Interest in the use of Template Guides

[template tom]

It has been some time since I logged on to this site and some of you may recognize the name.
My interest is in the use of the template guides and I was wondering if any others see the advantage of their use.
Tom
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[johnelliott]

I have used template guides but mostly for kitchen worktops etc

One of the major limitations with template guides is the limited range of sizes available - usually 2mm increments. When following a template it would be very useful to be able to perform a light skimming cut after the main work had been done, in order to get a better finish and to remove any steps formed if it had been necessary to make the first cuts in a number of steps, eg with a thick workpiece

For this reason, when I used to make solid electric guitar bodies I made myself an overhead router and had somebody turn me a bunch of metal guide pins. This meant I could use standard 1/2" router cutters and make a final skim by changing to a slightly smaller guide pin. It also meant I could use an exact size template

I tried the link to your website but apparently I'm not authorised to view?

John

 

[Newbie_Neil]

John

When following a template it would be very useful to be able to perform a light skimming cut after the main work had been done, in order to get a better finish and to remove any steps formed if it had been necessary to make the first cuts in a number of steps, eg with a thick workpiece

I have read articles where, Ron Fox, recommended that you make a reverse cut to rectify burn marks etc. he was writing about the router being hand held.

When you have made your final cut, just make the same cut again in reverse. Do not alter anything, just the direction of cut. I know this goes against all of the rules of routing.

It has certainly worked for me by taking out some burn marks on pine.

He couldn't explain why it worked. I assume it would work for stepped cuts.

HTH.

Neil

 

[SketchUp Guru]

I have a set of template guides but don't seem to use them. I discovered that the opening for the guide is not centered perfectly on the bit on either of the two routers that accept them. I also bought a plate from a well known router guy here in the US that he designed and made for one of the routers. It doesn't work any better. I end up using bearing guided bits instead and don't have any trouble with them.

 

[wizer]

I have heard lots of good things about your work Tom and about your website. It has been offline for at least 6months. Do you intend to put it back online? Did you ever publish a book on your work?

 

[johnjin]

Hi Neil
It is standard practice on a conventional milling machine to upcut and then backcut or downcut the finish. This works in the same way for a router as for a conventional mill. If you backcut the main cut on a mill it grabs the part and rips it out of the vice or at the least it will give you a bad finish because of the backlash on the screw. When you take a finish cut you can backcut because you are removing so little material that the cutter can't get a grip on the part to do any damage. The finish will be a lot smoother but you must remember this is only for a finish cut at the same setting or maybe 0.1 m/m. On a CNC m/c there is not a problem with this as they use ballscrews which means there is no backlash in whatever direction you are going in.
Hope this helps

All the best

John

 

[Scrit]

I discovered that the opening for the guide is not centered perfectly on the bit on either of the two routers that accept them.

Dave

Both deWalt and Festool sell centring mandrels for use with their routers. These allow you to centre the guide bush before tightening the screws.

Johnjin

Whilst it is standard practice to cut then back cut in metalworking in woodworking many of the multi-station PTP machines around such as the Morbidellis and Biesses cut by default in the forward direction on the left end of the machine and the backward direction on the right end by simple mirror imaging of the CAM toolpath. This is to allow quick and dirty mirror-imaging of carcass end panels - so you don't get a choice without some nifty programming. For materials such as MDF and MFC this seems to produce a reasonable edge, especially with spiral carbides, etc - it all depends on what you're end finish/machining cost criteria are, I suppose. I tend to do a lot of bull nose (undercut work) so I have tended to hog out on a segmantal TC-RT cutter then finish with the bullnose in a single pass (on MDF). On tough plastics like HDPE, however I'd cut to within 0.3 mm or so of the line then make a second pass, preferably climb milling, to get a good quality machined edge.

John

I still do a fair bit on the pin router so having pairs of guide pins with 1.0mm difference in size can be a godsend. As you say back milling a thin edge won't tend to cause grabbing.

Don't fancy back milling with a hand held router, though, just in case you get a snatch.

Scrit

 

[Newbie_Neil]

Hi John

Thanks for the explanation.

All the best,

Neil

 

[johnelliott]

John

I still do a fair bit on the pin router so having pairs of guide pins with 1.0mm difference in size can be a godsend. As you say back milling a thin edge won't tend to cause grabbing.

Don't fancy back milling with a hand held router, though, just in case you get a snatch.

Scrit

It was Ron Fox (as pointed out by Neil), not me, who suggested the back milling. I personally wouldn't attempt it hand held or overhead router.
John

 

[template tom]

Obviously there are some use of the guides out there but I think most people use a straight cutter ans seldom use a face/edge cutter.

John

Re the limit of sizes available 2mm increments I think that is a good range of templates. I use the 40mm guide on a regular basis and that is the problem of some of the kits available for purchase there is no 40mm guide.

Re getting that final cut perfect. First rout with a smaller cutter then follow with the required cutter to take off the fine cut He presto a nice edge to your work.

Has anyone ever completed a project with the router start to finish after the materials have been cut to length?

I no longer have a web site.(at the moment as I am working on it again) Must wait till I return from R&R at thre end of the month. Also planning a trip back to the old country this year. (Scotland) June July August. Where are the wood shows at that time of the year?
I did have a book published (2 copies) It was done as a gift from one of my ex students lovely leather bound.

I am still working on projects with the use of the template guides need some further instruction on how to post pics on this forum.

Seriously give the template guides atry I have a PDF file on the 'Introduction to Template Guides' available if you wish to email me

Tom

 

[wizer]

Hi Tom

A List of UK WW Show date is listed here:

https://www.ukworkshop.co.uk/forums/viewtopic.php?t=3239

Doesn't look like there is anything in Scotland around that time. Yandles is supposed to be a very good show, but that is not until September and is the polar opposite end of the country :roll:

When I finaly get some sort of workshop space, the router is certainly something I would like to explore more. I have seen some really amazing things done with this versatile tool. Do you have any more examples of your work?

 

[template tom]

Hi Tom

A List of UK WW Show date is listed here:

https://www.ukworkshop.co.uk/forums/viewtopic.php?t=3239

Doesn't look like there is anything in Scotland around that time. Yandles is supposed to be a very good show, but that is not until September and is the polar opposite end of the country :roll:

When I finaly get some sort of workshop space, the router is certainly something I would like to explore more. I have seen some really amazing things done with this versatile tool. Do you have any more examples of your work?

Thanks Tom for the information..... What about round about Cheshire during those dates as I may be down that way during the trip then I could combine both
Tom