experiences any of have of using these tools? I don't question the quality or effectiveness, but I just thought it strange that despite there being a lot of talk and ownership of Japanese chisels here, I don't think I have come across any discussion on the usage of Japanese planes.

cheers, Mark

 

[Harbo]

I have a small smoother that I bought from Dicks a few years ago when in was on special offer.
I really like it - the blade is incredibly sharp and can take whisper thin shavings leaving a very smooth surface. I save it for when I am looking for that something extra on a special piece.
The slight downside to them is that you cannot use them straight out of the box - the blade has to be fitted to the body and sometimes the sole has to be adjusted to suit your requirements. It's not difficult to do and they usually come with full detailed instructions.

Rod

 

[woodbloke]

At the top of this forum is a thread for the Japanese Tool Study Group, a information email from Mike Huntley on Japanese tools, including planes. I've used a few of them:

at Mike's place early in July. They are the complete opposite to everything that we understand about Western style planes (did you know that there are only two flat surfaces on Japanese iron, the single bevel and the back...everything else is curved slightly) but understanding and using them is ever so slightly addictive 8-[ If you have a look at the selection of up-market planes from Tools from Japan it's easy to see that there's a vast range of planes, many of which are chosen to suit specific timber types. Most are made in very small manufacturing units dotted around Miki city and a lot of the cost is accounted for in the quality of the blade forging...for a top endy blade forged by a master (and better incidentally than anything in the West) expect to pay a very large sum :shock: - Rob

 

[Harbo]

Here's mine hiding behind a small brass and boxwood adjusting hammer I made using a modified ash handle:

Rod

 

[markturner]

Hi Rob, I did send the guy a PM and ask to be included, but have had nothing sent.. perhaps I should check if he has me registered. What did you think of the plane I linked to? Heading over to the site you linked now..Thanks for the input

Cheers, Mark

 

[woodbloke]

Hi Rob, I did send the guy a PM and ask to be included, but have had nothing sent.. perhaps I should check if he has me registered. What did you think of the plane I linked to? Heading over to the site you linked now..Thanks for the input

Cheers, Mark

Mark, first of all, I'm no expert or anything near, but the plane in your linkie is probably a good'un and should be for around 330 euros...what's that?.. about £280ish which is serious money and into firmly the realms of Cliffi's and LN's. I'd be inclined to go for something a little less spendy on the pockets and then have a play around with it, ie learning how to set the blade in the dai (the body) which is not (say again, not) easy) and then actually using the thing...note the grip in my pic, particularly my left hand, where the index finger is hooked under the blade to 'lift' it, while pressing down with the right hand.

Mike is well aware of the interest in the JTSG but has had pressing family commitments which have somewhat stalled the first issue, but never fear, it will be with us in due course - Rob

 

[markturner]

Hi Rob, perhaps you are right, maybe a less expensive starter model to see how I get on. Incidentally, I have been looking at the joints in the Japanese joinery book, if a simple half blind dovetail takes a time to master ( I am still struggling..!) lord knows how long it would take to get proficient at cutting some of those..check out the tongue and groove shoulder mitre joint!!!! - but an interesting challenge, bit like a 3 dimensional suduko puzzle!

I can see the whole field of use and even the understanding of types is a subject all of its own..

cheers, mark

 

[woodbloke]

Hi Rob, perhaps you are right, maybe a less expensive starter model to see how I get on. Incidentally, I have been looking at the joints in the Japanese joinery book, if a simple half blind dovetail takes a time to master ( I am still struggling..!) lord knows how long it would take to get proficient at cutting some of those..check out the tongue and groove shoulder mitre joint!!!! - but an interesting challenge, bit like a 3 dimensional suduko puzzle!

I can see the whole field of use and even the understanding of types is a subject all of its own..

cheers, mark

I have a book on Japanese joinery, some of which is simply mind boggling. In the west we seem to think that mastery of a dovetail joint is the benchmark of good practice and craftsmanship but some of the Japanese constructions make our dovetails look like child's play - Rob

 

[deshi]

This bloke has good prices and service toolsfromjapan

Here's a video to show that using a kanna isn't as hard to setup as people think. I'd post a link but it wont let me. Go to the above site and click on blog and look for the post "Also available in HD"

 

[Richard T]

Roy Underhill talks to John Reed Fox

http://www.pbs.org/woodwrightsshop/video/2600/2608.html