Japanese lacquering (japanning, urushi and makie-e)

[GregShelton]

Hi everyone,

I have been dealing with an unshakeable desire to learn about and try to replicate the use of japanese black 'urushi' lacquer on small decorative objects and the obsession shows no signs of abating in spite of the fact that precious little material seems to be available on the subject. I have been watching numerous videos of Japanese craftspeople at work and reading as much as I can but I think it is fair to say that I will not be able to transfer any of their finely-honed techniques directly to my home workshop. Instead, my goal is to give my best shot at re-creating the look using techniques and materials to me. I am hoping that it will dovetail nicely with my work to learn the processes of finishing and polishing so that I may get a nice, smooth jet-black surface.
I am aware that the technique of 'japanning' comes from the efforts of European craftspeople to replicate Oriental lacquer but not all of the sources are particularly clear (to me) about how to achieve it.

To this end, can anyone advise me on what I should be using as my lacquer and how I should be preparing and building up the support surface to get a nice flat bed?
I would really like to know if I can indeed turn clear finish black with the addition of pigment? Will this work and will I be able to buff it to a nice gloss?

Thank you all!

 

[Phil Pascoe]

You could most probably colour Rustin's Plastic Coating black - they used to make a black (and a white) version.

 

[Rorschach]

I have successfully wet sanded and polished (with compound on a buffing wheel) the clear spray lacquer from Lidl, I seem to recall them selling a black version too, good to try on the cheap. I would assume any hard lacquer could be treated in a similar manner.

Might have a go at that myself next time I see it actually, I like "japanned" objects too.

 

[custard]

For the home workshop you could think about a traditional black piano finish via french polishing. The materials are cheap enough, the basic techniques aren't that tricky to learn, and it would provide months of happy tinkering! What it won't give you though is a surface as robust as true lacquer.

I know several furniture makers who are trying to create sumptuous interiors for cabinets, one of them is aiming for a lacquer like result using pigmented epoxy laid on and through sheets of very fine linen and then model maker's tissue (the stuff that used to be used for model aircraft), followed by endless burnishing. I suspect he's going down a blind alley, getting a bit giddy with the mythology and conflating the longevity of urushi ware with the visual appearance. But if you want to learn more it was a long article on Faux Urushi in the April 2017 edition of Popular Woodworking that got him going.

If you've got spray facilities then you can tap into the huge resources of the automotive industry, who have developed extremely durable finishes with intense depths of colour. After all, finishes that would have appeared virtually supernatural to previous generations are just a bit "so what" in an era of BMW's and iPhones!

 

[ED65]

I would really like to know if I can indeed turn clear finish black with the addition of pigment?

Yup, if you do it with varnish you get enamel. That's what enamel paint is, pigmented varnish.

If you do it with shellac you get old-style piano black. This is basically the same stuff that 78rpm records were made from and if necessary you can make it by dissolving old broken records in an alcohol.

But unless you specifically want to work with black shellac I think this is an area where the DIY route isn't the way to go. Excellent black paints are available in a spraycan from motor factors everywhere, makes sense to take advantage of them for the type of finish you want to end up with.

 

[GregShelton]

Excellent replies, thank you all!

I think that, having considered your advice, I will use black paint for my first tests and projects. I have invested a not inconsiderable sum in quality brushes lately so it would be a shame not to use them. Thank you for all the suggestions regarding spray-ons but can anyone recommend a good brush on paint/lacquer please?
If I am using paint, then do I need to think about getting an appropriate primer too or do I just need to fill the pores like I would when applying a clear varnish?

Thank you.

 

[custard]

Grain filling is determined by the timber more than the process. Oak or Ash then grain filling is a must for a mirror gloss surface. Maple or Beech, probably not.